Changing rear brakes pads + rotors
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Changing rear brakes pads + rotors
Hey I never changed my brake pads nor my rotors and I'm pretty sure it's time. I heard it's not too hard but I really don't want to mess it up. Could anyone post a few pictures with instructions on how to change rear rotors and brake pads on a ralliart 2006. I saw a thread on changing brake pads but it didn't show how to change rotors. Any help would be great. Thanks
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Hey I never changed my brake pads nor my rotors and I'm pretty sure it's time. I heard it's not too hard but I really don't want to mess it up. Could anyone post a few pictures with instructions on how to change rear rotors and brake pads on a ralliart 2006. I saw a thread on changing brake pads but it didn't show how to change rotors. Any help would be great. Thanks
but seriously, just take the calipers off the knuckle and pull the rotor off...it's the wheels and lug nuts that hold the rotor in place...but the caliper has to come off to romove it in the front, the rear you only need to remove one guide pin/bolt and you can rotate the caliper out of the way and pull the rear rotor off...also when the rear rotor is off, ensure your parking brake parts are in serviceable condition...
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I just did mine. When you pull the sliders out, take the little rubber o'ring off the end of them before you put them back in. They get warm and old and expand after time and can get lodged in the bracket and will fubar your pads and rotors. That's what happened to mine. I bought 4 new pins and left the rubbers. Mitsubishi says they're optional. Just an FYI for anyone doing brakes in the future.
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well if you changed your pads once in a while, you wouldn't need new rotors j/k
but seriously, just take the calipers off the knuckle and pull the rotor off...it's the wheels and lug nuts that hold the rotor in place...but the caliper has to come off to romove it in the front, the rear you only need to remove one guide pin/bolt and you can rotate the caliper out of the way and pull the rear rotor off...also when the rear rotor is off, ensure your parking brake parts are in serviceable condition...
but seriously, just take the calipers off the knuckle and pull the rotor off...it's the wheels and lug nuts that hold the rotor in place...but the caliper has to come off to romove it in the front, the rear you only need to remove one guide pin/bolt and you can rotate the caliper out of the way and pull the rear rotor off...also when the rear rotor is off, ensure your parking brake parts are in serviceable condition...
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depends on the driving conditions, and mileage per time interval, you should inspect your brakes regularly, cause once you start pressing the metal portion of the pad into the rotor you've just annihilated your rotors...i've seen cars that had gone beyond that and the caliper piston makes contact with the rotor...lol, it's quite common, some people just don't know any better...
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Jun 5, 2012 at 08:17 PM.
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depends on the driving conditions, and mileage per time interval, you should inspect your brakes regularly, cause once you start pressing the metal portion of the pad into the rotor you've just annihilated your rotors...i've seen cars that had gone beyond that and the caliper piston makes contact with the rotor...lol, it's quite common, some people just don't know any better...
#7
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^^ive seen it...
brakes on average last ~30-50kmi...ive seen them last longer and seen them less time...ive done brakes at 12kmi...also done for the first time at almost 80kmi...
it all depends on how hard you brake and how often you brake, the material they are, oe or a/m, etc...so make sure you check them periodically for best results...there's way to many variables to say "replace at..." you can only really know by checking(and make sure you check both pads on the calipers...soemtimes one wears a bit more than the other...and its not alsways a sign of issues)
i got my brakes done(by the vw dealer i bought the car from) - all pads, all rotors -the week after i bought the car(they said they did them b4 i bought the car along w/ a bunch of other things...but they didnt do any of it)...it had ~86kmi on it, now it has ~135kmi on it and i still have about half my pads left front and rear...
the only issues ive is i had to machine the rotors twice, because they warped and caused a pulsation and steering wheel to shimmy...(so i suggest get good rotors, doesnt have to be the best you can find...just not dirt cheap, low end ones..they'll last longer before they warp and b4 they need to get replaced from wear), and about a year or 2 ago i had one of my rear caliper slide pins seize up...i took it apart cleaned it, cleaned out all the rust and lubed the $#!t out of it(on both calipers JIC), and now its ok...just make sure you do the same or you may end up revisiting and replacing things before their time...
plus when it's all down for repair...might as well bleed your brakes....when's the last time it got done?...i know my fluid looked like ink it was so dirty...now its nice and clear like it SHOULD look
brakes on average last ~30-50kmi...ive seen them last longer and seen them less time...ive done brakes at 12kmi...also done for the first time at almost 80kmi...
it all depends on how hard you brake and how often you brake, the material they are, oe or a/m, etc...so make sure you check them periodically for best results...there's way to many variables to say "replace at..." you can only really know by checking(and make sure you check both pads on the calipers...soemtimes one wears a bit more than the other...and its not alsways a sign of issues)
i got my brakes done(by the vw dealer i bought the car from) - all pads, all rotors -the week after i bought the car(they said they did them b4 i bought the car along w/ a bunch of other things...but they didnt do any of it)...it had ~86kmi on it, now it has ~135kmi on it and i still have about half my pads left front and rear...
the only issues ive is i had to machine the rotors twice, because they warped and caused a pulsation and steering wheel to shimmy...(so i suggest get good rotors, doesnt have to be the best you can find...just not dirt cheap, low end ones..they'll last longer before they warp and b4 they need to get replaced from wear), and about a year or 2 ago i had one of my rear caliper slide pins seize up...i took it apart cleaned it, cleaned out all the rust and lubed the $#!t out of it(on both calipers JIC), and now its ok...just make sure you do the same or you may end up revisiting and replacing things before their time...
plus when it's all down for repair...might as well bleed your brakes....when's the last time it got done?...i know my fluid looked like ink it was so dirty...now its nice and clear like it SHOULD look
Last edited by nekkidlad; Jun 6, 2012 at 10:00 AM.
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