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I would recommend picking up the ARP studs while you have the motor torn apart. They use to say that the head would lift above 10psi. I could get you some good prices on stuff if you wanted. And if you did want to go with forged internals I could get you some prices from my guy at Manley. They did me a good deal on a full set of rods, pistons, and rings for my block.
But the pistons will be fine even with them having touched the valves. Just clean everything out real good. I've rebuilt and ran 3 motors on different RAs that had the same damage. The valves however, will need to be replaced.
I would recommend picking up the ARP studs while you have the motor torn apart. They use to say that the head would lift above 10psi. I could get you some good prices on stuff if you wanted. And if you did want to go with forged internals I could get you some prices from my guy at Manley. They did me a good deal on a full set of rods, pistons, and rings for my block.
But the pistons will be fine even with them having touched the valves. Just clean everything out real good. I've rebuilt and ran 3 motors on different RAs that had the same damage. The valves however, will need to be replaced.
Thanks for the suggestion and offers, but the car is finished as of today.
I did however get some news on what the probable sequence of events may have been that caused the timing belt (TB) to fail... and it was this: The balance shaft belt (BSB) wasn't replaced with the timing belt, therefore, when the BSB failed, it entangled itself into the TB causing it to break.
Why wasn't the BSB replaced? Well, when I heard my mechanic,Angel, tell me this, I felt guilty.
Here's why:
Back in 2013 when I completed my Turbo build, I drove up to Ottawa Canada. After having had Hackish tune my car, I drove out to San Diego where when my water pump failed, among other things along the way. I had the repairs done at a respectable church members family Auto Shop, and having had never replaced my TB, the recommendation was made, which I obliged to have done. When he told me what the repair cost was going to be, and after getting that sick feeling in my stomach, I asked him if there was any way of bringing the cost down. It was then, after educating me of the importance of each replacement part, and me asking the, "and what if..." questions, that he let me make the decision as to what to not replace. In hindsight he should never even have considered this with the BSB, but since he did, I made the decision not to replace the BSB so, I am to blame.
Last edited by truthdweller; Feb 8, 2017 at 02:43 PM.
OK, now that the timing belt, balance shaft belt and valves have been replaced, I took the car out for a test drive and I'm experiencing another problem. When I drop the transmission down to first gear and at wide open throttle, the engine gets stuck at 6,000 RPMs and won't push through, almost like something's is holding it back or something is too tight. It does the same thing in 2nd gear. When it is WOT in drive it will hang up in first gear at 6k Rpms until I back off the throttle and then it'll shift into second, and get stuck at 6000 RPMs again until I let off the throttle and then it'll shift into 3rd. I dont have to be WOT but just accelerating up to 6,000 RPMs it gets hung up.
So, I took the car home reloaded the current tune, thinking that it might have changed or got corrupted somehow, but that did not solve the problem. Any ideas?
Last edited by truthdweller; Feb 8, 2017 at 06:52 PM.
is that the balance shaft belt that looks ****ty and old? the timing belt doesn't look very old at all...did they replace both when you had it done? cause if the balance shaft belt snapped, and went through the valve timing belt, it would snap for sure...
Is your transmission slipping? that's what it sounds like to me...
is that the balance shaft belt that looks ****ty and old? the timing belt doesn't look very old at all...did they replace both when you had it done? cause if the balance shaft belt snapped, and went through the valve timing belt, it would snap for sure...
Is your transmission slipping? that's what it sounds like to me...
correct, old BSB and newer Timing Belt (2013). No, the BSB wasn't replaced in 2013 (see story).
I'm reading a loss of power under load may be timing is off. I'll have him recheck his work. Until then, it's washed and back in my garage to wait out the possible snow tomorrow. I'll update when I can.
Also, once this all sorted out Gary, shoot me a text or PM when you're available for a team viewer session, I got fastworks up and running on my laptop again...
Also, once this all sorted out Gary, shoot me a text or PM when you're available for a team viewer session, I got fastworks up and running on my laptop again...
Also, I didn't have time to look but my garage floor had pools of radiator fluid on it last night and this morning. From the location of it, I'm guessing the water pump is leaking and or the lower hose to engine connection is leaking. I had a missed call from Angel, from the shop, on my phone after I went to dinner tonight. There was no message, it was after hours and he doesn't call unless he has information so, I'll give him a call tomorrow.
Also, I didn't have time to look but my garage floor had pools of radiator fluid on it last night and this morning. From the location of it, I'm guessing the water pump is leaking and or the lower hose to engine connection is leaking. I had a missed call from Angel, from the shop, on my phone after I went to dinner tonight. There was no message, it was after hours and he doesn't call unless he has information so, I'll give him a call tomorrow.
The Verdict:
Yes, the lower radiator hose was loose, so they solved that leak. As far as the other bigger issue, he rechecked his work and confirmed that the timing was good to go and is concluding that, rather than it being a mechanical issue, that it might be an electrical issue. So he tried to reset the throttle body, without success, with his OBD tool, and is also considering the accelerator. This is above my pay grade so I don't know what to do next.
Hackish says I'd be in limp mode if it's the accelerator or TB assy.
I decided for giggles to clean the MAF sensor and before closing the hood I took one more look in the engine compartment and found this:
THAT'S what that clunking noise was under my car and out the back when I was driving down my brother-in-law's street the other day with my son Jordan! So, after finding a compatible nut and tightening it down, I figured that I should check all the other four nuts...ya think?! Low and behold, every one of them are loose! So, when tightening each of them down, one of the bottom right nuts kept spinning and spinning and spinning, and when I took the nut off, or attempted to take the nut off, this is what I found:
Well, as some of you may recall, that head stud is special order because of the extra length that I needed for the spacer etc. So, when I find the page in my thread that gives me the particulars on where I bought that stud, I will order a few. And when it arrives , I will put this thing back together. What are the chances that the power issues I was having are associated with what I found, hmmmmm (smh)?
Last edited by truthdweller; Feb 17, 2017 at 03:39 PM.
Btw, the manifold was unbolted to remove the head etc.so, I'm going to have to assume that they forgot to tighten all five nuts during reassembly...is that fair?
Btw, the manifold was unbolted to remove the head etc.so, I'm going to have to assume that they forgot to tighten all five nuts during reassembly...is that fair?
I would assume that's exactly what happened.
Every once in a while I pop in and I'm very happy to see this still going. Hope all is well Gary.
Feb 6, 2017, 06:37 AM
