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Hopefully they will without too much grief. But it's rare to find mechanics that have a good relationship with customers anymore.
If he knew you were throwing the code while everything was apart, that's pretty terrible on his part to not ask if you wanted it replaced. Also, if you didn't have the code, prior to the work they did. They should have looked further into why you were having the issue now. A decent mechanic is going to do whatever it takes to get a car running properly.
Hopefully they will without too much grief. But it's rare to find mechanics that have a good relationship with customers anymore.
If he knew you were throwing the code while everything was apart, that's pretty terrible on his part to not ask if you wanted it replaced. Also, if you didn't have the code, prior to the work they did. They should have looked further into why you were having the issue now. A decent mechanic is going to do whatever it takes to get a car running properly.
Unfortunately, I'm friends with the guy, and now, something like this is causing that uncomfortable seperation between us.
He showed me that the codes, P0131, & P0335, popped on startup after reassembly from checking the timing belt job. These two codes have popped in the past (summer 2016?) which I cleared and haven't returned until now. He checked both sensors which he said he could see responding appropriately with his diagnostic equipment. These codes are not appearing when WOT at 5000-6000 rpms. The only code that has appeared under these conditions is P0300 (multi-cylinder misfire).
I left the shop with my car, frustrated, and recontacted my POC to reserve a spot on the dyno...Smh.
The black box on the side of the throttle body is the throttle position sensor or the accelerator pedal position sensor? If its the APP, wheres the TPS, and vice versa? Anyone have a link or video that shows how to test both of these with a multimeter?
Last edited by truthdweller; Mar 16, 2017 at 07:49 PM.
I noted my oil light started coming on, when I was idling rough, and that the RPM's were dropping low near the 500-600 rpm range. I got out, popped the hood, and noted the oil dipstick was starting to creep out of its tube creating a vacuum leak. So, after reseating it, the idle corrected itself and became smooth again. This starting reoccurring and every time I found the oil dipstick creeping its way out of its tube. So, I went to Ace Hardware and picked up a small o-ring that fits below the plastic handle of the dipstick, deducting that the o-ring was (13) years old and hasn't been replaced. Well, this didn't correct the problem...imagine that.
Well, it got me thinking, as I'm sure it has you thinking right now, as to what else could cause the oil dipstick to come out of it's tube. I found online people mentioning that too much oil could cause too much pressure, but my oil level is just fine so my mind kept brainstorming. When I had my car in the garage and I was under the hood with the engine running, I manually accelerated to high RPMs, maxing out the rev limiter at 7200. Somewhere between 5K and 7 k, I watched the oil dipstick work its way out of its tube! Hmmmm...
Recalling though that I am unable to get past 5500 RPM when the engine is WOT, and then finding the dipstick out of it's tube afterwards as well, it made me think that there is back pressure in the engine case while under that load. What could be causing this? I have said before to the last mechanic, an old-timer, that it feels like the throttle plate is not opening all the way and that the air is having difficulty getting past it. He agreed that this could be causing the symptoms and recommended that I clean the throttle body real well and go from there, hence the pictures above. Now THIS would cause back pressure wouldn't it?!
Not being able to get past a certain RPM, transmission not shifting, loss of power, horrible gas mileage, I'm reading, are all symptoms of a bad TPS!!! "Dang it Jim!" PLEASE let this be my problem!!!
Last edited by truthdweller; Mar 16, 2017 at 07:50 PM.
If you have a bad PCV valve, it will push your dipstick out because of too much pressure
Man, im all over the place with this problem! I just spoke to Michael Richards and he's saying it sounds like I have a blow by problem, possibly bad piston or rings. But I cringe every time somebody mentions something that should have been checked along with the valve job, etcetera! I was just going to respond back to him and ask, is there anything less invasive that could cause the dipstick to blow out and then I read your message. Thank God for you because you already mentioned the PCV valve and I heard it but I didn't listen, and or forgot about it. The PCV valve is definitely less invasive and cheaper than pistons and rings so I'm going to rule that out, thank you again.
Mar 3, 2017, 06:50 PM
