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building a 4G69

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Old Jun 30, 2014, 06:17 PM
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building a 4G69

Hello

I need some advice. I am thinking of building a 4G69 for my 5G Mirage hatchback, but i am not sure if i have to upgrade the internals. Would you guys have any advice to offer?

What does a 4G69 need to reliably run 200hp (at the crank)? So in theory with a 20% power loss in transmission, we are looking at 160hp at the wheels, yes?

I would probably be running a standalone, prolly a Haltech PS1000. Do i need forged internals? Pistons, conrods and crank? Also, while i am at it, i understand no aftermarket solution exist for valve springs(or is there now?). What about other aspects of the valvetrain?

I have failed to find any build threads that list parts used. Would be nice if someone can point me in the right direction, thanks.

EDIT: I have been looking at the Manley PDF catalog, and boy does it confuse me so.

Last edited by Samurai Blues; Jul 1, 2014 at 11:52 AM.
Old Jul 1, 2014, 01:35 PM
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I'm probably pushing at least 300hp at the crank, with a stock block...if your goal is 250whp or less, building a block would be a waste of money, though it does future proof the motor if you decide you want 300+hp with peace of mind.
Old Jul 1, 2014, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
I'm probably pushing at least 300hp at the crank, with a stock block...if your goal is 250whp or less, building a block would be a waste of money, though it does future proof the motor if you decide you want 300+hp with peace of mind.
wow 300hp sounds like a fair bit of abuse for a stock block! thanks for the heads up; very educational.
Old Jul 1, 2014, 09:00 PM
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so far so good...with ECU tuning, it's a lot safer to push the boundries. mine made 216 wheel hp on a mustang dyno running 6.5psi boost...I now run 12psi daily, on 94 octane pump gas.


it's not completely stock, I have ARP head studs, to keep my head on tight but that's it. If I were to do it again, I would have went with a thicker head gasket to lower the compression ratio a little bit. IF you're going all motor, you'll want a higher compression ratio.
Old Jul 1, 2014, 09:12 PM
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4g69 are not very good compared to other mitsu blocks. 4g69 has the same deck height as the 4g63 is bored out to 87mm from the factory leaving little meat between cylinders. I had one sonic tested and there were lots of imperfections in the metal. I decided not to use it.
Old Jul 1, 2014, 11:12 PM
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800hp has been made with this block...
Old Jul 2, 2014, 05:54 AM
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That same 800hp block was also bored making the cylinder walls even thinner than stock...
Old Jul 2, 2014, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
so far so good...with ECU tuning, it's a lot safer to push the boundries. mine made 216 wheel hp on a mustang dyno running 6.5psi boost...I now run 12psi daily, on 94 octane pump gas.


it's not completely stock, I have ARP head studs, to keep my head on tight but that's it. If I were to do it again, I would have went with a thicker head gasket to lower the compression ratio a little bit. IF you're going all motor, you'll want a higher compression ratio.
Thats what i was thinking as well. But i dun think i want to go any more than 250hp. Its a 5G hatchback and probably only around 1000kg and i insist on sticking with 15" wheels. How much do you think a stock block can muster with a standalone and intake/exhaust mods?

I see that aftermarket pistons have a CR rating. Manley has pistons to a 10.5CR. What is okay for a reliable all motor build? Where i am from, stuffing a 4G69 in a Mirage / Lancer platform is unheard of. I would probably be the first.

I see you are running aftermarket axles. Why?
Old Jul 2, 2014, 05:00 PM
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I am not sure what TQ i am running now but it is definitely more the the original 257TQ been 4 years now 0 issues with the block.
Old Jul 2, 2014, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Samurai Blues
Thats what i was thinking as well. But i dun think i want to go any more than 250hp. Its a 5G hatchback and probably only around 1000kg and i insist on sticking with 15" wheels. How much do you think a stock block can muster with a standalone and intake/exhaust mods?

I see that aftermarket pistons have a CR rating. Manley has pistons to a 10.5CR. What is okay for a reliable all motor build? Where i am from, stuffing a 4G69 in a Mirage / Lancer platform is unheard of. I would probably be the first.

I see you are running aftermarket axles. Why?

with just intake, exhaust and tuning...I don't think the stock motor would put out 200whp...might be able to get 180 with high octane fuel and aggressive tuning. to make significant power without forced induction requires high compression. In my opinion, turbo charging is far more cost effective, and will yield more power.
Old Jul 3, 2014, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by OttRalliart05
I am not sure what TQ i am running now but it is definitely more the the original 257TQ been 4 years now 0 issues with the block.
TQ?? whats TQ...

Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
with just intake, exhaust and tuning...I don't think the stock motor would put out 200whp...might be able to get 180 with high octane fuel and aggressive tuning. to make significant power without forced induction requires high compression. In my opinion, turbo charging is far more cost effective, and will yield more power.
We do have 98 octane gas which is what i am pumping all the time. what is considered high? Factoring reliability in, is 10.5CR too much? I was thinking of an 88mm stroke Evo crank and maybe wif 87 or 88mm pistons. Wow. Super rev machine. I wonder if anyone has tried that already? heh. Would i have to get a 12,000RPM tacho like Takumi's Ae86
Old Jul 3, 2014, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Samurai Blues
We do have 98 octane gas which is what i am pumping all the time. what is considered high? Factoring reliability in, is 10.5CR too much? I was thinking of an 88mm stroke Evo crank and maybe wif 87 or 88mm pistons. Wow. Super rev machine. I wonder if anyone has tried that already? heh. Would i have to get a 12,000RPM tacho like Takumi's Ae86
LOL Ive thought about a similar setup to that. ProjectzeroG claims that switching the crank in a 4g69 and 4g64 with the 88mm crank from an evo will let it rev up to 11,000rpm. I would love to see someone pull that off!

i dont think the factory ECU would let you rev that high even tuned. so some kind of stand alone would be necessary i would bet.

Last edited by bakuro117; Jul 3, 2014 at 10:45 AM.
Old Jul 3, 2014, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Samurai Blues
TQ?? whats TQ...
torque

Originally Posted by Samurai Blues
We do have 98 octane gas which is what i am pumping all the time. what is considered high? Factoring reliability in, is 10.5CR too much? I was thinking of an 88mm stroke Evo crank and maybe wif 87 or 88mm pistons. Wow. Super rev machine. I wonder if anyone has tried that already? heh. Would i have to get a 12,000RPM tacho like Takumi's Ae86
unless you're tuned for that kind of fuel, you're wasting your money. 10.5:1 would be fine, you could probably go 11 or 11.5 if you have access to high octane fuel. If you're building a high compression motor, or a stronger motor for boost, you can pretty much stop thinking about reliability...

Originally Posted by bakuro117
LOL Ive thought about a similar setup to that. ProjectzeroG claims that switching the crank in a 4g69 and 4g64 with the 88mm crank from an evo will let it rev up to 11,000rpm. I would love to see someone pull that off!

i dont think the factory ECU would let you rev that high even tuned. so some kind of stand alone would be necessary i would bet.
Not sure if there is any limit to that...

Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Jul 3, 2014 at 12:58 PM.
Old Jul 3, 2014, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
Not sure if there is any limit to that...
Id heard the stock ECU couldnt go over like 9000rpm or something like that. I'll have to look into it again.
Old Jul 3, 2014, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bakuro117
Id heard the stock ECU couldnt go over like 9000rpm or something like that. I'll have to look into it again.
i'm not sure myself, i just assumed you could make it whatever you want, as long as the sensor would read it.


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