cel code 44
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cel code 44
sorry i know this isnt my place but i tried posting it up on es,ls, oz forum but no reply for a few days now.
car use to die out after i push down on throttle and i would get cel codes for the maf and a code 44 which in my case is suppose to be ignition signal failure 1 i think. so i replace all the coils and maf, i didnt get a maf code anymore but still car would die on me after a strong throttle and the code would still be 44. i researched about it here nut for some odd reason my search terms are only going for cel code not cel code 44. it says to many search terms for the word 44. anyways i googled it anyways and im getting different sayings on this. people would sAy that the car would die after throttling it wiuld be the maf but i just changed that and im not getting a code for that. i replaced all the coils but i still have a code 44 showing. so i dont know what to do next. any help on whats next thing i should do.
p.s. after putting the replacement parts the car needs to crank twice for it to start up and it would start quickly before it would take awhile to start up but it does that in the first crank. people say it has something to do with the fuel system o spark plugs.... could this be the same reason why its deing mon me
car use to die out after i push down on throttle and i would get cel codes for the maf and a code 44 which in my case is suppose to be ignition signal failure 1 i think. so i replace all the coils and maf, i didnt get a maf code anymore but still car would die on me after a strong throttle and the code would still be 44. i researched about it here nut for some odd reason my search terms are only going for cel code not cel code 44. it says to many search terms for the word 44. anyways i googled it anyways and im getting different sayings on this. people would sAy that the car would die after throttling it wiuld be the maf but i just changed that and im not getting a code for that. i replaced all the coils but i still have a code 44 showing. so i dont know what to do next. any help on whats next thing i should do.
p.s. after putting the replacement parts the car needs to crank twice for it to start up and it would start quickly before it would take awhile to start up but it does that in the first crank. people say it has something to do with the fuel system o spark plugs.... could this be the same reason why its deing mon me
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Well I'm not entirely sure what could be causing the issue, but is the code P0044 and not just 44? I couldn't find any information on just 44.
http://nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/...itsubishi.html This link tells you what the P0044 code is, if that is the code you are getting. Which if this is failing that could possibly cause an issue, since the sensor isn't giving off correct AFR readings to the ECU.
That's just my theory and I could be wrong...
http://nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/...itsubishi.html This link tells you what the P0044 code is, if that is the code you are getting. Which if this is failing that could possibly cause an issue, since the sensor isn't giving off correct AFR readings to the ECU.
That's just my theory and I could be wrong...
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Well I'm not entirely sure what could be causing the issue, but is the code P0044 and not just 44? I couldn't find any information on just 44.
http://nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/...itsubishi.html This link tells you what the P0044 code is, if that is the code you are getting. Which if this is failing that could possibly cause an issue, since the sensor isn't giving off correct AFR readings to the ECU.
That's just my theory and I could be wrong...
http://nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/...itsubishi.html This link tells you what the P0044 code is, if that is the code you are getting. Which if this is failing that could possibly cause an issue, since the sensor isn't giving off correct AFR readings to the ECU.
That's just my theory and I could be wrong...
I'll give it a check in the morning and see if there is anything noticeable.
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I'm not sure what it means but that's what some people say.... i was only doing a general search on the issue not specific to my car. Here's the link of the thread I found it mentioning it. http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217039
I can only say that if no matter which coil I use my car dies after throttling it hard buy the only code I get is a 44 for an ignition signal failure.... and i just dont know what else to do about
#6
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The maf sensor you put on was a used sensor that you got off a car in the junk yard it is possible that it works better than the one you had before but is still defective.. Are you sure you are plugging it into the right connector there is two under our RAs one for ecu (i think) and one for obd2
Take a picture of your car and post it.. Badges and all
Take a picture of your car and post it.. Badges and all
#7
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The maf sensor you put on was a used sensor that you got off a car in the junk yard it is possible that it works better than the one you had before but is still defective.. Are you sure you are plugging it into the right connector there is two under our RAs one for ecu (i think) and one for obd2
Take a picture of your car and post it.. Badges and all
Take a picture of your car and post it.. Badges and all
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Here are a few quick shots, I'll try to get better shots when the sun goes down a bit it's pretty hot outside at the moment. The company tells me it's a ralliart from the Vin but on the registrations it says 4g94 engine.
Regarding the maf, u can tell if it's defective or not cause when I can plug it in really tight and it works but when u play with plug I can hear the engine sound changing so I can tell if it's the maf, maf pins or plug. I got some cheap coils of eBay to replace the old ones but car takes 2 cranks to start. But when it does it starts right up faster than the previous coils. I'm not getting any error codes than that 44 and my car does die out still when I throttle it. Weird thing is it only dies when I'm driving it not if I'm on idle.
Regarding the maf, u can tell if it's defective or not cause when I can plug it in really tight and it works but when u play with plug I can hear the engine sound changing so I can tell if it's the maf, maf pins or plug. I got some cheap coils of eBay to replace the old ones but car takes 2 cranks to start. But when it does it starts right up faster than the previous coils. I'm not getting any error codes than that 44 and my car does die out still when I throttle it. Weird thing is it only dies when I'm driving it not if I'm on idle.
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WEIRD! It's an 06 Ralliart body, but has 2.0L 4G94 and 4 bolt hubs, and no strut brace...what does the interior look like? does it have a rear sway bar?
back on topic, when you say the car dies when you step on it, do you mean it the engine shuts off, or it just becomes very weak and unresponsive?
back on topic, when you say the car dies when you step on it, do you mean it the engine shuts off, or it just becomes very weak and unresponsive?
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; May 17, 2013 at 05:15 AM.
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WEIRD! It's an 06 Ralliart body, but has 2.0L 4G94 and 4 bolt hubs, and no strut brace...what does the interior look like? does it have a rear sway bar?
back on topic, when you say the car dies when you step on it, do you mean it the engine shuts off, or it just becomes very weak and unresponsive?
back on topic, when you say the car dies when you step on it, do you mean it the engine shuts off, or it just becomes very weak and unresponsive?
No the engine just shuts off, I would need to place the car on neutral and quickly switch the ignition off and on to get back up. But this only happens when u throttle it but if I drive slowly and push the pedal half way only it seems to be fine.
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That works, but you could always try unplugging it directly. This might sound weird, but I had an issue when I had my ECU flashed. It caused this weird surge and lost power during Mivec. After unplugging it directly and then plugging it back in, the issue was resolved. This was after doing a battery pull several times with no resolution.