Buying A 2010 Ralliart Sportback
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Buying A 2010 Ralliart Sportback
Greetings,
I wanted to post this thread to introduce myself to the RalliArt community here and to talk about the car I am about to buy in a couple weeks. Clubralliart seems to be a pretty dead forum as nobody replies to anything anymore. My name is Aaron, I live in the colorful state of Colorado, and I plan to commute around in this 2010 Lancer RalliArt that I came across. My weekend driver is a true 1999 3000GT VR-4 with only 43,000 miles on it. It is a true gem... Well to me it is.
The RalliArt I found is a Graphite Grey Sportback with about 86,500 miles on it. I have gotten the offer down to $9000 which I think is a great deal. It is in great condition inside and out, though, it doesn't have the goodies such as heated leather seats or a Rockford Fosgate system... Oh well, I guess I could always pay to get that stuff put in. I test drove the car and noticed that upon initial acceleration, the transmission had very minor studder only sometimes. The rest of the gears are all smooth as butter after that. That is how I convinced the sale to go to $9000. I have already talked with Jacks Transmissions here in CO springs and know what the costs could be. I figure that at $9000 for the car to begin with, worse case scenario, Jack rebuilds it and I spend what most people do anyway, except it will be a re-built transmission versus one that could have issues at any time.
My plan is to start small. I already suggested that the owner gets the transmission update flashed to the car. Apparently that helped it out a lot. It still has a small amount of studder still. What I will do next is have the transmission fluid/filter changed. With luck, maybe that will solve the issue. Then comes the expensive parts. The rebuild could be anywhere from $1000 to $4000 depending on what's wrong according to Jacks Transmission. Beats having Mitsubishi charge $18,000+ to do a full replacement (that is a real quote). Anyway, that's the situation right now. If anyone has any newbie advice that they think I haven't stumbled across on the forums, let me know. But I have done tons of research on this car.
Hope to hear from you guys!!!!
-Aaron
I wanted to post this thread to introduce myself to the RalliArt community here and to talk about the car I am about to buy in a couple weeks. Clubralliart seems to be a pretty dead forum as nobody replies to anything anymore. My name is Aaron, I live in the colorful state of Colorado, and I plan to commute around in this 2010 Lancer RalliArt that I came across. My weekend driver is a true 1999 3000GT VR-4 with only 43,000 miles on it. It is a true gem... Well to me it is.
The RalliArt I found is a Graphite Grey Sportback with about 86,500 miles on it. I have gotten the offer down to $9000 which I think is a great deal. It is in great condition inside and out, though, it doesn't have the goodies such as heated leather seats or a Rockford Fosgate system... Oh well, I guess I could always pay to get that stuff put in. I test drove the car and noticed that upon initial acceleration, the transmission had very minor studder only sometimes. The rest of the gears are all smooth as butter after that. That is how I convinced the sale to go to $9000. I have already talked with Jacks Transmissions here in CO springs and know what the costs could be. I figure that at $9000 for the car to begin with, worse case scenario, Jack rebuilds it and I spend what most people do anyway, except it will be a re-built transmission versus one that could have issues at any time.
My plan is to start small. I already suggested that the owner gets the transmission update flashed to the car. Apparently that helped it out a lot. It still has a small amount of studder still. What I will do next is have the transmission fluid/filter changed. With luck, maybe that will solve the issue. Then comes the expensive parts. The rebuild could be anywhere from $1000 to $4000 depending on what's wrong according to Jacks Transmission. Beats having Mitsubishi charge $18,000+ to do a full replacement (that is a real quote). Anyway, that's the situation right now. If anyone has any newbie advice that they think I haven't stumbled across on the forums, let me know. But I have done tons of research on this car.
Hope to hear from you guys!!!!
-Aaron
#2
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (8)
I wouldn't go to Jacks for the SST rebuild. Use Kozmic for any SST work.
Congrats on the car. I loved my 2010 RA Sportback: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...sportback.html
Congrats on the car. I loved my 2010 RA Sportback: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...sportback.html
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
I wouldn't go to Jacks for the SST rebuild. Use Kozmic for any SST work.
Congrats on the car. I loved my 2010 RA Sportback: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...sportback.html
Congrats on the car. I loved my 2010 RA Sportback: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...sportback.html
That is a nice looking car with decent numbers too. Why don't you like Jacks? I have never heard anything bad about them and I have owned the Stealth/3000GT platform for the last 10 years. He is pretty much the Go-To guy for the community. Plus I don't want to spend hundreds shipping the transmission around. Or deal with the juggling paying a shop to take it out, sending it, getting it repaired at and out of state shop, shipping it back, and having the other shop install it again. I can just drive it to Jacks and pick it up when he is done.
#4
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
And remember, it is a manual without a clutch pedal - so expect some slight herky/jerky between the 1/2 shift or down from 2 to 1...
I would also do the free GST basemap mod before pulling the tranny. It also helps tranny smoothness and performance.
Drive another RA just to have a baseline to compare against the one you are contemplating.
I would also do the free GST basemap mod before pulling the tranny. It also helps tranny smoothness and performance.
Drive another RA just to have a baseline to compare against the one you are contemplating.
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
And remember, it is a manual without a clutch pedal - so expect some slight herky/jerky between the 1/2 shift or down from 2 to 1...
I would also do the free GST basemap mod before pulling the tranny. It also helps tranny smoothness and performance.
Drive another RA just to have a baseline to compare against the one you are contemplating.
I would also do the free GST basemap mod before pulling the tranny. It also helps tranny smoothness and performance.
Drive another RA just to have a baseline to compare against the one you are contemplating.
We got the basemap installed which helped for sure. Everything feels relatively smooth aside from initial take of under normal driving conditions. I am thinking that changing the transmission oil and filter will help. I have read that a lot of people have had success using Pentosin FFL-2 Synthetic Double Clutch (DSG) Transmission Fluid versus the Diaqueen stuff. Hopefully that is true because it makes the oil change way more affordable. I was also looking for more affordable filters to choose from. I have to imagine that there is a good non OEM paper TC-SST filter out there. I found an ebay one, but am a little skeptical as to how well it will work. It is this one here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ralliart-Evo...-/200852486935
Even so, I have found a place that sells OEM ones for $79.99 which is way better than what Mitsubishi charges me. If I could use the ebay oil filter Pentosin FFL-2, the change would only cost me about $208. Versus going with the Diaqueen and OEM oil filter which would be around $400-450!!!
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#8
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
#9
Newbie
Thread Starter
Thank you for the quick reply. So I was looking at that SSP stainless steel filter and was a little concerned about the smaller particles that it won't filter that a paper one would. At least that is what I read that on the forum in some places. It was forum talk and may not have been fact. Anyway, say I get this filter, it is a drop in replacement, and when I change the oil in the future, do I "rinse" this SSP filter with degreaser or something? I have read about the recommended 30000 mile fluid flush increment for the TC-SST. That is exactly why I am doing the service when I get the car. The owner doesn't know when it was done last as he has only had the car a year and didn't get maintenance records from the dealer. So I figure I will just be safe and do it. Thanks again for the help!
#10
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Thank you for the quick reply. So I was looking at that SSP stainless steel filter and was a little concerned about the smaller particles that it won't filter that a paper one would. At least that is what I read that on the forum in some places. It was forum talk and may not have been fact. Anyway, say I get this filter, it is a drop in replacement, and when I change the oil in the future, do I "rinse" this SSP filter with degreaser or something? I have read about the recommended 30000 mile fluid flush increment for the TC-SST. That is exactly why I am doing the service when I get the car. The owner doesn't know when it was done last as he has only had the car a year and didn't get maintenance records from the dealer. So I figure I will just be safe and do it. Thanks again for the help!
As for the smaller particles...magnetic drain plug
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#13
Newbie
Thread Starter
I am in Castle Rock CO, about 45 min north of CO springs. I am actually picking up my Ralliart tomorrow morning in Colorado Springs. What are you moving here for?
#15
I wouldn't go to Jacks for the SST rebuild. Use Kozmic for any SST work.
Congrats on the car. I loved my 2010 RA Sportback: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...sportback.html
Congrats on the car. I loved my 2010 RA Sportback: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...sportback.html
That is a nice looking car with decent numbers too. Why don't you like Jacks? I have never heard anything bad about them and I have owned the Stealth/3000GT platform for the last 10 years. He is pretty much the Go-To guy for the community. Plus I don't want to spend hundreds shipping the transmission around. Or deal with the juggling paying a shop to take it out, sending it, getting it repaired at and out of state shop, shipping it back, and having the other shop install it again. I can just drive it to Jacks and pick it up when he is done.
What is going to be important is making sure you have someone that knows how to adjust the clutch pressure tune the car afterwards. A lot of the SST horror stories I have heard and read about are when guys tune the ECU but neglect tuning the TCU.