TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

ok I am trying to figure out my options for tires... my Sumitomos obviously cant hold my launches. I get low to mid 1.7s consistantly while spinning the hell out of the tires. So, it leaves me with two choices... the drag radials or "dot" slicks. With the slicks I would need smaller rims, smaller brakes, the rubber and the tubes. With the drag radials I just slap the tires on my stock rims and go. My question is what type of 60' difference between the two and also how much better would the slicks be vs the drag radials for my drivetrain? I know street tires are the worst for the drivetrain but between drag radials and slicks i dont really know. I think slicks Id run around 7psi vs the drag radials in the 15psi range? I just dont feel like destroying my drivetrain but I also need to find some way to get the car to hook at least a little bit better. This 1.7 crap is really bothering me tremendously.

DragNRacing

iTrader: (1)

I think the Hoosier DOT Drag Radial would be a good choice for you in the 275/40-17 if you want to stick with a DOT tire...

https://www.hoosiertire.com/specdrag...0Drag%20Radial

You could keep your brakes. You will need different springs or coilovers, small spacers and the right rim offset but guys are running that size in Solo2/AutoX. Light weight rims are going to be more expensive though. The tires only way 21lbs so they will keep rotating mass weight down. When I was running the BFG Drag Radials on my Vette, I ran 12 - 13psi. I never had problems with the tire spinning on the rim. I did have driveline problems though. I snapped the rear spindle clean off and bent the rear trailing arm but hey I go the front wheels of the ground

yelo3

I have done a 1.48 60 foot on BFG drag radials on my evo

TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

Well I was really thinking between the BFG Drag Radials on stock rims or different 16" rims with Hoosier tube tires (Slicks or "DOT" Slicks) not the radials. Im just trying to figure out if the tube tires will cause less drivetrain shock than the radials. I really would like to get in the high 1.5s but dont want to destroy too much either... perhaps not possible but it seems most people grenade thier TCase from wheelhop... obviously my car doesnt have wheelhop., they just spin The front diff I dont know if people trash it from power or hop. Ive looked at both the gears and both look like crap... thats powder metal stuff doesnt give me much faith but the pricetag of something better doesnt look to nice either.

DragNRacing

iTrader: (1)

As you start adding more traction you will be more prone to wheel hop up front with the BFG's. The slicks with the tubes and full wrinkle wall sidewalls will be the easiest on the drive train and the least prone to wheel hop based on what I have observed on video and first hand at the track. You will have to watch for them spinning on the rim though. Use shoe polish to mark the tire with a spot on the rim and watch for any movement. If there is movement, you would have to secure them to the rim. BFG's have the wrinkle but the sidewall is still quite a bit stiffer than a slick. I had wheel hop in my vette with BFG's a couple of times but not often. That was with the 8" wide near OEM size. Once I switched to the 10", I don't remember having any wheel hop but they also hooked so hard I broke/bent rear drivetrain/suspension components. The softer the sidewall the less shock to the drivetrain.

NTHECRUX

iTrader: (11)

I am kinda in the same boat I have been trying to decide wich DR's to run this year.I dont have quiet as much power but the Sumitomo's are cutting it. Not trying to hijack this thread but have you tried anything other than the bfg DR's (nitto or maybe even et streets) Slicks seem a little over kill for my car but if they will save the drivtrain it's worth looking into. Thanks

houdni

might want to try mickey thompson drag radials. normally to get good traction with drag radials, you usually have to heat them up with a very hefty burnout.

streetturbo

Does anyone know where to get BFGoodrich G-Force T/A Drag Radial Tires in Los Angeles?

Thanks

CBRE

iTrader: (77)

Tire Rack has the BFG's, they work great in 17".

TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

Well I guess I will give the BFGs a shot this year and see what happens. Maybe Ill get into the high 1.5s without grenading my drivetrain... just out of curiousity, would changing the suspension honestly give me much better traction or not really.. I can make it have more power but hooking it up I never really tried to do but now it seems I need to.

eve-slow

iTrader: (68)

Well for all the power you have the sumitumos obviously arent working well. The BFG's are an amazing tire and would increase your traction tremendously.

As far as suspension goes, you could get better traction but the last link to the ground (sumi's) are going to hold you back. Before going all out and getting some crazy penske setup try the new tires and get some stiff bushings that will help minimize wheel hop, and if you don't have a solid motor mount yet, think about it.

-Boltz.

TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

Well the Sumis are going bye bye... Ill get the BFGs but since its winter I was thinking maybe to get some sort of a suspension but I dunno if its worth it. Costs SO much and doesnt seem like it would do that much... help from the front end lifting so high but I dont think it would do enough to justify the price. Id rather get carbon doors and shave off almost 200lbs.

I still dont think I will get any wheelhop... I honestly think they will still spin... just a whole lot less The motor mount thing is in the air.... rattling all my bolts loose sucks and the vibration in the car wont be nice (Granted nothing is that nice about that bastard anyways but i do still drive it around town). Ill have to see how it shifts at 8.5 grand or so... if there are problems Ill swap em out... if it shifts fine Ill leave the stockers.

DragNRacing

iTrader: (1)

I think a detachable wheely bar would do you more good then suspension. You could detach it for driving on the street. One thing to keep in mind with the BFG's on the street is that you will lose pretty much all handling due to the soft/wrinkle sidewall. After you heat up the BFG's and drop them to 13lbs, I don't think you will be spinning a whole bunch and if you do, you can still get wheel hop as the tires start to grab. I got wheel hop a few times last year in my EVO after breaking loose initially. When they started to grab about 3/4's of the way through first, they hopped a few times. I'm hoping the motor mounts are going to help and I'm sure I will be over powering my PS2's all the way through first this year too.

TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

You mean preloaded wheelie bars or non-preloaded? I dont want to make my car seem that much of a drag car now If I do that I my as well use full slicks and slap a chute on it for show Just tell everyone I am running it at half boost at practice runs

DragNRacing

iTrader: (1)

lol...I was thinking non-preloaded. Most competitions from what I have read will not allow preloaded and they would probably be more beneficial for FWD cars anyhow. I was seriously considering it on my GSX to prevent wheel hop and equalize weight transfer. I was only running 11.4's, lol. I was getting low 1.6 60's with a best of 1.59 on Azenis 215 205/55-16 tires. I tried using the AGX shocks on the stiffest setting with stock springs but when launching I crushed them and that probably made things worse as far as wheel hop goes. Suspensions can be a real b*tch to try to adjust for proper weight transfer and a bar should be more dial in and forget about it. The cage should also help.

PS. Might as well get the GT45R now then you can justify the slicks and chute too