Car sputters when cold?
#1
Car sputters when cold?
I've been noticing my car sputtering and making zero power when it is cold.
At this time I am not in boost and at maybe 5-10% throttle. It usually goes something like this:
Start car, pull out of garage, roll down driveway in 1st gear, pull out on to the street. Give it some throttle to accelerate and when the car reaches ~1500 RPM it just stumbles and sputters. It sounds like the hi boost Evos that break up top on stock ignition, but obviously I'm at 0 boost and just above idle for RPM.
Due to this sputtering, I end up shifting to 2nd, where it sputters again for a few seconds. By this time, I've reached a stop sign at the end of my street. When I accelerate away from this stop sign, these symptoms are gone
It only happens the first 20-30 seconds of starting the car...it is a minor annoyance but I want to make sure I'm not damaging/have damaged something.
At this time I am not in boost and at maybe 5-10% throttle. It usually goes something like this:
Start car, pull out of garage, roll down driveway in 1st gear, pull out on to the street. Give it some throttle to accelerate and when the car reaches ~1500 RPM it just stumbles and sputters. It sounds like the hi boost Evos that break up top on stock ignition, but obviously I'm at 0 boost and just above idle for RPM.
Due to this sputtering, I end up shifting to 2nd, where it sputters again for a few seconds. By this time, I've reached a stop sign at the end of my street. When I accelerate away from this stop sign, these symptoms are gone
It only happens the first 20-30 seconds of starting the car...it is a minor annoyance but I want to make sure I'm not damaging/have damaged something.
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#8
Evolving Member
iTrader: (43)
I've been noticing my car sputtering and making zero power when it is cold.
At this time I am not in boost and at maybe 5-10% throttle. It usually goes something like this:
Start car, pull out of garage, roll down driveway in 1st gear, pull out on to the street. Give it some throttle to accelerate and when the car reaches ~1500 RPM it just stumbles and sputters. It sounds like the hi boost Evos that break up top on stock ignition, but obviously I'm at 0 boost and just above idle for RPM.
Due to this sputtering, I end up shifting to 2nd, where it sputters again for a few seconds. By this time, I've reached a stop sign at the end of my street. When I accelerate away from this stop sign, these symptoms are gone
It only happens the first 20-30 seconds of starting the car...it is a minor annoyance but I want to make sure I'm not damaging/have damaged something.
At this time I am not in boost and at maybe 5-10% throttle. It usually goes something like this:
Start car, pull out of garage, roll down driveway in 1st gear, pull out on to the street. Give it some throttle to accelerate and when the car reaches ~1500 RPM it just stumbles and sputters. It sounds like the hi boost Evos that break up top on stock ignition, but obviously I'm at 0 boost and just above idle for RPM.
Due to this sputtering, I end up shifting to 2nd, where it sputters again for a few seconds. By this time, I've reached a stop sign at the end of my street. When I accelerate away from this stop sign, these symptoms are gone
It only happens the first 20-30 seconds of starting the car...it is a minor annoyance but I want to make sure I'm not damaging/have damaged something.
Not trying to jack your thread, but I have a very similar problem and some info to add.
First of all, I do let me car warm up, so that is not the issue. I can let it sit there for 5 minutes if I want and it will still do this same thing. It happens after the car has been sitting for an extended period of time (overnight or when I get in after work), but the rest of the time it's fine.
I have an XD-16 A/F gauge so I see what is happening, but I have no idea why...it goes extremely lean for those first 20-30 seconds of driving if you try to just give very light throttle...into the 18:1 A/F. I have to give it more gas than I want to just to keep it moving without "sputtering" and wanting to stall.
After about 30 seconds of driving this way, it is fine. Any ideas?
#10
Not trying to jack your thread, but I have a very similar problem and some info to add.
First of all, I do let me car warm up, so that is not the issue. I can let it sit there for 5 minutes if I want and it will still do this same thing. It happens after the car has been sitting for an extended period of time (overnight or when I get in after work), but the rest of the time it's fine.
I have an XD-16 A/F gauge so I see what is happening, but I have no idea why...it goes extremely lean for those first 20-30 seconds of driving if you try to just give very light throttle...into the 18:1 A/F. I have to give it more gas than I want to just to keep it moving without "sputtering" and wanting to stall.
After about 30 seconds of driving this way, it is fine. Any ideas?
First of all, I do let me car warm up, so that is not the issue. I can let it sit there for 5 minutes if I want and it will still do this same thing. It happens after the car has been sitting for an extended period of time (overnight or when I get in after work), but the rest of the time it's fine.
I have an XD-16 A/F gauge so I see what is happening, but I have no idea why...it goes extremely lean for those first 20-30 seconds of driving if you try to just give very light throttle...into the 18:1 A/F. I have to give it more gas than I want to just to keep it moving without "sputtering" and wanting to stall.
After about 30 seconds of driving this way, it is fine. Any ideas?
#11
Evolved Member
iTrader: (25)
maybe i'm right about the forged pistons stock after all. in this article under performance. http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2...18/168969.html
#13
maybe i'm right about the forged pistons stock after all. in this article under performance. http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2...18/168969.html
#15
Evolved Member
iTrader: (25)
The piston manufacturing process is really moot for this discussion because A) I doubt the pistons expand/contract enough to be causing a large enough blow by leakage for the sputtering we are experiencing, B) even if the expanding/contracting theory were true, there's no way it only takes 20-30 seconds for them to expand enough to stop this issue.