TS Goofy

So yesterday after installing a new battery (Optima Red Top) and Spark Plugs (Denso IKH24 I think. 1 Step colder) I drove to town just fine. About 30 minutes of driving with no problems. Let the car sit at home for about two hours and decided to go do a few pulls while checking out my new WB and Boost guage I recently installed.

The pulls went good. Though the car got really hot really quick so I pulled over and popped the hood to see if anything is wrong and all checked out good and dry still. Car was cooling down pretty quick (was about -5* at the time). Touched my timing belt cover because I saw a missing bolt and it seems to barely rub my timing belt for a quick second and I backed off instantly.

Just a few seconds later my car just dies I tried starting it and just a lot of cranking, its not even close to firing up. Checked the fuse box in the engine bay and I noticed that Fuse #8 was blown. I replaced it and it keeps popping right when I turn the key to ON or all they way forward without starting it.

Read up on threads with the same propblem, a lot say that the rear 02 is grounding and causing the problem. I checked it out and its clear of any body, I added extra plastic protectant around the sensor wire so it wont rub through before installing my new 02. (its in the test pipe currently).

Pulled out the fat wald of wires out of my dash from the WB/Boost Guage. Made sure everything is good. Found a few exposed wires that I didnt use, made sure they arent touching any metal anywhere. Completely unplugged my add a fuse taps for my guages to the lower fuse box below out steering column so they arent getting any power at all.

Fuse still keeps popping.

I found a ground wire that I forgot to connect to my battery after the new battery install. It just goes from my Strut Tower Brace to the negagtive terminal on the battery and fuse still keeps blowing out.

My car is a few miles away from home and I am stumped. I really do not want to tow my car anywhere. I have a feeling It could be an easy solution just cant figure this out.

Please if you can help in anyway, it will be greatly appreciated.

J_Striker

iTrader: (4)

Under the passenger seat there is a connector for the rear 02 sensor. You can get to it without pulling the seat. Move the seat all the way back. Toward the front of the seat and close to the middle of the car is a slit in the carpet. Pull the connector out and disconnect it. Put in good fuse and try to start.

TS Goofy

Where does that whole harness start? I used that hole for my WB setup. I unplugged the current 02 from that harness and ran my WB harness through it. Though the stock harness is just sitting there, Where does is lead to so I can just pull it all out or just disconnect the other end so I can atleast get my car running. Thanks for the suggestion

evotuner04

iTrader: (45)

Just unplug your WB and put the factory harness back to work. Your WB should've had its own route ie: another bung in the dp or something.

jason42003

iTrader: (18)

Fuse 8 actually covers a lot of things on the engine management circuit such as the cam sensors and your radiator fans and the rear o2. It could be anything on that circuit grounding out so check all those. But since it covers your fans as well so if one is burnt up it could be your fan attempting to draw too much current to spin. When mine was blowing it was a combination of the rear o2 grounding out and the fan on the passenger side (for the ac system) being burnt. You can test the fan by attempting to spin it by hand, if it drags more than normal then that could be your issue. But like I said it covers a ton of sensors on the engine so it could be any one of the sensors as well.

TS Goofy

I'll try the old one I guess. I just found a bung with another sensor in the DP actually this morning on the car. So I will be properly re routing the WB to that spot but I atleast want to get my Evo back to my garage first.

TS Goofy

I will look up everything that fuse covers and start looking. Thanks for the suggestion.

jason42003

iTrader: (18)

This thread has um all listed, 3rd post down. But rear o2 and fans are the most common problems so I would start with those and check real close. The rear o2 is not necessary at all I have mine completely removed and connector wrapped to prevent water from getting in and shorting. So al long as you just mean that your wb is routed through the grommet for the rear o2 to the bung for the rear o2 your fine. If you meant it was spliced into the rear o2 wiring then yeah may be a problem. But here's the link.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tml?styleid=23

TS Goofy

Yea my WB is separately routed and I added extra plastic over is so it nothing like this would happen : \

And Ive found this thread also, has a good list of what to check but first look would be at the fans for the car did overheat a lot right before this happened.

evotuner04

iTrader: (45)

So whats the status of your car sir? How much to tow it home to get it off the road??

TS Goofy

Havent got a chance to check out all the things the fuse connects to. Just looked up all the solenoids and and sensors is runs and going to start checking everything tomorrow morning. But If I cannot figure this out by tomorrow I will just end up taking it to a local shop, Which I really do not want to do.

I managed to get the car off the road, its a driveway of an empty lot under a light pole. I still feel sketchy for leaving it like that but dont have much of a choice, I wanted to tow it myself so I can work on it in my garage but I wasnt able to find a place to wrap a tow strap on the front of the evo, that plastic splash guard is blocking a lot. I also have a very steep hill before my house and Im pretty sure I wouldnt be able to pull it up with my Dodge Journey with All Season Tires.

I will keep this updated until the issue is resolved. Thanks everyone for the help so far. I really hate electrical stuff.

evotuner04

iTrader: (45)

It is a bitoch....let us know and keep us posted. Good luck

jason42003

iTrader: (18)

If it's the fans your should be able to just unplug them and throw a little electrical tape over the connectors to get it home especially at -5 the air passing over the radiator from driving with keep it from overheating just take it easy and try to stay out of boost. If there's no load on the circuit then it won't draw power to blow the fuse. Other than that just take your time and look real closely at the wires, mine was a small nick right at the o2 body that I could barely see. Just be happy your near home haha when I had this issue I was somewhere in canada in the middle of the night in a doughnut shop parking lot on my way from Washington to alaska. Luckily it was the summer. Best of luck to you.

Ps. I was able to get it a few miles by putting a few larger amp fuses in, but I would definitely not suggest doing that unless you have to because you run the risk of burning up something important. But I got lucky and like I said somewhere in canada haha

jason42003

iTrader: (18)

I just noticed your in alaska too, fairbanks or anchorage I may be able to help you.

TS Goofy

I'm in Wasilla. I did try a 30a from a 20a. I took it from the AC slot I think and it popped instantly. Ill just take a good look or atleast try to. Dont have much daylight this time around so I'm just using portable small lights to see.