Welcome2GoodBur

I'll start this off with "clearly I've F****d something up. I take full responsibility, and do not need to be lectured here. With that being said, on to my issue.

I have a 2006 Evo IX MR, just hit 90k. The car had 0 issues at 78k when I bought it, except I replaced the stock clutch at that time. I planned to keep it stock until about a month ago.. I added an intake. Then this week I added cams (mild 270 cams). A few weeks ago (prior to adding cams) I started getting this strange driveline/drivetrain "vibration" or "thunk" or "I-don't-know-what-the-H**l- it-is" noise/feel. It is NOT 100% of the time, and sometimes, the car would drive FINE (prior to installing cams).
However, it is becoming more and more frequent. The noise seems to be happening upon acceleration, or at least load. I notice that my boost will build and the car doesn't seem to.....go? if that makes sense. Like it is still putting power, but it ALMOST resembles a slipping clutch the way the power is not transmitting to the wheel almost. This MAY be a secondary symptom of the noise/vibration/clunk, or it MAY be a leak in the intake system, as the latter symptom did NOT appear when I had the stock intake on...

I believe I can narrow it down to one of three areas:
Driveshaft
Transfer case
Rear Diff

I say this because I can feel it in the area under my seat. It sounds louder than my exhaust in some cases. I will try to upload a youtube video, but it is very hard to catch it and when I can, I can't record it quick enough. I have NO whine that I can tell, but the intake makes it hard to hear.

I had planned to take my car to Buschur racing in the next week for a tune (the car drives like CRAP right now due to the cams/intake, at least I am hoping that is the reason )after installing my test pipe and LICP, however, I don't want to be "that guy" and show up with a messed up car.... Seems like a waste of money if it's broken. (Or is it best to just see what they can do? They only reason I don't "call them" is bc I always feel like Im pissing them off when I ask questions)

I have "a guy" that can look at the car if I can't, he is good with and subi's but I would rather go into it knowing what I am looking for and try to identify it myself if possible.
I also just changed all driveline fluids for the 90k mile service.

What kind of things should I look for if any of the above have failed?
Also, does anyone know what a good path for resolution would be if I CANNOT figure it out, and if I can't get it tuned? Any good Evo repair people (I don't think BR does a lot of service work on Evo IX anymore that isn't engine building) within reasonable distance of Cleveland?

Thanks for your time, any input would be great!

4b11slayer

Boost leak test.
Spark plug inspection
Compression test.

Noise might be normal driveline slop clunk.
Diff bushings
Mustache bar

Whiney t case,trans,diff.

Video might help

Welcome2GoodBur

This is the best I could get last night

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skJQbHFz5GA

barneyb

What I hear sounds to me like the normal thumping around of the rear suspension. Occasionally my car will make this noise. When it does this, sometimes it sounds like the rear suspension is about to depart the car. Yesterday it was humid and warm and it was doing it a lot. Today, with the weather cooler and wet, the sound is gone.

You gotta remember, this car was developed by a bunch of gear heads at Mitsubishi who wanted the car to go fast and win WRC championships. Little noises in the suspension was not a concern.

Welcome2GoodBur

I don't agree, but that first video was crap. My car has NEVER had these issues, so it is NOT normal.

Second and third video:

barneyb

Do you have a way of monitoring knock? It could be pulling spark advance.

Welcome2GoodBur

I do, yes. I have a Tactrix and Evo scan, and another app torque pro that I believe can be used to monitor.

A. What would normal range look like
B. What could that indicate?

You mention spark timing, and I went to check my spark plugs earlier actually to see, and I noticed that cylinder 3 left some sort of metal connection. I plan to replace plugs and wires.

I am actually taking it to Buschur next week, he has agreed to look at it. However, I am the DIY type and I need to know WHAT is wrong, not just that "something is wrong, and someone will fix it"

Thanks for any thoughts

gsrboi80

iTrader: (38)

I didn't think Buschur still worked on Evos outside of engine builds and tuning cars he built. Thought I heard he was done working on POS, rusted, poorly modified evos.

Not that yours is just saying in general heard he wasn't going to be doing repair work or fixing these cars any longer. Not that I blame him lol

Welcome2GoodBur

Well thanks for taking time out of your day to be a dick! That was such a helpful answer
I'd definitely like to think I don't have a "POS".....
As far as the rust, mine has 0, as it has yet to see snow/salt.
Poorly modified? As stated, I just installed cams and an intake. The car previously had a tune and exhaust. For a car with 90,000 miles that at 78000 still had the stock clutch, I fail to see how this is "poorly modified".

I try not to get discouraged by people such as yourself, who, rather than take the time to offer assistance, would rather spend the time critiquing others. Clearly your evo has never had any issues, and clearly you were born knowing the ins and outs of the car.
I apologize that this is my first evo, first turbo car, first tuned car, etc. I apologize that I want to know WHAT is wrong with my car. And, I apologize for the fact that David so far has been the only person nice enough to offer assistance. Says a lot about his character.

gsrboi80

iTrader: (38)

I'm sorry you read my post incorrectly. I said I'm not saying your car is any of those things. In fact you have a great mod list this far. I just didn't know BR was still doing repair work on Evolutions.

That's great that he's going to have a look for you.

I personally cannot hear anything in the videos you posted though I'm on my phone so that may be hindering me hearing the issue you are capturing.

As for knock you should not see anything in the knock sum PID maybe maybe a 1 or 2 here or there but car should remain knock free though the RPM range.

Sorry you took me the wrong way. I was not down talking your car at all just questioning services offered at BR still? I had heard differently due to the reasons I stated in previous post. I should have put quotation marks on the POS, rusted and poorly modified Evo part.

GL with getting the car fixed up.

Ferp

I think it was stated above but definitely take a look at your rear diff bushings. They take a beating and with old age can develop a ton of play. We had a local guy go through two rear diffs because when he would launch the car with the worn bushings it would cause it to twist and the actual gears would break from the torque. On a stock power car.

I listened to video 2/3 but due to YouTube encoding and phones not being the greatest recording devices I found it hard to hear anything aside from that cam idle and road noise, sorry man.

Welcome2GoodBur

So I got the car running a bit better after this weekend. Wondering if when I pulled the negative battery, and it reset the ECU, if the cams just needed some time to settle.

As far the noise: it is sporadic and hard to capture on video, so my apologies. I do believe that I either need to replace the driveshaft carrier bearings, mustache bar bushings, and/or rear diff bushings.

gsrboi80 thanks if you weren't being a dick!
When you have been up since 3am the night before trying to sort this out, it can be a bit frustrating.