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Installing Beatrush Propeller Shaft Bushings In your Garage

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Old Nov 27, 2006, 08:21 PM
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Installing Beatrush Propeller Shaft Bushings In your Garage

Well, I ordered my Beatrush propeller shaft (drive shaft) bushings from Kami Speed and they came in today and like a kid in a candy store I was off to my garage.
While I was at it, I figured I would snap some pics and make it as easy as possible for those who are not mechanically inclined. This is as straight foward as it gets. Please exercise caution when underneath any vehicle.

These are the bushings from Beatrush. There is another set of these which I had already installed, so just imagine another set there.
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First these are the tools that you will need.
1.) Ratchet
2.) Extension
3.) 14mm Socket
4.) Flat screw driver
5.) Swivel extension for socket (forgot the name of it)
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1.) First properly jack up your car and use jack stands.

2.) This step is optional as I did not do it. You may find it easier by removing your the rear section of your exhuast. I found that to be insane just to install 4 sets of metal bushings and opted to work around it. If you like the bling bling of your exhaust underneath your car, , then remove it or cover it, because it may get a little scratched.


3.) These are the two 14mm nuts that you will be removing. One is kinda hidden to the upper left hand corner of the screen. You will need the swivel for this nut.
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4.) Be careful not to look up directly into the nuts as you remove them, there is rust and it will fall into your eyes.
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5.) Try and have a second set of hands to help you with this or have some thing around that you can use to support the drive shaft as you undo the nuts. I knew this cheap socket set would come in handy one day. LOL.
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6.) The shaft will drop slightly after you have undone both nuts. Giving you just enough room to rip off the old crappy bushings Mitsu left us with. I was able to contort my body to use my knee to support the drive shaft. My wife refused to get under there with me.
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Removal of the old bushing.
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Beatrush bushings vs. OEM bushings. Beatrush FTW.
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The bushing in the bottom right corner will go on top of the drive shaft hanger, and the one in the top right corner will go underneath it. Don't try and slip it in the hole as you will drive your self CRAZY trying to make it fit with the the limited space you have.

What I found to be easiest is to put the top bushing in place, and when you are ready to put the bottom bushing in, get out your screwdriver and try to align it to the best of your ability to the hole. Once you put the bottom bushing in place, you are left with 4 threads or so to start screwing the nut back on. The bushing will align itself seeing that you got it pretty even with the screw driver. Like so.
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Follow this procedure for the other one as well (there are two sets that need to be replaced), and you should have this in the end.
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The swivel socket is used for this one as it is a PITA to get to if not impossible without the swivel attachment due to my test pipe.
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I cannot give any impressions as I have not taken the car out yet. I'm gonna jump in the shower and give you guys a review in a bit.

Many thanks to Kami Speed for these awesome products. I will be doing the rear diff bushings tommorrow night, also a Beatrush product.

Last edited by revvin9k; Jul 3, 2009 at 04:08 PM.
Old Nov 27, 2006, 08:59 PM
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hmm... I've had these on my wishlist for a long time now but have always worried that they might translate a bit too much vibration possibly damaging something in the driveline. Then again I have moments of paranoia Please give us the low down, positives and negatives if any
Old Nov 27, 2006, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mitsuorder
hmm... I've had these on my wishlist for a long time now but have always worried that they might translate a bit too much vibration possibly damaging something in the driveline. Then again I have moments of paranoia Please give us the low down, positives and negatives if any

I thought the EXACT same thing when I put them on figuring the exrta cushion of the OEM pieces dampened some noise and vibration. I just came back from a short but spirited drive, and boy were we both wrong.

I had a lot of drivetrain noise, (clutch chatter) that would drive me crazy. I thought for sure now it was gonna rattle like a can. My clutch chatter has almost dissapeared.
The car felt superb!!!!!! It sounded even better too. It's very hard to explain and i'm no genius but here's my approach as to why they worked.

As the OEM pieces due have some cushion, it allows for a lot more play, vibration, movement, etc. in the drive shaft. When all that is not allowed into the equation, the drive shaft operates as it was intended to. Very firm and sturdy. I can't word it better, that was my guess.

I've almost lost some vibration in the car as well. It's weird, i'll give yet another review when I take her for a longer drive.
Old Nov 27, 2006, 09:39 PM
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Awesome revvin9k, I now have something to put on my holiday wishlist that my girlfriend has been asking me for. Keep us posted on these. Let us all know how the rear differential bushings are to install and perform.
Old Nov 27, 2006, 10:12 PM
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Can one use the same bushings on both prop shaft joints? Is that what you did?
These sound very interesting, any updates?
Old Nov 27, 2006, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by cal1mr
Can one use the same bushings on both prop shaft joints? Is that what you did?
These sound very interesting, any updates?

There are 8 pieces in total. There are two drive shaft hangers, with 2 bushings in each side which split apart. You can see in the pic where I am removing the bushing. The Beatrsuh kit comes with 8 pieces, two to be used at each spot. They slide into each other, making it almost solid.

I'll give you guys a review on my lunch at work tommorrow, and i;ll probablly do the rear diff ones there as well.

I would also recommend these for the shear fact mine crumbled apart and I don not track my car. The driveshaft is something you def. want supported well and sturdy. My .02.

Last edited by revvin9k; Nov 27, 2006 at 10:20 PM.
Old Dec 4, 2006, 03:45 PM
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Great pictures and review; thank you.
Old Dec 4, 2006, 08:54 PM
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Bump for an update on the rear diff bushings
Old Dec 5, 2006, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mitsuorder
Bump for an update on the rear diff bushings
LMAO, sorry. Well, the reason the review took so long on the rear diff bushings was this:Name:  Picture115.jpg
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In a hurry to do the rear diff bushings, I accidentally cross threaded the bolt for the diff carrier, resulting in a $500 mistake. Take your time doing these folks, or you'll pay outta ur a** for the mistake later.

After sorting out the problems I had, I am pleased to say that I love the bushing set. I can't notice the rear difff budhings as much, but the drive shaft bushings are a God sent. The vibrations in the cabin I had are now gone, drivetrain vibration does not seem apparent at all, and over all the ride seems much smoother. I am not very good with reviems, but I am sure if somebody else gets these, they'll be able to chime in with a better review.
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Thank you Kami Speed, these rock.
Old Dec 5, 2006, 07:52 AM
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OMG, $500 mistake? What the heck did you have to replace? Glad to see everything turned out ok in the long run and thanks for all of the pics and info
Old Dec 5, 2006, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mitsuorder
OMG, $500 mistake? What the heck did you have to replace? Glad to see everything turned out ok in the long run and thanks for all of the pics and info
This had to be replaced:
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The "diff carrier" had to be replaced. Not possible to have it re threaded or "Heli-Coiled". So it had to be replaced and so did the bolts. Have no one to blame but myself for trying to hurry to do it before work started.

Last edited by revvin9k; Dec 5, 2006 at 04:48 PM.
Old Dec 5, 2006, 04:55 PM
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Oh damn man! Sorry to hear that happened. There isn't a time-sert big enough? Guess even if there is there might be a problem with it holding the necessary torque and stress that area is subject to... Just to prevent others from making the costly mistake do you think that the crossthreading could have been avoided in any particular way other than not rushing? Please take no offense to that question, just curious if things shifted after the bolt was removed basically.

Last edited by mitsuorder; Dec 5, 2006 at 05:05 PM.
Old Dec 5, 2006, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mitsuorder
Oh damn man! Sorry to hear that happened. There isn't a time-sert big enough? Guess even if there is there might be a problem with it holding the necessary torque and stress that area is subject to... Just to prevent others from making the costly mistake do you think that the crossthreading could have been avoided in any particular way other than not rushing? Please take no offense to that question, just curiousl if things shifted after the bolt was removed basically.

No offense taken.

You hit the nail on the head. As soon as I dropped the second bolt, I noticed the diff shifted, I tried to get some one else in the shop to help, but at 7:00am, there was only one other person there. I had him thread the bolt in, while I held the diff in place. We then switched, and he held the diff while I ran for my impact gun. Assuming they were threaded in well without checking first by hand again, is what i'm at fault at.

Instead I bust out 300 ft lbs from my impact gun, those poor threads did'nt stand a chance.
Old Dec 5, 2006, 05:25 PM
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Wow! Again, sorry. We've all been there and we've all been bitten by the air tool. How did the diff shift and do you think a jack or some type of bracing from under the diff would have prevented it?
Old Dec 5, 2006, 05:34 PM
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A nice pry bar would've done wonders. The diff was'nt to heavy to hold. Definetly a two person job for the diff bushings. It maybe possible to do it by yourself, I highly advise against it.


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