freedom

iTrader: (1)

Given that the US Evo already has a robust theft prevention system via an immobilizer, my requirements for an add-on alarm system were somewhat basic.

1) Utilize the factory keyless entry system
2) Trigger the alarm based upon a door opening or a shock sensor
3) Provide a “don't mess with me” sound for minor shock sensor inputs
4) Utilize the car's horn as the signal
5) Hook up with a limited number of wires

The Evo has an immobilizer which prevents theft of the vehicle by preventing the car from running. This is accomplished via a small chip contained within the key, known as a RFID (radio frequency identification). When queried by the car, the RFID transforms the query in a unique way and returns the result. The car performs the same transformation and compares the two results. If they match the car is allowed to run. Bypassing the immobilizer is difficult as one has to replicate a serial bus message sent between to of the car’s ECU’s. (Note that this process is a little more complicated than this and is documented in the shop manual.)

Thus from a vehicle drive away theft prospective the system is more or less bullet proof. What the immobilizer doesn't prevent or discourage is theft of items within the vehicle. Hence the need for an add-on alarm system.

There are a number of after market alarms which are designed to augment existing vehicle systems. The DEI 700T is one such alarm. Its cost from www.autotoys.com is $85 plus shipping. While all of the requirements cited above are met, the alarm also has additional features which can be utilized with additional installation labor (e.g. siren, trunk unlock signal, starter interrupt, etc).

The alarm unit itself is about 3 x 4 x 1 inches. Connections to the unit involve valet and LED two wire harnesses, in addition to two main harnesses. To meet the requirements cited above only seven wires must be tapped into the Evo's harness. The most logical location to tap in is near the driver's side fuse block (known as the junction block in the shop manual).

The unit mounts to a bare metal region in the driver's side foot well area using double sided foam tape. Note that the manufacture states that screwing down the unit limits the usability of the shock sensor.

I created a pdf file with installation notes (no pictures) and posted it at timzcat’s ftp site. This installation is not rocket science and can be accomplished by anyone who takes their time. Alternatively one can give the notes to an installer to facilitate outsourcing the installation job.

If you do the job yourself a brief outline is included below.

1) Remove the driver’s side under dash panel and set aside.

First remove the hood unlock pull by removing two screws.

Remove the driver’s storage compartment (covers the junction block).

Unplug the harness from the headlight level and dimmer controls by reaching through the hole just uncovered by removing the storage compartment.

Unplug the harness from the junction block (it’s obvious which one).

There are two screws and one bolt on the bottom of the under dash panel. Along the top are three clips. You can reach behind the panel from the bottom to ease out the clips, thus preventing possible damage to the dash or panel.
2) Cut down the DEI harness to the necessary length (two feet or so is more than enough). Test the layout before committing yourself.
3) Disconnect the negative side of the battery.
4) Using 3m wire taps (permits a spade lug on alarm system wire to plug into the car harness) make the tapes as documented in the notes. (Walmart sells these taps.)
5) Plug in the alarm system per the notes and reconnect the battery.
6) Test the system.
7) If everything is working disconnect the battery and alarm system.
8) Dress the alarm harness with electrical tape to prevent noise from vibration.
9) Install the harness via wire ties to existing wiring.
10) Install the alarm module just above the kick panel via double side foam tape.
11) Plug in the alarm harness to the car.
12) Reconnect the battery.
13) Calibrate the alarm’s shock sensor to the car and installation location.

The alarm should only trigger for a hard slap on the windshield. If the shock sensor is set too sensitive false alarms will be generated by random noises such as engine / exhaust system cooling.

Bumping the windshield with the heel of your hand should only generate a series of chirps from the horn.
14) Reinstall the driver’s side under dash panel.

Your done!

nastea

iTrader: (9)

what wiring diagram did you use? how did you know which wires where which?

freedom

iTrader: (1)

I made it up based upon reading the shop manual's schematics. Refer to the file in the upload directory. I assume it will be moved to the installation directory at some point. (Use: ftpsite timzcat.com username: evom password: evom)

The site no longer exists.

nastea

iTrader: (9)

i have the manual, do you know what page, or what section?

freedom

iTrader: (1)

Group 90 is the schematics. Key sections in that group to consult are:

- Central locking
- Junction block
- Horn
- Dome light, luggage compartment light and ignition light
- Power distribution system

Group 80A has good information about connector location, while group 70 on the location of the junction block and E-TACS ECU.

The ground is obvious in the under dash area. There is no need to find it via the manual.

nastea

iTrader: (9)

now its not clear in either your description above or in the PDF, but..

when dealing with the junction box... are you dropping it down, or leaving it up under the dash, because i've looked at the junction box before, and done all the steps before, but the the wiring diagrams i got from DEI's website, were not complete for the evo.

and i could not figure out how to drop the junction box, because there are about 10 or more plugs into it.

nastea

iTrader: (9)

yeah there is a huge grounding point under the dash i've seen that... also thanks for pointing out which parts of the manual..

freedom

iTrader: (1)

To be honest I couldn't figure out how to release the top of the junction box from the dash support structure. The plugs behind the shield must come out after the box is dropped.

Thus I did all of the work with the box in place under the dash. It's not that bad given that there are so few wires to deal with. And I picked wires which were not behind the shield. Thus every connection is simple to make.

What took time was confirming the schematics with a DVM before hooking up to the car. (While I didn't trust the shop manual it appears to be correct in at least these areas.)

TRDHarrier

iTrader: (3)

any pictures?? and will it work with a turbo timer?

freedom

iTrader: (1)

No pictures.

Good question. All that is required to arm the system is the doors must be closed and the car's keyless entry system's door lock signal (e.g. if the doors physically lock when the lock is pressed, the system will arm.) My guess is that these requirements are met with the current turbo timer harnesses. Otherwise one would have to lock the car manually.

P.S.

I don't believe turbo timers are necessary, but to each their own....

nastea

iTrader: (9)

ok folks here you go for all you DIY'ers


12volts white + ignition harness
Starter black/yellow + ignition harness
Ignition black/white + ignition harness
Power Lock purple - driver kick, door harness
Power Unlock lt. green - driver kick, door harness
Lock Motor blue/red 5wi driver kick, door harness
Unlock Motor white 5wi driver kick, door harness
Disarm Defeat white 5wi pass. kick, door harness
Parking Lights+ grn/yel (L), grn/wht (R) + wht plug bottom of fuse box
Parking Lights- N/A
Hazards white - hazard switch
Turn Signal(L) lt. green or white/blue + driver kick, harness to rear
Turn Signal(R) yellow + driver kick, harness to rear
Door Trigger white - wht plug bottom of fuse box
Dome Supervision use door trigger
Trunk/Hatch Pin green/orange - light in trunk
Hood Pin N/A
Trunk/Hatch Release N/A
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm N/A
Factory Alarm Disarm gray - driver kick, door harness
Disarm No Unlock N/A
Tachometer black/yellow or black/green ac either ignition coil

Horn Trigger blue/red or red - steering column
Notes: It is blue/red on the standard models and red on the Evolution VIII models.

Memory Seat 1 N/A
Memory Seat 2 N/A
Memory Seat 3 N/A


Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: Yes Type: Transponder Part #: 555U
Notes: Only the Evolution VIII models have the immobilizer.

freedom

iTrader: (1)

No idea. I don't have a timer.

nastea

iTrader: (9)

the model i have works great with a turbo timer, it actually helped me to tap the ignition so i didn't have to jack the factory ignition wires jus tapped the TT harness

marksae

iTrader: (12)

Do the power lock buttons on the door panels perform the same function as pressing the lock and unlock buttons on our keyless entry remotes? My concern with "piggyback" alarms is that a thief can break into the car and disarm it by pressing the unlock button.

Oh, I had another question about the engine immobilizer. Why would you need to bypass it if you had an alarm? If the key is present and the alarm is disarmed, you should be able to start the car right?

freedom

iTrader: (1)

Wow a flash from the past.

First the immobilizer. Bypass? No way for an alarm. In fact the immobilizer is what stops someone from starting the car in my configuration (first post in this thread). A remote starter is the only reason to disable the immobilizer. (I wouldn't have such a thing for many reasons on one of my cars.)

You are correct about the buttons. There is a line of the alarm, not cited above, that prevents the buttons from disabling the alarm system. Bascially the inputs to the motors enable/disable the alarm. In addition a signal from the switches override what the motor inputs are telling the alarm. Thus the remote can control the alarm, while the buttons in the car are ignored.

I hope this helps.