Evo 6 > Lower Cntr Arm > Ball Joint > Removal
Dec 20, 2011, 04:28 AM
#1
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Evo 6 > Lower Cntr Arm > Ball Joint > Removal
! Start by reading reading thread #18. The picured ball joint is NOT the correct one for one piece cntr arm.
Anybody done that? Pls advise on how to?
My car has the one pc Al control arm w/ "pressed in" ball joint.
What confuses me is the groove in the housing and the question on how to get the locking ring out of the hub.
THY!
Kris
Anybody done that? Pls advise on how to?
My car has the one pc Al control arm w/ "pressed in" ball joint.
What confuses me is the groove in the housing and the question on how to get the locking ring out of the hub.
THY!
Kris
Last edited by 3kg; Dec 26, 2011 at 02:17 PM. Reason: error'n here
Dec 25, 2011, 01:41 PM
#3
evo6 should have a bracket bolted to the arm with 3 bolts ,the ball joint tapered end goes into the bracket tapered hole. the other end into the knuckle and is clamped with a bolt like the ball joint you have pictured and below
http://www.akadia.ru/_pages/mitsubis...UDFKNy5qcGc%3D
the evo5 and 6 tme bottom arm is one piece you cannot get the ball joint separate afaik
like below
http://www.akadia.ru/_pages/mitsubis...c3LmpwZw%3D%3D
http://www.akadia.ru/_pages/mitsubis...UDFKNy5qcGc%3D
the evo5 and 6 tme bottom arm is one piece you cannot get the ball joint separate afaik
like below
http://www.akadia.ru/_pages/mitsubis...c3LmpwZw%3D%3D
Last edited by todd6027; Dec 25, 2011 at 01:48 PM.
Dec 25, 2011, 02:02 PM
#6
happy chrsitmas to you aswell its a complete arm i think , the pic of the ball joint you have is for the other type evo6 bottom arm plate type , its strange as i have a jdm6 rs in the garage and it has the arms with the 3 bolts .
Last edited by todd6027; Dec 25, 2011 at 02:05 PM.
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Dec 25, 2011, 02:30 PM
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...nope - not here. But the pictured one is the one I have in, doubtless.
Can you identify the ball joint as the one for the plate/bracket type arm? I'm about to order and then rebuild if possible though prob. not really easy...
BTW - I did exchange both front ctr.arms last summer - same design. I will rebuild the former ones and sell, need cash, and they're looking better then I tought, expet the dust cap/boot...
Can you identify the ball joint as the one for the plate/bracket type arm? I'm about to order and then rebuild if possible though prob. not really easy...
BTW - I did exchange both front ctr.arms last summer - same design. I will rebuild the former ones and sell, need cash, and they're looking better then I tought, expet the dust cap/boot...
Dec 25, 2011, 02:36 PM
#9
Is yours an rs2 17 digit chassis number the ball joint in your pic is the wrong type for your car , the type for yours doesnt sell separate you can buy the dust caps though
dust caps part no MR316350
dust caps part no MR316350
Last edited by todd6027; Dec 25, 2011 at 02:39 PM.
Pin point. Glad I didn't order yet... 65€/pc
Dec 25, 2011, 08:50 PM
#14
Tarmac Suspension, which is normal to LHD RS2 has the ball joint in the arms pressed in like later EVO 7/8/9.
They get pressed out, but there are warnings to have to have a very precise "tool" such as socket that fits firmly perfectly over the ball joint, to avoid pressing on the arm at all, as the Aluminum arm will bend...and therefore be rendered useless.
So I would do some reserach on White Line Roll Center kit and see how people press the ball joints out, use the same method.
I am not clear if you just need dust boots, which are widely availabe, and can be installed, or is the ball joint worn/loose, either way just use the same process as Roll-Center kit installers would.
Finally, I am surprised that any suggestion would be made that you have something "wrong", given that basically all TME's have Tarmac suspension to my knowledge, mine does and every other I've seen does, and how could you anyway end up with "wrong" suspension component, and in Germany where all modifications must be TUV registered?
Impossible virtually.
Anyway, to anybody posting answers, do your research or don't make suggestions unless you are informed, bringing undue concern to Original Poster, and yet not adding any value at all - to the contrary adding confusion.
They get pressed out, but there are warnings to have to have a very precise "tool" such as socket that fits firmly perfectly over the ball joint, to avoid pressing on the arm at all, as the Aluminum arm will bend...and therefore be rendered useless.
So I would do some reserach on White Line Roll Center kit and see how people press the ball joints out, use the same method.
I am not clear if you just need dust boots, which are widely availabe, and can be installed, or is the ball joint worn/loose, either way just use the same process as Roll-Center kit installers would.
Finally, I am surprised that any suggestion would be made that you have something "wrong", given that basically all TME's have Tarmac suspension to my knowledge, mine does and every other I've seen does, and how could you anyway end up with "wrong" suspension component, and in Germany where all modifications must be TUV registered?
Impossible virtually.
Anyway, to anybody posting answers, do your research or don't make suggestions unless you are informed, bringing undue concern to Original Poster, and yet not adding any value at all - to the contrary adding confusion.
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8000rpm (Jun 18, 2021)
Dec 26, 2011, 01:29 PM
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Yes. No wonder everbody is all confused. I was too. But fortunately I researched and gained clarity, cause I had to, last summer that was.
The lower front control arm must be one of Mitsus experimental labs where it goes one step fwd and two steps back. Thus double R&D time - which explaines the hi cost on these cntr arms - I guess
Anyways, there are two different designs on the E6, by name the E5 as in my opener and the E6 as described by Todd. Both came to use in E6, the E5 in my RS. Porbabely because it is the lighter version than the "two piece design". Basic Geometry is equal, but you cannot use both types on the same car. The 2 pc design has the ball joint assembled upside down. So you would need to have a different knuckle all the way. Anyways, both types were referred to as CP9A, so fell free to feel confused!
The E7 CT9A is a totally different design besides being one piece again. The cntr arm itself and ball joint as well. You could not use an E7 CT9A onwards ball joint in the one piece cntr arm on an CT9A. Do not mistake one by the other. The E8 CT9A again has received an ECN, larger ball in ball joint here.
So, as far as replacing the entire cntr arm on the front suspension you will need to physically examen what your wheels suspend on, take a picture or the car with you when you place your order. Hopefully that sales/mechanic is in the knows.
After this being clarified I would like to know if someone has performed a ball joint replacement on an MR455758 arm with a MR485675 ball joint that is? And how?
Att. you see my cntr arm, the one piece design CP9A.
I could document each detail mentioned above easily - just haula.
The lower front control arm must be one of Mitsus experimental labs where it goes one step fwd and two steps back. Thus double R&D time - which explaines the hi cost on these cntr arms - I guess
Anyways, there are two different designs on the E6, by name the E5 as in my opener and the E6 as described by Todd. Both came to use in E6, the E5 in my RS. Porbabely because it is the lighter version than the "two piece design". Basic Geometry is equal, but you cannot use both types on the same car. The 2 pc design has the ball joint assembled upside down. So you would need to have a different knuckle all the way. Anyways, both types were referred to as CP9A, so fell free to feel confused!
The E7 CT9A is a totally different design besides being one piece again. The cntr arm itself and ball joint as well. You could not use an E7 CT9A onwards ball joint in the one piece cntr arm on an CT9A. Do not mistake one by the other. The E8 CT9A again has received an ECN, larger ball in ball joint here.
So, as far as replacing the entire cntr arm on the front suspension you will need to physically examen what your wheels suspend on, take a picture or the car with you when you place your order. Hopefully that sales/mechanic is in the knows.
After this being clarified I would like to know if someone has performed a ball joint replacement on an MR455758 arm with a MR485675 ball joint that is? And how?
Att. you see my cntr arm, the one piece design CP9A.
I could document each detail mentioned above easily - just haula.