Racer RS X

iTrader: (6)

Ok, I went for a mountain run Friday to close out the year, and it was perfect. Got 4 passes on my favorite road with no traffic. But, I toasted my brakes on the down hill. We are talking slightly warped, no feel, hey my Scion Xa will stop better than this.
But, it was sooooo much fun.
Ok, it is time to fix the brakes so, I want some folks thoughts on this:

Option 1 -
Turn the rotors (31K miles on them)
Change brake fluid to Motul 600

Option 1a -
Turn the rotors (31K miles on them)
Change brake fluid to Motul 600
Add Steel Braided brake lines - which ones?

Option 2 -
Turn the rotors (31K miles on them)
Change brake fluid to Motul 600
Add Project Mu racing pads in the front to replace Project Mu NS pads (got the racing pads in the back - shipping error)

Option 3 -
Turn the rotors (31K miles on them)
Change brake fluid to Motul 600
Add Project Mu racing pads in the front to replace Project Mu NS pads (got the racing pads in the back
Add Steel Braided brake lines - which ones?

Option 4 -
Replace rotors
Change brake fluid to Motul 600
Add Project Mu racing pads in the front to replace Project Mu NS pads (got the racing pads in the back
Add Steel Braided brake lines - which ones?

I am wondering how far I should go with the brakes. I mostly just do a mountain run once a month, and sometimes autocross (though I have not done much with the Evo). So, for my use, what is the best bang for the buck. Are steel braided lines worth it. Has anyone tried to turn the stock rotors. Should I stay with project Mu, or go with someone else.
Just looking for peoples thoughts on this.

Thanks

Racer RS X

iTrader: (6)

Opps, I have a typing mistake in the title....I mean toasted brakes.....oops

KevinD

iTrader: (56)

if your rotors are warped it is because they are generating a lot of heat (obviously) and you need to increase the cooling to them. this will also greatly reduce the brake fade and keep the pads lasting longer. start with looking for some brake venting. next consider some crossdrilled or slotted rotors as replacements as both help increase heat transfer rates keeping the temps down a bit.

but yeah, swpping fluids to a high heat fluid is a good idea, as well as the stainless braided brake lines will increase braking response.

evo_whiplash

iTrader: (1)

no poll?
i say that you go for option 4 and replace the stock rotors with somthing a little better cooling and quality.

evodave

iTrader: (546)

turn brakes, get stainless lines, motul fluid ds2500 pads

machron1

iTrader: (1)

I am running stock lines & rotors, RBF600 fluid, and Ferodo DS2500 pads all around. If turning your rotors won't fix the warping, I would get a set of StopTech or OEM slotted rotors. If you want steel braided lines, Goodridge is reputable.

Nothing will save your brakes if you abuse them, but this setup has worked for me on track, mountain, & auto-x in spirited driving. Even professional drivers know how to conserve their brakes. If your pedal starts to get long, you need to throttle back your driving a bit to let the brakes recover. Otherwise you warp your rotors or cook your pads/fluid/caliper piston seals.

Racer RS X

iTrader: (6)

Cool, thanks for the feedback. I was hoping that I could turn the stock rotors. The warping is not bad.
I will get the RBF 600 Fluid, Replace my pads with the Ferodo DS2500 pads, and I think I will get the air guides. I found them for $102, and I guess they can't hurt.

Thanks

naucrx

iTrader: (19)

Hmm, if I have to choose one of those options I say go with Option 4. That's the closest fix in reference to what I did to fix my EVO's brakes. Now I can beat on them on the mountainan roads and they are still as smooth as ever.

I'm using DBA/RMR slotted front rotors, stock rear rotors, Ferodo DS2500 pads front, Project Mu BForce pads rear, and stock fluid and brake lines.

I've tried turning rotors and they just get screwed up again a few thousand miles down the road.

Jamdown

iTrader: (9)

What I plan on doing myself is
1) Change rotors to 2 piece slotted
2) Change fluid to Motul
3) Add cooling guides
4) Change pads to Ferodo DS2500

number 8

iTrader: (7)

I'm in the same boat. Sounds like I need at least new front rotors and pads. What I want to know is, the stock Brembos rotors are like 500 bucks, and the racing brake , or similar high performance rotors are at least 100 bucks less. Are we losing or gaining any performance from stock.

KillaSweep

iTrader: (1)

turning rotors only decreases the effective mass at absorbing and dissapating heat....less mass = faster heating.

UT_Evo

iTrader: (5)

replace rotors, get new pads, and new fluid...and if you have the time and money, then some more cooling devices...no matter what you do though, remember to drive soft after driving hard to evenly cool the brakes down
Oh, and be careful with slotted and drilled, they stay cool easier, with the drawback of cracking easier
I've been using my stock rotors for a long time, including one track event and a few auto-xs (and of course the usual spirited driving around town), and they work great, the pads are the only thing I think need work, and thus I'm switching to the DS2500s when the time comes

erioshi

It sounds like you either glazed your pads or boiled the fluid. I've heard alot of people here talk about warped rotors, but my personal experience has always come back to just pad transfer.

My Evo has seen over a dozen track days, and the things I have done to improve brake performance and longevity are: Stainless Steel Brake lines, the Mitsubishi dealer option brake air guides (self installed), ATE Super Blue brake fluid (try www.raceshopper.com or www.stoptech.com) and a GOOD set of brake pads. Those simple changes have done away with pad transefer and brake fade.

You will still need to keep some awareness of how you're using your brakes - no automotive brake system (that I'm aware of) is immune to failure if enough demands are placed on them. Part of learing to drive the car is understanding it's limits.

infantsam

iTrader: (1)

drilled and slotted rotors don't cool any better - thats all a bunch of garbage

They provide increases bite/pedal response and keep pads from getting glazed - and they let any gases/dust/debris escape a bit easier - so they aren't a huge performance increase but there are some benefits


but either drilled or slotted will wear out your pads faster and drilled definitely will be more likely to crack - it's simple physics

And erioshi is most likely correct - when you got to the bottom of the hill an dheld that smoking hot pad against the hot rotor you got UNEVEN pad transfer - you always want pad transfer - when things are super hot it gets unstable

I'd think you can flush the brake fluid and replace with something a little higher temp rated - then rebed the hell out o fht epads a few times and you may be able rto smooth them out.

If that doesn't work try some garnett paper and elbow grease - if still no luck get a LIGHT turn - but your rotors at 30k are probably getting pretty worn so they may not be too much life left in them

xtremeboost69

I'd say go with option 4 and get slotted rotors, not cross-drilled. Cross-drilled rotor are more prone to cracking cuz they are drilled completely through the rotor, while on the other hand the slots on slotted rotor are only as deep as the minimum resurfacing depth, so there is no sacrifice in integrity. And make sure u buy from a reputable company like brembo, stoptech, etc. Cuz contrary to popular belief, cross-drilled and/or slotted rotor actually create a significant more amount of heat compared to the stockers due to the fact that the gases created by brakign are vented off and the contact between the rotor and the pad is much more constant. I would recommend gettin a set of brake coolers to help with the heat. As far as the pads, project Mu is a good choice.