Buschur Racing Evo X Air Intake, IC Pipe and FMIC thread
Feb 29, 2008, 08:24 AM
#1
Buschur Racing Evo X Air Intake, IC Pipe and FMIC thread
ALL OF THESE ITEMS ARE INSTOCK AND NOW SHIPPING!
As I did with the exhaust I wanted to make another thread for just these items so people can have the information and pictures at their finger tips without having to look through pages and pages of information as the other threads grow and grow. Its just more convenient for you guys.
Buschur Racing Evo X Air Filter Kit: The kit will include a K&N air filter, hardware and mounting bracket.
PRICE: $80
The filter alone gained some damn good power, 10 whp and 11 ft lbs of torque.
ALL OF THE TESTING IS BEING DONE WITH THE HOOD CLOSED. All the factory plastic installed around the core support and the factory air inlet to the factory air box installed. The air inlet was cut to fit with the new filter and still allow some cool outside air in.
Buschur Racing Evo X 2 1/2" S.S. upper IC pipe: Pictures is the prototype of what to expect. The finished piece will have the same shape and routing but it will be mandrel bent so the seams you see will not be there. We will offer this in 2 finishes. Polished and also a "brushed" as seen in the pictures. Please note that we also are still using a bracket at the factory location to keep the pipe from blowing off or moving around.
Polished Stainless: $275
PRICE:
Brushed Stainless: $245
The kit will come with the upper pipe, couplings and clamps.
Adding the upper i/c pipe gained 8 whp and 1 ft lb of torque. Gains were from 4,000 rpm all the way to redline.
Here is the dyno sheet comparing the 3" catback and air filter to the 3" CB, Airfilter and upper i/c pipe.
POLISHED FINISH
The Buschur Racing Evo X FMIC:Quoted from David's original post.
PRICE: $759
OK, we also finished up the FMIC today. I am surprised at the results from the testing.
Size is: 12"H x 4 1/2" W x 18"L and this is the largest FMIC offered by any other company for the Evo X.
Since we do not have inlet/outlet temps and a way to datalog the changes in AIT's we simply used our laser pyrometer on the FMIC tanks to get an idea on the cooling.
Last time we dyno'd the car we had our BR True Dual exhaust, BR upper i/c pipe, BR filter kit and BR manual boost controller.
Today we installed the FMIC kit. The results were very shocking. We put the new BR FMIC on the car and loaded the car on the
We made 3 runs back to back with each intercooler. We used no fan on the dyno as we were measuring surface temps and did not want the fan to mess with our measurements. I will list this with air temps and HP/Torque.
BR FMIC
1st run, 295 whp/256 torque
Start inlet temp 49 degrees Starting outlet temp 48 degrees
Inlet after pull 52 degrees Outlet after pull 48.5 degrees
2nd run, 294 whp/256 torque
Start inlet temp 52.5 degrees Starting outlet temp 48 degrees
Inlet after pull 54 degrees Outlet after pull 49 degrees
3rd run, 284 whp/246 torque
Start inlet temp 54 degrees Starting outlet temp 49 degrees
Inlet after pull 57 degrees Outlet after pull 50 degrees
So you can see from the above that the power/torque was consistent and the intercooler stayed cool. In three back to back pulls the inlet tank went from 49 degrees to 57 degrees and the outlet tank went from 48 degrees to 50 degrees.
We then took the BR FMIC off the car and put the stock FMIC back on the car. We made the change on the dyno with no other changes.
1st run, 274 whp/240 torque
Start inlet temp 54 degrees Starting outlet temp 52 degrees
Inlet after pull 82 degrees Outlet after pull 64 degrees
2nd run, 271 whp/231 torque
Start inlet temp 79.5 degrees Starting outlet temp 59 degrees
Inlet after pull 93 degrees Outlet after pull 77 degrees
3rd run, 264 whp/230 torque
Start inlet temp 85 degrees Starting outlet temp 63 degrees
Inlet after pull 100.5 degrees Outlet after pull 84 degrees
Very shocking to see the stock FMIC inlet continue to raise temps. I had the peak boost set at 24 psi with our FMIC kit. When we put the stock intercooler back on the boost dropped about 1.5 psi. So our FMIC has 1.5 less pressure drop than the stock core does.
The HP gains are nuts. On average the FMIC gained 21.3 whp and 19 ft lbs of torque.
Here is a picture of the FMIC on the car with the fascia off. We need to make a few more changes but this is the basic design. The upper i/c pipe works with the stock FMIC and our FMIC. The lower i/c pipe (stock) also works with our FMIC and the stock FMIC. We are trying to keep the modification path very simple with the car and make everything work together to save all of you money on mods.
Buschur Racing Evo X Lower IC Pipe: The kit will include the piping, clamps and couplings.
PRICE:
Polished Stainless: $275
Brushed Stainless: $245
It's a little shorter and much smoother than the stock one. We also were able to relocate the BOV return hose using the stock hose to make it all look a LOT better under the hood. We HATED the factory hose routing it just looked horrible. The tubing is mandrel bent 304 grade SS. The lower i/c pipe (and our upper i/c pipe) both work with the factory FMIC and will work with our FMIC for the car.
Here is a picture of the lower i/c pipe in the car:
Buschur Racing Evo X Mass Air Pipe
After our thorough testing to make sure this setup would cause absolutely no driveability issues on the Evo X we are proud to release the item to the public for purchase.
We found it important in our development and testing of this piece to keep the factory mass air flow sensor housing in place as the housing keeps the mass air flow sensor calibrated correctly.
The Buschur Racing Evo X Mass Air Pipe is made from mandrel bent 304 stainless and will come with 2 couplings, re-circ hose and all clamps needed for installation.
This will be available in both polished and brushed just like our upper and lower IC pipes. It will be offered 2 ways.
As a kit with our air filter kit at a discounted cost for purchasing both pieces together or available separately for those currently running our air filter kit that would like to replace the factory air inlet now.
We did route the BOV back into the pipe on the same angle as the stock inlet had. I also took the time to tap the vent from the valve cover back into the pipe. We hate the idea as you don't want the oil in the FMIC but we will offer this as an option to those of you that want it.
PRICE:
Polished Stainless: $159
Brushed Stainless: $139
*COMING SOON!*
Buschur Racing Carbon Fiber Evo X Air Intake Shield
PRICE: $180
The EVOX has an idle problem with an open element filter in place when the a/c is on in the car. The idle will stumble.
We were made aware of this from a customer or two and then we had some paperwork forwarded to us from Mitsubishi talking about the problem.
The problem is caused by hot air being forced from the fan on the radiator into the air filter, this throws off both the intake air temps and MAF rate causing the car to stumble when the fan cycles.
With every problem there is a solution. Below is our solution to the problem. These shields will end up being used in all of our filter kits for the EVOX.
Here is the picture of the front side. The end and opposite side are open to draw air in. The bottom fits over the filter and the clamp holds both pieces on.
If any of you have any questions please feel free to ask.
Take care!
As I did with the exhaust I wanted to make another thread for just these items so people can have the information and pictures at their finger tips without having to look through pages and pages of information as the other threads grow and grow. Its just more convenient for you guys.
Buschur Racing Evo X Air Filter Kit: The kit will include a K&N air filter, hardware and mounting bracket.
PRICE: $80
The filter alone gained some damn good power, 10 whp and 11 ft lbs of torque.
ALL OF THE TESTING IS BEING DONE WITH THE HOOD CLOSED. All the factory plastic installed around the core support and the factory air inlet to the factory air box installed. The air inlet was cut to fit with the new filter and still allow some cool outside air in.
Buschur Racing Evo X 2 1/2" S.S. upper IC pipe: Pictures is the prototype of what to expect. The finished piece will have the same shape and routing but it will be mandrel bent so the seams you see will not be there. We will offer this in 2 finishes. Polished and also a "brushed" as seen in the pictures. Please note that we also are still using a bracket at the factory location to keep the pipe from blowing off or moving around.
Polished Stainless: $275
PRICE:
Brushed Stainless: $245
The kit will come with the upper pipe, couplings and clamps.
Adding the upper i/c pipe gained 8 whp and 1 ft lb of torque. Gains were from 4,000 rpm all the way to redline.
Here is the dyno sheet comparing the 3" catback and air filter to the 3" CB, Airfilter and upper i/c pipe.
POLISHED FINISH
The Buschur Racing Evo X FMIC:Quoted from David's original post.
PRICE: $759
OK, we also finished up the FMIC today. I am surprised at the results from the testing.
Size is: 12"H x 4 1/2" W x 18"L and this is the largest FMIC offered by any other company for the Evo X.
Since we do not have inlet/outlet temps and a way to datalog the changes in AIT's we simply used our laser pyrometer on the FMIC tanks to get an idea on the cooling.
Last time we dyno'd the car we had our BR True Dual exhaust, BR upper i/c pipe, BR filter kit and BR manual boost controller.
Today we installed the FMIC kit. The results were very shocking. We put the new BR FMIC on the car and loaded the car on the
We made 3 runs back to back with each intercooler. We used no fan on the dyno as we were measuring surface temps and did not want the fan to mess with our measurements. I will list this with air temps and HP/Torque.
BR FMIC
1st run, 295 whp/256 torque
Start inlet temp 49 degrees Starting outlet temp 48 degrees
Inlet after pull 52 degrees Outlet after pull 48.5 degrees
2nd run, 294 whp/256 torque
Start inlet temp 52.5 degrees Starting outlet temp 48 degrees
Inlet after pull 54 degrees Outlet after pull 49 degrees
3rd run, 284 whp/246 torque
Start inlet temp 54 degrees Starting outlet temp 49 degrees
Inlet after pull 57 degrees Outlet after pull 50 degrees
So you can see from the above that the power/torque was consistent and the intercooler stayed cool. In three back to back pulls the inlet tank went from 49 degrees to 57 degrees and the outlet tank went from 48 degrees to 50 degrees.
We then took the BR FMIC off the car and put the stock FMIC back on the car. We made the change on the dyno with no other changes.
1st run, 274 whp/240 torque
Start inlet temp 54 degrees Starting outlet temp 52 degrees
Inlet after pull 82 degrees Outlet after pull 64 degrees
2nd run, 271 whp/231 torque
Start inlet temp 79.5 degrees Starting outlet temp 59 degrees
Inlet after pull 93 degrees Outlet after pull 77 degrees
3rd run, 264 whp/230 torque
Start inlet temp 85 degrees Starting outlet temp 63 degrees
Inlet after pull 100.5 degrees Outlet after pull 84 degrees
Very shocking to see the stock FMIC inlet continue to raise temps. I had the peak boost set at 24 psi with our FMIC kit. When we put the stock intercooler back on the boost dropped about 1.5 psi. So our FMIC has 1.5 less pressure drop than the stock core does.
The HP gains are nuts. On average the FMIC gained 21.3 whp and 19 ft lbs of torque.
Here is a picture of the FMIC on the car with the fascia off. We need to make a few more changes but this is the basic design. The upper i/c pipe works with the stock FMIC and our FMIC. The lower i/c pipe (stock) also works with our FMIC and the stock FMIC. We are trying to keep the modification path very simple with the car and make everything work together to save all of you money on mods.
Buschur Racing Evo X Lower IC Pipe: The kit will include the piping, clamps and couplings.
PRICE:
Polished Stainless: $275
Brushed Stainless: $245
It's a little shorter and much smoother than the stock one. We also were able to relocate the BOV return hose using the stock hose to make it all look a LOT better under the hood. We HATED the factory hose routing it just looked horrible. The tubing is mandrel bent 304 grade SS. The lower i/c pipe (and our upper i/c pipe) both work with the factory FMIC and will work with our FMIC for the car.
Here is a picture of the lower i/c pipe in the car:
Buschur Racing Evo X Mass Air Pipe
After our thorough testing to make sure this setup would cause absolutely no driveability issues on the Evo X we are proud to release the item to the public for purchase.
We found it important in our development and testing of this piece to keep the factory mass air flow sensor housing in place as the housing keeps the mass air flow sensor calibrated correctly.
The Buschur Racing Evo X Mass Air Pipe is made from mandrel bent 304 stainless and will come with 2 couplings, re-circ hose and all clamps needed for installation.
This will be available in both polished and brushed just like our upper and lower IC pipes. It will be offered 2 ways.
As a kit with our air filter kit at a discounted cost for purchasing both pieces together or available separately for those currently running our air filter kit that would like to replace the factory air inlet now.
We did route the BOV back into the pipe on the same angle as the stock inlet had. I also took the time to tap the vent from the valve cover back into the pipe. We hate the idea as you don't want the oil in the FMIC but we will offer this as an option to those of you that want it.
PRICE:
Polished Stainless: $159
Brushed Stainless: $139
*COMING SOON!*
Buschur Racing Carbon Fiber Evo X Air Intake Shield
PRICE: $180
The EVOX has an idle problem with an open element filter in place when the a/c is on in the car. The idle will stumble.
We were made aware of this from a customer or two and then we had some paperwork forwarded to us from Mitsubishi talking about the problem.
The problem is caused by hot air being forced from the fan on the radiator into the air filter, this throws off both the intake air temps and MAF rate causing the car to stumble when the fan cycles.
With every problem there is a solution. Below is our solution to the problem. These shields will end up being used in all of our filter kits for the EVOX.
Here is the picture of the front side. The end and opposite side are open to draw air in. The bottom fits over the filter and the clamp holds both pieces on.
If any of you have any questions please feel free to ask.
Take care!
Last edited by Jrod@Buschur; Jul 28, 2008 at 07:46 AM.
Feb 29, 2008, 08:36 AM
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Nice Nice
SO Whats The Boost Are you guy's Runing at?
This Is My First Turbo Car and im just wondering do you have to reflash the ECU when you install the parts like the STI?
SO Whats The Boost Are you guy's Runing at?
This Is My First Turbo Car and im just wondering do you have to reflash the ECU when you install the parts like the STI?
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Feb 29, 2008, 10:37 AM
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Last edited by Jrod@Buschur; Feb 29, 2008 at 02:44 PM.
Feb 29, 2008, 02:59 PM
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Why do you guys not replace the rubber hose that is located after the maf sensor? I would think you would gain some power with it replaced.
I also notice that alot of intercoolers kits out there have "hump hose" to allow some engine movement and to prevent the intercooler piping from poping off. I dont see one in your pics, would you consider running one?
I also notice that alot of intercoolers kits out there have "hump hose" to allow some engine movement and to prevent the intercooler piping from poping off. I dont see one in your pics, would you consider running one?
Last edited by Red Dragon; Feb 29, 2008 at 03:07 PM.