Transfer Case & Rear Diff Fluid bleeding concern
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Transfer Case & Rear Diff Fluid bleeding concern
I just purchased a 2008 Evo GSR with 28k miles. Im planning to do the 30k service soon. I have been searching and reading all the threads about bleeding the ACD/AYC systems after fluid changes, and wether or not it is required. So far it seems that no one knows for sure. Im a master auto tech for a living, and from looking at the service manual and how the ACD/AYC systems are set up heres what I think. From the way the fluid exchange procedures are described in the manual it looks like the drain and refill just replaces the fluid that the clutches sit in, and in any case is not a pressurized system, so there is always going to be a pocket of air above the fill plug. Therefore I think that unless the fluid pump, or lines in the back of the vehicle are replaced there is no need to bleed the system. What do you guys think on this matter?
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There are two types of fluid systems in the X transfer case and rear differential, hydraulic that need bleeding and simple drain/fill. The hydraulic systems do not need bleeding/flushing/changing at 30k, but you will want to do the drain/fill fluids (see below).
Transfer case: Diaqueen 90W LSD
Rear differential: Diaqueen 90W LSD and Diamond ATF SP III
You'll want to do the transmission too, my recomendation is Redline since the stock GL-3 sucks (IMO). Redline just came out with MT-85 which would probably be good, otherwise you can go with the Redline cocktailX (2xMTL & 1xMT90)
Transfer case: Diaqueen 90W LSD
Rear differential: Diaqueen 90W LSD and Diamond ATF SP III
You'll want to do the transmission too, my recomendation is Redline since the stock GL-3 sucks (IMO). Redline just came out with MT-85 which would probably be good, otherwise you can go with the Redline cocktailX (2xMTL & 1xMT90)
Last edited by Kracka; Nov 21, 2010 at 12:03 PM.
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I have read that aswell, but I want to change all the fluids just for peace of mind, I do not work for Mitsubishi though so I do not have acess to the scanner, but would still like to do the servicing myself.
Also why do you believe the stock fluids are worse than the redline? Is there any noticeable differences when switching to the redline products?
Also why do you believe the stock fluids are worse than the redline? Is there any noticeable differences when switching to the redline products?
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I like the Mitsu Diaqueen 90W LSD for the xfer case/rear diff, but the OEM tranny fluid just doesn't feel very good. Notchy, clunky, grinds, etc. I changed tranny fluid with Redline @ 1,200 miles and it went from feeling like a 20 year old truck to a brand new car...as it should! I hated the OEM fluid since I drove the car off the lot and changed it as soon as I got the chance.
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I like the Mitsu Diaqueen 90W LSD for the xfer case/rear diff, but the OEM tranny fluid just doesn't feel very good. Notchy, clunky, grinds, etc. I changed tranny fluid with Redline @ 1,200 miles and it went from feeling like a 20 year old truck to a brand new car...as it should! I hated the OEM fluid since I drove the car off the lot and changed it as soon as I got the chance.
Dont use Mitsu's' stock Diaqueen transmission fluid (GL-3 75-80W)...its garbage (too thin which is why people are complaining about clunkyness and hard shifting). Redline MT-90 is what we use as well to do our services on 8,9 and 10's (would also recommend the GL-4 75-90W from AMSOIL really good stuff too, but a bit more in $$$). The stock Diaqueen 90W is perfect for both the TC and RDiff. You will feel a world of difference when swapping your MT Fluid to the MT-90 (or GL-4) or a cocktail if you choose to do so.
Last edited by HR2L; Nov 21, 2010 at 01:29 PM.
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The OP lives in Chicago, you may be able to get away with a 75W-90 in the transmission since you're in CA but with the cold winters he will not be able to. I recommend he sticks close to Mitsu's viscosity spec (which I also did) with either the new MT-85 or the cocktailX I recommended above.
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The OP lives in Chicago, you may be able to get away with a 75W-90 in the transmission since you're in CA but with the cold winters he will not be able to. I recommend he sticks close to Mitsu's viscosity spec (which I also did) with either the new MT-85 or the cocktailX I recommended above.
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I talked with Mitsubishi, and it turns out that as I said earlier, the hydraulic systems only need to be bled if a component is replaced, drain refill of fluids for maintenance does not require bleeding. I'm going to confirm with some other sources just in case.
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when draining the rear, there are two drain plugs. They are marked. You want the one that says gear oil. The transfercase is a simple drain and fill as well. The fill plug faces the pass wheel. It also says gear oil on it as well.