What is the best year to buy a Evo X
Sep 27, 2012, 01:56 PM
#1
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What is the best year to buy a Evo X
So I bought my Evo IX new in 2006 and never looked back. Well now it was totaled and I'm considering a X. I really haven't kept up on them and don't know a lot about the differences in the years. So here are a few questions.
I drag race and would like to possible start doing the road course. So I'm looking for the best drive trains. I'm considering MR's
Do certain years have better stock tuning? (for example, I think I read that the 2010's fixed issues in the 08-09's)
How much torque can stock drive train handle? Manual vs MR?
What is the weak links in the drive train?
How much whp/wtq can the stock motor handle reliably? (400whp/400wtq seemed to be the perfect number for my IX. Ran it hard for more than 4 years with no problems)
In general is one year better than the rest?
BTW.... here is my IX
I drag race and would like to possible start doing the road course. So I'm looking for the best drive trains. I'm considering MR's
Do certain years have better stock tuning? (for example, I think I read that the 2010's fixed issues in the 08-09's)
How much torque can stock drive train handle? Manual vs MR?
What is the weak links in the drive train?
How much whp/wtq can the stock motor handle reliably? (400whp/400wtq seemed to be the perfect number for my IX. Ran it hard for more than 4 years with no problems)
In general is one year better than the rest?
BTW.... here is my IX
Last edited by meltdown; Sep 27, 2012 at 02:02 PM.
Sep 27, 2012, 02:25 PM
#3
So I bought my Evo IX new in 2006 and never looked back. Well now it was totaled and I'm considering a X. I really haven't kept up on them and don't know a lot about the differences in the years. So here are a few questions.
I drag race and would like to possible start doing the road course. So I'm looking for the best drive trains. I'm considering MR's
Do certain years have better stock tuning? (for example, I think I read that the 2010's fixed issues in the 08-09's)
2010 And above have great tunning, although some said the 2012 where underperforming it seemed to be isolated to some cars , but some including my car are producing higher numbers than the older cars, most likely due to the upgraded stock exhaust.
How much torque can stock drive train handle? Manual vs MR?
MR's can't handle more than 400wtq , and so far from what I read others say even with clutches upgraded it still does not handle that much torque.
I believe the highest HP/wtq on the 5 speed is over 850hq / 600 tq
What is the weak links in the drive train?
The clutch on the 5 speed , then I believe its the shift selector , followed by a distant last on the rear diff.. The MR the weakest link is the whole dam tranny.
How much whp/wtq can the stock motor handle reliably? (400whp/400wtq seemed to be the perfect number for my IX. Ran it hard for more than 4 years with no problems)
No more than 400whp/400wtq will keep you nice and safe , according to the avg poster here. I lurke a lot and I love to read up on the limits of this car
In general is one year better than the rest?
so far the concensus is that anything beyond 2010 is better, we don't have enough data for the 2013's
BTW.... here is my IX
I drag race and would like to possible start doing the road course. So I'm looking for the best drive trains. I'm considering MR's
Do certain years have better stock tuning? (for example, I think I read that the 2010's fixed issues in the 08-09's)
2010 And above have great tunning, although some said the 2012 where underperforming it seemed to be isolated to some cars , but some including my car are producing higher numbers than the older cars, most likely due to the upgraded stock exhaust.
How much torque can stock drive train handle? Manual vs MR?
MR's can't handle more than 400wtq , and so far from what I read others say even with clutches upgraded it still does not handle that much torque.
I believe the highest HP/wtq on the 5 speed is over 850hq / 600 tq
What is the weak links in the drive train?
The clutch on the 5 speed , then I believe its the shift selector , followed by a distant last on the rear diff.. The MR the weakest link is the whole dam tranny.
How much whp/wtq can the stock motor handle reliably? (400whp/400wtq seemed to be the perfect number for my IX. Ran it hard for more than 4 years with no problems)
No more than 400whp/400wtq will keep you nice and safe , according to the avg poster here. I lurke a lot and I love to read up on the limits of this car
In general is one year better than the rest?
so far the concensus is that anything beyond 2010 is better, we don't have enough data for the 2013's
BTW.... here is my IX
ouch on your evo
Last edited by FastAttack; Sep 27, 2012 at 02:27 PM.
Sep 27, 2012, 03:20 PM
#5
Sep 27, 2012, 08:48 PM
#6
not enough data
there shouldn't be a difference in tune from the 2011 to even the 2013.. the major change is the exhaust ..
Until this can be proven stock per stock 2011 to 2013 is the same power wise.
Unless the guys on the 2012 who posted from a shop got friday cars lol.
I match consensus on my 2012 with what the 2011's were making except I got a few extra ponies on the dyno.. which we all know doesn't mean anything until you look at power gains.
a dyno sheet and the power output are way dependent on where , when , how , and what dyno is being used.
That's why I am a preacher of don't look at the number , just look at your gains after a mod on the same dyno , it should give you a relative perspective of your gains and how much your butt dyno gives you.
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Sep 29, 2012, 12:24 PM
#8
All of the x's are pretty much the same from what I know. The torque that the drive train can handle from my knowledge is no more than 400 so keep it under that and u should be fine. If u are looking for power down the road I hear mr's lack in that dept. it can be done but with a little more effort. I have a gsr so maybe one of the guys with a mr can chime in and verify that
Sep 29, 2012, 01:09 PM
#10
I would get a 2011+. It should have the upgraded diff pins, timing chain, exhaust, FUSE, etc..
The drivetrains are pretty much all the same, but the diff pins in the '08-'10 is made of a softer metal and some members have had problems with them if they launch them a lot. If you get a 2010 or even a 2008 though, I wouldn't worry about it..
The 4B11 is proving to be a great engine, but honestly, I would only put the limit on torque to 370tq on the stock internals. After that the engine is prolly gonna need a few upgrades. You can run higher HP levels than that, but I wouldn't go higher than 370ish on tq to be really reliable.
The MRs SST can't handle the same amount of power that the GSRs 5-speed can. So if running bigger numbers is what you want, I say go for the GSR. The 5-speed is a great tranny. The problem with the 5-speed when you get into big numbers is gonna be the clutch- but the clutch CMC can't handle most aftermarket clutches, since Mitsu made it plastic, and that needs to be replace too.. Still a lot cheaper than the $10k for the SST if it blows up..
The drivetrains are pretty much all the same, but the diff pins in the '08-'10 is made of a softer metal and some members have had problems with them if they launch them a lot. If you get a 2010 or even a 2008 though, I wouldn't worry about it..
The 4B11 is proving to be a great engine, but honestly, I would only put the limit on torque to 370tq on the stock internals. After that the engine is prolly gonna need a few upgrades. You can run higher HP levels than that, but I wouldn't go higher than 370ish on tq to be really reliable.
The MRs SST can't handle the same amount of power that the GSRs 5-speed can. So if running bigger numbers is what you want, I say go for the GSR. The 5-speed is a great tranny. The problem with the 5-speed when you get into big numbers is gonna be the clutch- but the clutch CMC can't handle most aftermarket clutches, since Mitsu made it plastic
, and that needs to be replace too.. Still a lot cheaper than the $10k for the SST if it blows up..
Sep 29, 2012, 01:42 PM
#12
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Exactly the kind of things I was looking for. Thanks for the replies!Hey Richard- happened Tue night 137th n Antioch. Take good care of your GG SE! Number are getting low. Hey! You want to sell it? Lol
Last edited by meltdown; Sep 29, 2012 at 01:44 PM.
Oct 4, 2012, 01:22 PM
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I am also looking to get back to DSM after a few years with a 95-GS-T years ago and i'm looking at a MR, but man, there is like only 1 Mitsu dealer in the tri-state now thats within 20 miles, but does that mean they can charge a price like this..
http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...nal&listType=1
I just can't see myself paying 46K for a 2012 evo or any evo for that matter. Heck i thought Carmax was the highest place you could look but least they have a 2011 with 2k miles on it for 31K. So i've been hearing more of the buy 2011 so are the 2010 not so good to buy? I mean in regards to the TC tranny and Timing Chain?
http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...nal&listType=1
I just can't see myself paying 46K for a 2012 evo or any evo for that matter. Heck i thought Carmax was the highest place you could look but least they have a 2011 with 2k miles on it for 31K. So i've been hearing more of the buy 2011 so are the 2010 not so good to buy? I mean in regards to the TC tranny and Timing Chain?
Oct 4, 2012, 02:23 PM
#15
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I hear the 2010s are really good, though the later models are also good. But I work in insurance, so that's how I view everything... from 2011 onward, the insurance ratings for vehicles changed (used to be on a scale from 0 to maybe 29 or 30, then it went up to a much higher number, maybe 90 or so), and unfortunately the ratings for some cars that were risky to begin with ended up having different rates. I remember quoting myself with an Evo X a number of times... whether 2008 or 2010, they were pretty much the same, but the 2011+ models had noticeably higher rates despite being the same mechanically.