Blak94GSX

Step by step install guide for the Zeitronix ZT-2 Gauge/Logger system in an EVO X.
Specifically this is on a 2010 MR, although the process is the same for all EVO X models.

The Zeitronix ZT-2 system is comprised of the main controller box, an optional display unit, and various sensors that can be attached to the controller for logging purposes. More information on the Zeitronix ZT-2 gauge/logger system www.zeitronix.com.

Zeitronix instructions for 2010+ models: http://www.zeitronix.com/installatio...structions.pdf
2009 and earlier models: http://www.zeitronix.com/installatio...structions.pdf


Things you will need:

-zipties
-wire cutters
-wire strippers
-soldering iron/solder/flux (preferred) or solderless connectors
-long screwdriver to push out grommet
-12mm deep-well socket
-long socket extension
-ratchet
-phillipshead screwdriver
-sharp knife for cutting carpet
-flashlight and work lights will make things easier






Remove the glovebox by pinching the sides together and pulling it down until the hinges are free, also remove the side panel by the door and the kickpanel to expose the wiring harnesses behind.








The door sill panel just pulls up to loosen the clips, then the kickpanel has two poppet type connectors that you just pull on to pop them out. I circled them so you know where they are approximately to put your force in those locations. There is a plastic nut that sorta pushes/screws on to hold the corner of the kickpanel against the carpet.








Drop the lower panel that is under the fan assembly to give better access to everything to work on it. There are 2 pop-in fasteners that you have to push out first, then the rear of the panel just slides out from holes that the rear tabs sit in. The pop-in fasteners are highlighted here:







The hole that goes through the firewall is behind the Sirius receiver if you have one on your model. There are 2 12mm nuts that hold the mounting bracket to the firewall, use a long socket extension and a deep-well 12mm socket to remove the nuts and then the receiver will drop down after you unplug it:









Depending on the model, you may or may not have sound deadening material covering the hole through the firewall. If you do you will have to cut out a section to get to the hole. Use a sharp utility knife to slice 2 sides of the carpet flap. You don't need to remove the carpet completely, just slice it enough so it can fold down out of the way enough to push cables through. I highlighted the section that you need to cut out. Note the arrow that is stamped into the carpet for reference of the location:







After clearing out the working area inside the car, go to the engine bay and look in the back passenger side corner behind the shock tower and you will find a black rubber grommet. Use a long screwdriver or something to push it through into the inside of the car. I found it easier to push it in than to pull it out on the engine bay side, but either will work:










Push the cables through from the engine bay side towards the inside of the car, which will then look like this inside. Don't worry about the cable length at this point, leave lots of it in the engine bay until the sensors are installed:









Install the boost sensor. T into the BOV hose and connect it to the boost sensor and plug the wiring harness into the sensor. Then ziptie it to the large wiring bundle on the firewall, or wherever you prefer:







Ziptie locations for Boost Sensor cable routing highlighted:








Screw in the wideband sensor into the bung that is attached to your downpipe or wherever the bung was installed for it. You can also use the stock cat location and replace the rear O2 sensor. Run the wires up along the firewall and ziptie up out of the way. Try to get the cables as far away from the hot turbo as possible. From inside the car, pull through all the slack so the extra cable is inside the car, not the engine bay.


Stock rear O2 sensor secured to bracket with band clamp:







Zeitronix Wideband sensor installed in stock rear O2 bung, showing cable routing and ziptie locations:





Route wideband cable forward along the crossmember and then run the cable up along the power steering lines towards the hole in the firewall.

The wideband connector is highlighted in yellow, with the blue line showing how the cable is run, and the red circles highlight the ziptie locations:









Back inside the car, behind where the kickpanel was, find the thickest red wire, which is powered on only when the key is in the ON position. Tap into it for power for the Zeitronix system. Ideally you strip a little insulation off but do not cut the wire, then wrap the zeitronix red wire around the power wire and solder it all together. Wrap neatly with electrical tape afterwards. You can also use a crimp type connector or vampire taps:






There is a ground location down by the carpet on the floor where 2 wires are already going for ground. Connect the Zeitronix black wire (ground) there. You should at this point have both the red and black wires hooked up (power and ground). The boost sensor will connect to the brown, yellow, and orange wires on the ZT2 harness. Solder these together or use some kind of quick-disconnect. I used a 3 wire trailer hitch quick disconnect from Autozone. Also plug the wideband into the ZT2 controller and the display/logger connection.

If you purchased an Exhaust Gas Temperature probe, that can be plugged in at this point to the controller.

There are several other inputs on the ZT2:
- The Blue wire can be used for Coolant Temp, Oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, etc. Refer to the documentation for more information.
-The Gray wire can be run to the ECU for the Throttle position, and the Green wire goes to the ECU for RPM. ECU pinout diagram is here: http://roadraceengineering.com/evox/...-ecuwiring.htm
-If you are going to be using the Zeitronix logger software, having the RPM and TPS hooked up is very useful.

Ziptie the controller to the metal bracket, and tidy up the wires.
Looks something like this when you are all done:







There are several types of displays offered for the ZT2 system, here are the two most common styles (square LCD multi-display, and the round LED multi-display). You can mount them wherever you like. I think they fit nicely just under the radio and you can pull up on the dash trim and stuff the wire under there as shown by the red highlight:










Reinstall the Sirius receiver if you removed one, and you can start putting the panels back on:









If you did everything successfully, the display will power on when you turn the key to the ON position, and you will be able to read boost and wideband. Refer to the ZT2 instructions for operation and datalogging information...

Fully installed, showing the wire routing:










Video showing the Zeitronix round LED Multi-display installed:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zby-M1hEpo8

01CBR929

iTrader: (8)

I like how to routed the wires. Ummmm... not sure if mounting the wideband in the rear o2 bung is so hot. That is since it looks like you're still rocking the stock cat. I believe that throws them off, making them read leaner than your car truely is.

Blak94GSX

With the wideband sensor behind/in the cat it will read a bit leaner. It is similar to tuning on a dyno with the wideband probe in the tailpipe.

Frankiago

iTrader: (2)

You are f'n awesome. I have been dragging *** on finishing this install, this is the motivation I needed to finally finish the wiring/routing. ZT-2 w/ wideband, EGT and boost sensors ALL INSTALLED ALREADY... just not wired in

ravenjam

With removing the stock o2 sensor, do you have to disable something in the ECU?

Blak94GSX

Yes, you can use the Rear O2 fix in the ROMs. You can leave the sensor plugged in, but not connected to the exhaust system. Same thing as if you had a testpipe/catless downpipe.

gumdo2000

great write up. thanks.

Ambiguous

Can you re-host the pictures, I will be doing this exact install over the weekend and having pics as reference would be really helpful.

Wraiths_Zero

iTrader: (3)

Nice write up!!!

sun_ice4

iTrader: (2)

Great writeup! Nice to see a way thru the firewall on the passenger side.

Eshark

iTrader: (18)

Nice write up. I believe I tapped the power into the correct red wire you mentioned, but the ZT2 is not powering up. I have a pre 2009 model from my old Evo 8 and its been sitting in the top of my closet for the last 5 years, so I'm not 100% its working. Before buying a new unit, I wanted to trouble shoot this one.

Anyone have issues with tapping in this location for power? My radio and air bag panel is not plugged in right now, would this matter?

NFSLancerRA

iTrader: (8)

I had this issue as well. I eventually gave up and wired the ZT-2 into an accessory slot in the fuse box. Works just fine.

Blak94GSX

You can check to see if that wire is supplying power with a voltmeter or test light. I'm not sure if that wire is still "hot" if you remove the radio harness.

You can use any 12v source.

Eshark

iTrader: (18)

Radio is back in and still no go. I'm going to get the volt meter out tonight, if that doesn't work I'm going to the fuse box.

Good to know others had issues with this wire location. Blak94GSX do you have Nav? I wonder if that wire is for Nav or satellite radio, and is why it may only work in some vehicles.

Thanks for the help.

Eshark

iTrader: (18)

FYI. That wire was not "hot" on my car. I just picked up a fuse tap, and everything is working.