Fotune Auto 500 coilovers.. Creaking sound, ALREADY?!?
Nov 11, 2012, 07:43 PM
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Fotune Auto 500 coilovers.. Creaking sound, ALREADY?!?
So, I have now had my coilovers on for two weeks.. I went from loving them (for three days) to absolutley regreting my purchase! These coilovers are EXTREMELY NOISY! My main problem is the fronts are creaking HORRIBLY! Any time I slightly turn the wheel either direction it makes a creaking sound. (Sounds like im on an old ship) I have adjusted the preload 3 different times, greased them, and re tightened everything. And the sound is still there?! It's pretty bad that these are only two weeks old and I have already had to perform this much maintanance on them! Any ideas what would be making this creaking noise? (It is DEFINITELY the coilovers btw)
Nov 11, 2012, 09:32 PM
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Torrington bearing is a want. Not a need, but helps tremendously on the "noise". The coils are the best out there for the buck, but for everyday driving, you need the bearings. Just call them and explain your situation and I'm sure they will help out.
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Nov 13, 2012, 05:29 PM
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I'm on my second full year with standard 500 series FA coilovers. They were installed as received. I had some minor creaking initially, but fixed it by applying more preload on the springs - about ten full turns from initial perch to spring contact on all 4 corners, as recommended by a tech at FA. Since then absolutely no noise.
About a year ago, the front left started to clunk when going over bumps. Turned out that I lost about a 1/2 turn on the main strut nut - the lock nut that cinches down the strut to the camber plate. A quick turn of the wrench and no more clunk. Since then, no other issues.
From road racing in the summer to cruising in the dead of winter, these coilovers have served me right for two years. Not trying to be a fan boy - just a sample of one very happy FA customer.
About a year ago, the front left started to clunk when going over bumps. Turned out that I lost about a 1/2 turn on the main strut nut - the lock nut that cinches down the strut to the camber plate. A quick turn of the wrench and no more clunk. Since then, no other issues.
From road racing in the summer to cruising in the dead of winter, these coilovers have served me right for two years. Not trying to be a fan boy - just a sample of one very happy FA customer.
Nov 14, 2012, 07:25 AM
#10
I'm on my second full year with standard 500 series FA coilovers. They were installed as received. I had some minor creaking initially, but fixed it by applying more preload on the springs - about ten full turns from initial perch to spring contact on all 4 corners, as recommended by a tech at FA. Since then absolutely no noise.
Remember, folks: you only actually change the force stored in the spring at static ride height (from being equal to the sprung weight of the corner) when you set up the coilovers so radically that you have zero available extension travel.
Last edited by Iowa999; Nov 14, 2012 at 07:46 AM.
Nov 14, 2012, 07:45 AM
#11
I know that the above is confusing to many people. The problem is that people often think about preload in the wrong way.
The way that preload - as a word - is most often used is that it is the amount of force stored in the spring when the shock is fully extended. This usage of the word is actually useful, because this really does vary across set-ups and is important to keeping everything lined up when the suspension is at fully droop.
The problem comes in when people jump from the above to the idea that preload, as defined above, has anything to do with the forces stored in the spring when the car is sitting on the ground. It doesn't. (Or, more precisely: it only affects this when the preload, as defined above, is equal to or greater than the sprung corner weight. But, since no-one is silly enough to set a car up this way, the short answer - that preload has nothing to do with the force stored in the spring when the car is sitting on its wheels is generall true.)
Why am I going on about this? Because several people in several different threads have suggested - at least, indirectly - that changes in preload has an effect on the car when it's back on its wheels. Well, it doesn't. What preload actually changes is how much of the total suspension travel is available for bump vs rebound.
The way that preload - as a word - is most often used is that it is the amount of force stored in the spring when the shock is fully extended. This usage of the word is actually useful, because this really does vary across set-ups and is important to keeping everything lined up when the suspension is at fully droop.
The problem comes in when people jump from the above to the idea that preload, as defined above, has anything to do with the forces stored in the spring when the car is sitting on the ground. It doesn't. (Or, more precisely: it only affects this when the preload, as defined above, is equal to or greater than the sprung corner weight. But, since no-one is silly enough to set a car up this way, the short answer - that preload has nothing to do with the force stored in the spring when the car is sitting on its wheels is generall true.)
Why am I going on about this? Because several people in several different threads have suggested - at least, indirectly - that changes in preload has an effect on the car when it's back on its wheels. Well, it doesn't. What preload actually changes is how much of the total suspension travel is available for bump vs rebound.
Nov 14, 2012, 08:22 AM
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What you're saying makes sense, at least looking at it in a static way. Dynamically (spring moving up and down) the effect may change a little, especially when close to reaching full travel on the coilover.
However, I'm no expert. I just wanted to share what seemed like was an instant problem solving recommendation from an FA technician, after I encountered the same creaking issue as the OP.
However, I'm no expert. I just wanted to share what seemed like was an instant problem solving recommendation from an FA technician, after I encountered the same creaking issue as the OP.
Nov 14, 2012, 10:16 AM
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This is common on a strut based vehicle with coilovers. What is happening is when you turn the wheel the spring / shock is turning. When the spring turns it rotating on the spring perch. This causes the spring to drag on the perch resulting in a annoying noise. It mostly happens when pulling in and out of a parking space or driving at low speeds.
The swift thrust sheets will help but not by much. The best solution is torrington roller bearings. Fortune Auto happens to offer this upgrade and recommends it for Evo's. As Piro pointed out you can purchase the roller bearings from Fortune Auto directly. Make sure to grease the bearings with a thick lithium grease before installing. It will quite the noise down considerably
If you have any questions call the tech line at Fortune. They are extremely helpful.
The swift thrust sheets will help but not by much. The best solution is torrington roller bearings. Fortune Auto happens to offer this upgrade and recommends it for Evo's. As Piro pointed out you can purchase the roller bearings from Fortune Auto directly. Make sure to grease the bearings with a thick lithium grease before installing. It will quite the noise down considerably
If you have any questions call the tech line at Fortune. They are extremely helpful.
Nov 14, 2012, 11:32 AM
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I know that the above is confusing to many people. The problem is that people often think about preload in the wrong way.
The way that preload - as a word - is most often used is that it is the amount of force stored in the spring when the shock is fully extended. This usage of the word is actually useful, because this really does vary across set-ups and is important to keeping everything lined up when the suspension is at fully droop.
The problem comes in when people jump from the above to the idea that preload, as defined above, has anything to do with the forces stored in the spring when the car is sitting on the ground. It doesn't. (Or, more precisely: it only affects this when the preload, as defined above, is equal to or greater than the sprung corner weight. But, since no-one is silly enough to set a car up this way, the short answer - that preload has nothing to do with the force stored in the spring when the car is sitting on its wheels is generall true.)
Why am I going on about this? Because several people in several different threads have suggested - at least, indirectly - that changes in preload has an effect on the car when it's back on its wheels. Well, it doesn't. What preload actually changes is how much of the total suspension travel is available for bump vs rebound.
The way that preload - as a word - is most often used is that it is the amount of force stored in the spring when the shock is fully extended. This usage of the word is actually useful, because this really does vary across set-ups and is important to keeping everything lined up when the suspension is at fully droop.
The problem comes in when people jump from the above to the idea that preload, as defined above, has anything to do with the forces stored in the spring when the car is sitting on the ground. It doesn't. (Or, more precisely: it only affects this when the preload, as defined above, is equal to or greater than the sprung corner weight. But, since no-one is silly enough to set a car up this way, the short answer - that preload has nothing to do with the force stored in the spring when the car is sitting on its wheels is generall true.)
Why am I going on about this? Because several people in several different threads have suggested - at least, indirectly - that changes in preload has an effect on the car when it's back on its wheels. Well, it doesn't. What preload actually changes is how much of the total suspension travel is available for bump vs rebound.