blower motor bulletin
Sep 28, 2009, 04:56 AM
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blower motor bulletin
Has anyone done this bulletin? I was wondering how long it takes. As the pictures aren't the best. I rather have some list me the simple steps.
Gf's lancer has had a hard time swtiching temps for a while. i found it was due to dirt getting into the motor or switch. There was a bulletion out but she is out of warranty. I told her to just live with it and she did. Then she broke the knob for the temp sensor because it was binding so bad. So now i need a new HVAC control ( let me know if you guys have one) and i need to do this bulletin
This is the bulletin.
No: TSB-055-003
DATE: December, 2005
MODEL: See below
SUBJECT:
HEATER TEMPERATURE DIAL
HARD TO TURN
This TSB supercedes TSB-04-55-003, issued March, 2004, to add new heater blend door replacement procedures and information, and to update the affected vehicles.
PURPOSE
The heater temperature dial on some affected vehicles may be difficult to turn. This is caused by the heater air blend door link and lever binding, or a dirty and/or damaged blend door gear track preventing the door from moving freely.
To prevent this condition, install a new, improved heater blend door as described in this bulletin.
If a customer complains that the heater temperature dial is difficult to turn:
^ Install the new, improved heater blend door (listed in the PARTS INFORMATION section of this bulletin).
^ For 2002-2003 models only, if the vehicle has NOT already had the heater air blend link and lever replaced as described in TSB-04-55-003, replace the heater air blend link and lever.
On vehicles that do not have a blower motor housing filter already installed as original equipment, install a filter to the top of the blower motor housing, to prevent entry of dirt and debris.
AFFECTED VEHICLES
2002-on Lancer and Lancer Evolution
2003-on Outlander
PROCEDURE
1. Remove the heater case from the vehicle as follows. Refer to Group 55 in the service manual.
a. Discharge and recover the refrigerant.
b. Clamp the heater inlet and outlet hoses near the bulkhead and remove the hoses from the heater core pipes.
c. Disconnect the A/C pipes and remove the expansion valve block.
d. Remove the instrument panel. Refer to Group 52A in the service manual.
e. Remove the heater case assembly.
2. Remove the seal from the case and discard it.
3. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry off the clip.
4. Remove the connector.
Do not remove the fin temperature sensors from the evaporator. If a sensor location is changed, compressor failure may result.
Do not remove the fin temperature sensors from the evaporator. If a sensor location is changed, compressor failure may result.
5. Remove the temperature control linkages and gear.
6. Position the heater case on the bench with the control linkage gear side facing down.
7. Open the case. Remove and discard the blend door assembly. Do not remove the mode doors.
8. Install the new blend door (provided in the heater blend door kit listed in the PARTS INFORMATION section of this bulletin). Use the location pins on the door to align it properly.
9. Move the blend door all the way to the left. Then install the gear.
10. 2002-2003 MODELS ONLY
If the vehicle has NOT already had the heater blend link and lever replaced as described in TSB-04-55-003:
Use the heater air blend link and lever kit listed in the PARTS INFORMATION section of this bulletin.
Apply a small amount of grease to the slot in the new door link, and to the gearteeth on the new lever.
Install the new link and lever to the heater box.
11. Adjust the gear so that the raised dot on the gear is aligned with the notch in the blend door as shown.
IMPORTANT :The raised dot on the gear for the door track must be aligned with the notch in the door lever to achieve proper timing. If the link and lever are not installed properly, binding will result.
12. Install the new seal provided in the heater blend door kit.
13. Reassemble the case. Use all of the screws provided in the kit, as there may be one or more broken case tabs. Be sure that there are no gaps after reassembly.
14. Reinstall the heater case and expansion valve block. Reconnect the hoses and pipes. Reinstall the instrument panel.
15. On vehicles that do not have a blower motor housing filter already installed as original equipment, install a blower motor housing filter as follows:
a. Remove the glove box lid.
b. Use a knife to cut a section from the top of the blower motor housing, along the perforated lines as shown.
c. Install the filter with the air flow directional arrow pointing down.
d. Secure the filter with two 5X14 self-tapping screws listed in the PARTS INFORMATION section of this bulletin.
PARTS INFORMATION
Use the Genuine Mitsubishi Parts listed.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Special Warranty Information: On vehicles that do not have a blower motor housing filter already installed as original equipment, the filter installation described in this TSB should only be done on a customer complaint basis and may be claimed as part of this HVAC system warranty repair. However, future replacements of these installed filters are considered a customer maintenance expense just like any other vehicle filter (oil, air, fuel, etc.).
On vehicles with blower motor housing filters already installed as original equipment, filter replacement is considered a not warrantable customer maintenance item.
Gf's lancer has had a hard time swtiching temps for a while. i found it was due to dirt getting into the motor or switch. There was a bulletion out but she is out of warranty. I told her to just live with it and she did. Then she broke the knob for the temp sensor because it was binding so bad. So now i need a new HVAC control ( let me know if you guys have one) and i need to do this bulletin
This is the bulletin.
No: TSB-055-003
DATE: December, 2005
MODEL: See below
SUBJECT:
HEATER TEMPERATURE DIAL
HARD TO TURN
This TSB supercedes TSB-04-55-003, issued March, 2004, to add new heater blend door replacement procedures and information, and to update the affected vehicles.
PURPOSE
The heater temperature dial on some affected vehicles may be difficult to turn. This is caused by the heater air blend door link and lever binding, or a dirty and/or damaged blend door gear track preventing the door from moving freely.
To prevent this condition, install a new, improved heater blend door as described in this bulletin.
If a customer complains that the heater temperature dial is difficult to turn:
^ Install the new, improved heater blend door (listed in the PARTS INFORMATION section of this bulletin).
^ For 2002-2003 models only, if the vehicle has NOT already had the heater air blend link and lever replaced as described in TSB-04-55-003, replace the heater air blend link and lever.
On vehicles that do not have a blower motor housing filter already installed as original equipment, install a filter to the top of the blower motor housing, to prevent entry of dirt and debris.
AFFECTED VEHICLES
2002-on Lancer and Lancer Evolution
2003-on Outlander
PROCEDURE
1. Remove the heater case from the vehicle as follows. Refer to Group 55 in the service manual.
a. Discharge and recover the refrigerant.
b. Clamp the heater inlet and outlet hoses near the bulkhead and remove the hoses from the heater core pipes.
c. Disconnect the A/C pipes and remove the expansion valve block.
d. Remove the instrument panel. Refer to Group 52A in the service manual.
e. Remove the heater case assembly.
2. Remove the seal from the case and discard it.
3. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry off the clip.
4. Remove the connector.
Do not remove the fin temperature sensors from the evaporator. If a sensor location is changed, compressor failure may result.
Do not remove the fin temperature sensors from the evaporator. If a sensor location is changed, compressor failure may result.
5. Remove the temperature control linkages and gear.
6. Position the heater case on the bench with the control linkage gear side facing down.
7. Open the case. Remove and discard the blend door assembly. Do not remove the mode doors.
8. Install the new blend door (provided in the heater blend door kit listed in the PARTS INFORMATION section of this bulletin). Use the location pins on the door to align it properly.
9. Move the blend door all the way to the left. Then install the gear.
10. 2002-2003 MODELS ONLY
If the vehicle has NOT already had the heater blend link and lever replaced as described in TSB-04-55-003:
Use the heater air blend link and lever kit listed in the PARTS INFORMATION section of this bulletin.
Apply a small amount of grease to the slot in the new door link, and to the gearteeth on the new lever.
Install the new link and lever to the heater box.
11. Adjust the gear so that the raised dot on the gear is aligned with the notch in the blend door as shown.
IMPORTANT :The raised dot on the gear for the door track must be aligned with the notch in the door lever to achieve proper timing. If the link and lever are not installed properly, binding will result.
12. Install the new seal provided in the heater blend door kit.
13. Reassemble the case. Use all of the screws provided in the kit, as there may be one or more broken case tabs. Be sure that there are no gaps after reassembly.
14. Reinstall the heater case and expansion valve block. Reconnect the hoses and pipes. Reinstall the instrument panel.
15. On vehicles that do not have a blower motor housing filter already installed as original equipment, install a blower motor housing filter as follows:
a. Remove the glove box lid.
b. Use a knife to cut a section from the top of the blower motor housing, along the perforated lines as shown.
c. Install the filter with the air flow directional arrow pointing down.
d. Secure the filter with two 5X14 self-tapping screws listed in the PARTS INFORMATION section of this bulletin.
PARTS INFORMATION
Use the Genuine Mitsubishi Parts listed.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Special Warranty Information: On vehicles that do not have a blower motor housing filter already installed as original equipment, the filter installation described in this TSB should only be done on a customer complaint basis and may be claimed as part of this HVAC system warranty repair. However, future replacements of these installed filters are considered a customer maintenance expense just like any other vehicle filter (oil, air, fuel, etc.).
On vehicles with blower motor housing filters already installed as original equipment, filter replacement is considered a not warrantable customer maintenance item.
Sep 29, 2009, 07:39 PM
#2
Ya I have the same problem with my knob it broke if u go under the steering wheel u can see the level and switch it back and forth from a/c to heater lol. If its not under warranty it cost around i believe $1000+ to get it fixed because they have to supposedly take out the whole console area. There's the thread somewhere around here. Just too lazy to look. Cheers.
Sep 30, 2009, 06:00 AM
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I have the same problem. (2003 Lancer - I don't have a warranty)
I just got the car back after droping it off this morning at 6:30am
An hr and a half later they call saying I need to replace
Blend door kit, lever, temp cable, filter evap cor., & lines, also need freon.
Est: 2141.00 Includes tax
Under the above TSB, what is the Parts information?
Is this the Filter Evap cor. ?
I just got the car back after droping it off this morning at 6:30am
An hr and a half later they call saying I need to replace
Blend door kit, lever, temp cable, filter evap cor., & lines, also need freon.
Est: 2141.00 Includes tax
Under the above TSB, what is the Parts information?
Is this the Filter Evap cor. ?
Last edited by nmayes; Sep 30, 2009 at 07:39 AM.
Oct 1, 2009, 11:39 PM
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I think if this happened to my Lancer it would be the straw that broke the camels back and the Lancer would find itself being traded. So far in 5 months Ive already had to change windshield wipers, alternator belt, timing belt, serpentine belt, front rotors, brake pads, drums , battery and new tires. Anyway I dont think Id be willing to put another 2,000+ in air conditioning work in a 2003 car worth only 5,000 bucks. At this point though I have to much invested in fixing my Lancer that it not practical to sell it without taking a large monetary loss in the process, how much more so if put 2000+ in ac work into it.
Oct 1, 2009, 11:43 PM
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Hey Nmays,
The one almost looks like a cabin filter, it goes behind the clove box but on our car you must use a box cutter or exacto knife etc and cut out the location for it which isnt hard as the lines already exist so you just need to follow them. Once cut out put cabin filter in and secure it with self tapping screws, its not a hard job at all and well worth the work, btw buy the cabin filter off of ebay rather than the dealer as its much cheaper, I think I got mine on ebay at something like 12 bucks BIN including free shipping.
The one almost looks like a cabin filter, it goes behind the clove box but on our car you must use a box cutter or exacto knife etc and cut out the location for it which isnt hard as the lines already exist so you just need to follow them. Once cut out put cabin filter in and secure it with self tapping screws, its not a hard job at all and well worth the work, btw buy the cabin filter off of ebay rather than the dealer as its much cheaper, I think I got mine on ebay at something like 12 bucks BIN including free shipping.
Oct 1, 2009, 11:59 PM
#6
I think if this happened to my Lancer it would be the straw that broke the camels back and the Lancer would find itself being traded. So far in 5 months Ive already had to change windshield wipers, alternator belt, timing belt, serpentine belt, front rotors, brake pads, drums , battery and new tires. Anyway I dont think Id be willing to put another 2,000+ in air conditioning work in a 2003 car worth only 5,000 bucks. At this point though I have to much invested in fixing my Lancer that it not practical to sell it without taking a large monetary loss in the process, how much more so if put 2000+ in ac work into it.
Hey Nmays,
The one almost looks like a cabin filter, it goes behind the clove box but on our car you must use a box cutter or exacto knife etc and cut out the location for it which isnt hard as the lines already exist so you just need to follow them. Once cut out put cabin filter in and secure it with self tapping screws, its not a hard job at all and well worth the work, btw buy the cabin filter off of ebay rather than the dealer as its much cheaper, I think I got mine on ebay at something like 12 bucks BIN including free shipping.
The one almost looks like a cabin filter, it goes behind the clove box but on our car you must use a box cutter or exacto knife etc and cut out the location for it which isnt hard as the lines already exist so you just need to follow them. Once cut out put cabin filter in and secure it with self tapping screws, its not a hard job at all and well worth the work, btw buy the cabin filter off of ebay rather than the dealer as its much cheaper, I think I got mine on ebay at something like 12 bucks BIN including free shipping.
Thats stupid because everything you listed is maintenance if it needed all that it means you bought it from someone that didnt care but every car needs these parts from time to time .
Kind of surprised you didn't put gas and oil change on there !
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Oct 2, 2009, 12:58 AM
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02 Lancer ES,
Yes the things Ive done have just been normal maintenance stuff related to normal wear and tear but in no way do I see where it would be logical to put 2,000 bucks or more in AC work in a car that you can buy 7 days a week at 5,000 or less. Seems if car has major issue like AC stuff needing done and person lives in a hot climate then it may well be better to sell the car, add the cash to it and buy something new with warranty. Oh and btw my Lancer does get terrible gas mileage for a little econobox as only gets about 18 miles per gallon when I see other cars getting 30+.
I ain't complaining about the regular maintenance stuff nor the gas mileage though but am simply saying Id not invest 2,000 dollars or more replacing AC components in a 5,000 dollar car, thats my statement and my belief, yours may be different but for sure I am entitled to my opinion.
Yes the things Ive done have just been normal maintenance stuff related to normal wear and tear but in no way do I see where it would be logical to put 2,000 bucks or more in AC work in a car that you can buy 7 days a week at 5,000 or less. Seems if car has major issue like AC stuff needing done and person lives in a hot climate then it may well be better to sell the car, add the cash to it and buy something new with warranty. Oh and btw my Lancer does get terrible gas mileage for a little econobox as only gets about 18 miles per gallon when I see other cars getting 30+.
I ain't complaining about the regular maintenance stuff nor the gas mileage though but am simply saying Id not invest 2,000 dollars or more replacing AC components in a 5,000 dollar car, thats my statement and my belief, yours may be different but for sure I am entitled to my opinion.
Oct 2, 2009, 01:06 AM
#9
02 Lancer ES,
Yes the things Ive done have just been normal maintenance stuff related to normal wear and tear but in no way do I see where it would be logical to put 2,000 bucks or more in AC work in a car that you can buy 7 days a week at 5,000 or less. Seems if car has major issue like AC stuff needing done and person lives in a hot climate then it may well be better to sell the car, add the cash to it and buy something new with warranty. Oh and btw my Lancer does get terrible gas mileage for a little econobox as only gets about 18 miles per gallon when I see other cars getting 30+.
I ain't complaining about the regular maintenance stuff nor the gas mileage though but am simply saying Id not invest 2,000 dollars or more replacing AC components in a 5,000 dollar car, thats my statement and my belief, yours may be different but for sure I am entitled to my opinion.
Yes the things Ive done have just been normal maintenance stuff related to normal wear and tear but in no way do I see where it would be logical to put 2,000 bucks or more in AC work in a car that you can buy 7 days a week at 5,000 or less. Seems if car has major issue like AC stuff needing done and person lives in a hot climate then it may well be better to sell the car, add the cash to it and buy something new with warranty. Oh and btw my Lancer does get terrible gas mileage for a little econobox as only gets about 18 miles per gallon when I see other cars getting 30+.
I ain't complaining about the regular maintenance stuff nor the gas mileage though but am simply saying Id not invest 2,000 dollars or more replacing AC components in a 5,000 dollar car, thats my statement and my belief, yours may be different but for sure I am entitled to my opinion.
Oct 2, 2009, 01:08 AM
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O3,
Yes regular maintenance but to be honest I didn't think Id be spending 2,500 on maintaining a 5,000 car after only 5 months of ownership, that said I do realize it routine stuff but none the less if had to do it over Id not have bought the car.
Back to the point Id sure not spend 2,000+ in lump sum to fix the AC on a car worth 5,000 (or less) and I think that sum of money would be considerable amount to most those who would be reading this thread because if flush with cash most wouldn't be driving cars 7 to 8 yrs old but would be behind wheel of a new Evo or something.
Anyway, If my AC broke and I was told it cost 2,000 or more to fix my car would be sold and the money put towards a nice dp on a late model car of some kind, with warranty, others may do differently but for me I have no emotional attachment to my car and well its replaceable if AC breaks.
Yes regular maintenance but to be honest I didn't think Id be spending 2,500 on maintaining a 5,000 car after only 5 months of ownership, that said I do realize it routine stuff but none the less if had to do it over Id not have bought the car.
Back to the point Id sure not spend 2,000+ in lump sum to fix the AC on a car worth 5,000 (or less) and I think that sum of money would be considerable amount to most those who would be reading this thread because if flush with cash most wouldn't be driving cars 7 to 8 yrs old but would be behind wheel of a new Evo or something.
Anyway, If my AC broke and I was told it cost 2,000 or more to fix my car would be sold and the money put towards a nice dp on a late model car of some kind, with warranty, others may do differently but for me I have no emotional attachment to my car and well its replaceable if AC breaks.
Oct 2, 2009, 01:20 AM
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03,
Regarding the 2000+ in AC work, was referring to what Id do in NMayes position as he was stating about getting a estimate for "2141.00 Includes tax" for some AC repairs and asking what the thing in picture, that looks like a cabin filter, is. Thankfully my AC works and since I live in AZ where heat gets up to 120 the car would be promptly sold if AC didn't work and cost 2141 to fix.
Regarding the gas mileage, Yeah no joke, my mini van gets around same gas mileage lol. On another thread I asked about the gas mileage of others and it seemed that the automatics got far less mileage though on mine it seems really bad, allot of it may be because I dont drive with sanity most the time though I do plan to change plugs etc to see if it helps. My guess is car prolly has had the same plugs, plug wires, coils, hoses etc since new as when I got it there was 97,000 miles on it and original brake pads on it still that where down to bare metal pretty much and original timing belt as well.
I dont complain much about the gas mileage though as the Lancer is basically a spare cdar and dont drive it enough to complain about mileage as have only driven it 800 miles in last almost 6 months I owned it. For that matter have another car Ive only driven 15,000 miles in 4 yrs so not driving much , gas mileage isn't a huge concern really. Though it will be of more concern next year when the Lancer starts being driven more often.
Regarding the 2000+ in AC work, was referring to what Id do in NMayes position as he was stating about getting a estimate for "2141.00 Includes tax" for some AC repairs and asking what the thing in picture, that looks like a cabin filter, is. Thankfully my AC works and since I live in AZ where heat gets up to 120 the car would be promptly sold if AC didn't work and cost 2141 to fix.
Regarding the gas mileage, Yeah no joke, my mini van gets around same gas mileage lol. On another thread I asked about the gas mileage of others and it seemed that the automatics got far less mileage though on mine it seems really bad, allot of it may be because I dont drive with sanity most the time though I do plan to change plugs etc to see if it helps. My guess is car prolly has had the same plugs, plug wires, coils, hoses etc since new as when I got it there was 97,000 miles on it and original brake pads on it still that where down to bare metal pretty much and original timing belt as well.
I dont complain much about the gas mileage though as the Lancer is basically a spare cdar and dont drive it enough to complain about mileage as have only driven it 800 miles in last almost 6 months I owned it. For that matter have another car Ive only driven 15,000 miles in 4 yrs so not driving much , gas mileage isn't a huge concern really. Though it will be of more concern next year when the Lancer starts being driven more often.
Oct 2, 2009, 01:33 AM
#12
Sounds like my truck, I have had it for over a year and have put about 2000 miles on it and thats only because I helped a friend move which was about a 15 hour round trip. Ya I remember that thread I think I posted mine on there and I noticed too about the autos in general getting worse mileage. Luckily for me I am a mechanic and so for me to fix a a/c would be probably 1/10th the price maybe? I have a new timing belt and head gasket going in my car as it has 83k on it now and about to go turbo. I am not liking my dodge though I think when I pay it down some more I am getting rid of it for a new or maybe 1 or 2 year old Tacoma. I had a 99 Jeep grand cherokee ltd and my warranty co. paid out $2400 to change one yes ONE ac hose and one of the 2 motors in my drivers seat I just about fell over cause I only had to pay $60.
Oct 2, 2009, 01:47 AM
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03,
Yes being a mechanic would make it way cheaper as the mechanic shops around here charge around 100 a hour for labor. When I was living in Mississippi could find many good mechanics who did side jobs for cheap but here in AZ I haven't found any yet. There are some mechanics here that call themselves mobile mechanics but they aren't cheap. A example is I got a 480 dollar quote after 50 dollar coupon from brakes plus to fix the brakes (and evac and recharge ac) and decided to call a mobile mechanic who asked 275 labor only with me buying parts, it worked out to more than brakes plus so the car went to brakes plus. I changed the brake pads myself though with the direction I found on this website so that saved like 140 bucks off the brakes plus original price quote and was amazed how easy it was to change the pads, did both in around 30-45 mins, when using the directions in how to section. I was into cars a bit when much younger but thankfully at that time labor was no worry as lived in a country where could hire a mechanic, body man and have them work a 12hr day for 3 dollars labor.
Regarding that warranty co, Is it like the ones I see on TV that insure used cars for mechanical stuff? If so how much where the premiums and which company did you use? I ask as have been thinking of asking about that because if premiums are not to high I could maybe save some of the 500 a month its been costing to due the work the old owner neglected and in the process actually find myself having some extra money to mod the car with as its still bone stock.
Also, What kind of 1/4 mile times will you get with the turbo and what is fasted lancer time on this forum? I have often wondered that as have read on these forums that the Lancer doesn't really show much gains with the normal bolt-on mods.
Yes being a mechanic would make it way cheaper as the mechanic shops around here charge around 100 a hour for labor. When I was living in Mississippi could find many good mechanics who did side jobs for cheap but here in AZ I haven't found any yet. There are some mechanics here that call themselves mobile mechanics but they aren't cheap. A example is I got a 480 dollar quote after 50 dollar coupon from brakes plus to fix the brakes (and evac and recharge ac) and decided to call a mobile mechanic who asked 275 labor only with me buying parts, it worked out to more than brakes plus so the car went to brakes plus. I changed the brake pads myself though with the direction I found on this website so that saved like 140 bucks off the brakes plus original price quote and was amazed how easy it was to change the pads, did both in around 30-45 mins, when using the directions in how to section. I was into cars a bit when much younger but thankfully at that time labor was no worry as lived in a country where could hire a mechanic, body man and have them work a 12hr day for 3 dollars labor.
Regarding that warranty co, Is it like the ones I see on TV that insure used cars for mechanical stuff? If so how much where the premiums and which company did you use? I ask as have been thinking of asking about that because if premiums are not to high I could maybe save some of the 500 a month its been costing to due the work the old owner neglected and in the process actually find myself having some extra money to mod the car with as its still bone stock.
Also, What kind of 1/4 mile times will you get with the turbo and what is fasted lancer time on this forum? I have often wondered that as have read on these forums that the Lancer doesn't really show much gains with the normal bolt-on mods.
Last edited by justin.AZ; Oct 2, 2009 at 02:00 AM.
Oct 2, 2009, 02:45 AM
#14
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i feel your pain justin. i had mine for not even a year.
Ive had to get:
-new tires
-new windshield wipers
-new spark plugs
-new radiator cap
-new clutch
-new timing belt
-two new clutch slave cylinders
-my transmission cleaned up
ive been through two clutch slave cylinders and i still haven't figured out why they keep messing up. my ac is broken and so is my heater. im trying to sell my car right now cuz its just not worth iit anymore. bought it for 3'gs and i have put in over 2'gs to get it into good shape and its still not working right.
Ive had to get:
-new tires
-new windshield wipers
-new spark plugs
-new radiator cap
-new clutch
-new timing belt
-two new clutch slave cylinders
-my transmission cleaned up
ive been through two clutch slave cylinders and i still haven't figured out why they keep messing up. my ac is broken and so is my heater. im trying to sell my car right now cuz its just not worth iit anymore. bought it for 3'gs and i have put in over 2'gs to get it into good shape and its still not working right.
Oct 2, 2009, 11:02 AM
#15
The warranty was offered to me when I purchased the jeep as it had only 49k mi at the time, cant remember the company at the moment, I can find out. I remember the first time anything broke it was a $250 deductible then $25 or $50 after that. Ya shops are a big rip, I charge $30/hr and the amount of hours the book says it will take so sometimes I lose my a$$ and other times I can get it done way sooner. I feel your pain with neglected cars, mine was the ultimate for this for real. However I knew exactly what I was getting into cause my initial cost to buy my car was a whopping $700!!!!! I have posted on some other threads my experiences with getting it up and running.
This is what I understand too regarding the bolt ons is it is not worth it at all if you expect any major improvement. This is why I went straight from bone stock to boost. I plan on having anywhere from 200 to 220 whp after I tune it really nice.
This is what I understand too regarding the bolt ons is it is not worth it at all if you expect any major improvement. This is why I went straight from bone stock to boost. I plan on having anywhere from 200 to 220 whp after I tune it really nice.
03,
Yes being a mechanic would make it way cheaper as the mechanic shops around here charge around 100 a hour for labor. When I was living in Mississippi could find many good mechanics who did side jobs for cheap but here in AZ I haven't found any yet. There are some mechanics here that call themselves mobile mechanics but they aren't cheap. A example is I got a 480 dollar quote after 50 dollar coupon from brakes plus to fix the brakes (and evac and recharge ac) and decided to call a mobile mechanic who asked 275 labor only with me buying parts, it worked out to more than brakes plus so the car went to brakes plus. I changed the brake pads myself though with the direction I found on this website so that saved like 140 bucks off the brakes plus original price quote and was amazed how easy it was to change the pads, did both in around 30-45 mins, when using the directions in how to section. I was into cars a bit when much younger but thankfully at that time labor was no worry as lived in a country where could hire a mechanic, body man and have them work a 12hr day for 3 dollars labor.
Regarding that warranty co, Is it like the ones I see on TV that insure used cars for mechanical stuff? If so how much where the premiums and which company did you use? I ask as have been thinking of asking about that because if premiums are not to high I could maybe save some of the 500 a month its been costing to due the work the old owner neglected and in the process actually find myself having some extra money to mod the car with as its still bone stock.
Also, What kind of 1/4 mile times will you get with the turbo and what is fasted lancer time on this forum? I have often wondered that as have read on these forums that the Lancer doesn't really show much gains with the normal bolt-on mods.
Yes being a mechanic would make it way cheaper as the mechanic shops around here charge around 100 a hour for labor. When I was living in Mississippi could find many good mechanics who did side jobs for cheap but here in AZ I haven't found any yet. There are some mechanics here that call themselves mobile mechanics but they aren't cheap. A example is I got a 480 dollar quote after 50 dollar coupon from brakes plus to fix the brakes (and evac and recharge ac) and decided to call a mobile mechanic who asked 275 labor only with me buying parts, it worked out to more than brakes plus so the car went to brakes plus. I changed the brake pads myself though with the direction I found on this website so that saved like 140 bucks off the brakes plus original price quote and was amazed how easy it was to change the pads, did both in around 30-45 mins, when using the directions in how to section. I was into cars a bit when much younger but thankfully at that time labor was no worry as lived in a country where could hire a mechanic, body man and have them work a 12hr day for 3 dollars labor.
Regarding that warranty co, Is it like the ones I see on TV that insure used cars for mechanical stuff? If so how much where the premiums and which company did you use? I ask as have been thinking of asking about that because if premiums are not to high I could maybe save some of the 500 a month its been costing to due the work the old owner neglected and in the process actually find myself having some extra money to mod the car with as its still bone stock.
Also, What kind of 1/4 mile times will you get with the turbo and what is fasted lancer time on this forum? I have often wondered that as have read on these forums that the Lancer doesn't really show much gains with the normal bolt-on mods.