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Lancer Troubleshooting Get help with any troubleshooting problems you may have.

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Old Feb 4, 2010, 10:38 PM   #16
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Old Feb 5, 2010, 04:15 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by AK-47 View Post
steering is an issue as well,not responsive,harder on turns and when you brake you feel vibration in your steering wheel as well as in the brake pedal....
This is most likely caused by warped rotors, possibly bad pads.
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Old Feb 6, 2010, 07:03 AM   #18
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Just got the car back with brand new transmission. I started it at the dealership and drove it to test to see if there was still the problem. The problem still exists. My hunch is that it is the programming in the computer inside the transmission box that reacts this way from cold start when shifting in sport mode.

I have not had any speed slowing issues at all, and I fill up about 1 time per week with no gas smell. My average driving speed is about 70-80 mph highway (mostly highway driving) and 30-40 mph city driving with some stops.

Can anyone please test this in their car?

Steps to Duplicate:
From a cold start (~9hours) start the car, pull slowly out of parking space or garage. (My hunch is you need to be on level ground during this for it to work.
Drive in sport mode going ~10 mph for approximately 1-2 minutes.
Make a full and complete stop.
Give the car some gas to accelerate to (35 mph) and see if it is responsive.
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 11:46 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xCASHx View Post
just after reading this last night, today my 09 SE did the same but it started to studder when in idle, rpms reving randomly and acceleration was very slow wouldnt go over 40kms/hr.
it was just running fine and had it off for only about 15mins when it started to happen. it was really cold so at first i thought it might have been the cold.

i thought it was my resinator cuz i could smell fuel in the car when i was driving VERY slow home.
took it to mitsu dealer and the mechanic said that the engine isnt getting enough air thru the intake, which is a RRM V2 short ram and also causing my check engine light to come on.
he said clean the air filter and put the stock snorkel for the stock intake back on so more air is directed to it instead of just the air in the engine bay.

i thought he was just saying this cuz they were about to close and he didnt want to do any real work but i cleaned the filter which did look like it had a fair amount of salt dust on it. Now it works fine. i just hope thats all it really was...
Same thing has been happening to me for 4 months now. I checked the cel it threw once and it says cylinder 2 is misfiring. Since then I replaced the spark plugs and changed the oil, ect. Still happens, from what I'm guessing, it has to do with the engine being to cold and not getting enough air to the engine. I took it to the dealership but they wouldn't touch it because of my intake and radiator, but there are recalls out because of a bad tune affecting the A/F ratio at start up for emission reasons. My next thing to do is to get the relay that was in the recall and install it myself, and then get the car dynotuned by a shop. Hopefully that will take care of the issues.

As for the topic of this thread, try letting the car idle in the driveway/parking spot for 5 minutes before driving off and see if it still has the same problem.
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Old Feb 24, 2010, 04:17 PM   #20
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Seems odd though that the problem only occurs when the car is in sport mode not in regular drive.
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Old Mar 13, 2010, 03:25 PM   #21
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Hi,

I got Problems too with my Mitsubishi lancer gts 2009 with cvt and manual mode. Its an intermittent problem. Sometime, when I push the accelerator, nothing happen.

Example: I start the car, bring de car to the street, breake, turn end push accelerator, and its like nothing happen. The car speed goes around 20 km/h and Revolution going up slowly even if i push accelerator completely. It's like transmission where at 4-5 or 6th gear( Dashboard indicate Im at first gear) After 2-5 sec, the car accelerates and revolution increases normaly.

It does not happen after driving a maximum of 1 km approxively. after the car has warmed up, the problem does not start again. even when I park the car for shoping and take it again.

Most of the time, it's happening when on manual mode (happened only 2 time on automatic mode) And on first speed after pushing brakes. Since that winter has arrived, this problem occurs more often


I think that the steps to duplicate mentioned above was good:

Steps to Duplicate:
From a cold start (~9hours) start the car, pull slowly out of parking space or garage. (My hunch is you need to be on level ground during this for it to work.
Drive in sport mode going ~10 mph for approximately 1-2 minutes.
Make a full and complete stop.
Give the car some gas to accelerate to (35 mph) and see if it is responsive.

I don't know if using reverse since the start of the car affect the problem frequency.

Another problem seems to have occurred when the cold of winter arrived (automatic mode). The first time it happened, I went shopping and when I left the terminal, via the road, I press the accelerator and the engine revolution increased beyond what ' it would have normally increased. It was as if the transmission was in first gear and it last after 3-6 sec going to rev normally.


Another winter problem has also happened. When the car did not run for at least 3 to 5 minutes approximately. It is impossible to switch to manual mode. After having driven less than 1 km, I can put the car in manual mode.


It should not be any problems with the transmission fluid. I bought my car in late September and an oil change was done this winter to 6000km.

The car dealer said he can not do much because the indicator light on the dash indicating a problem does not turn on (check engine) and it is an intermittent problem. They also tell me that they have not heard of other similar cases.


But when i show them that post, they told me that their technician was aware of this information, that did not matter to them and that was not an evidence even if it's seem similar, it can origin of a different problem.
They said that if they try to find the problem and they can not find it, I will pay for everything, including the hours that the engineers have worked and the use of a courtesy car.

I'm afraid to check car garages other than those of Mitsubishi dealer because of warranty.

I do not know if the problem comes from the transmission, or an electronic problem, or anything else.

I tried to park overnight at the car dealer so they can try the morning to find the problem but the problem not occured during the test car. I think it's because of the configuration of the area around car dealer, preventing to follow steps to duplicate the problem.


It seems to me that it happen only on lancer gts, and this could be a design problem of CVT related to manual mod. I don't think mitsubishi wish the problem to be know. It may cost them a lot of money and time. Wish for recal parts...
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Old Mar 18, 2010, 12:38 PM   #22
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Im sure most of you know this but I will say it anyways. in the book for our cars it says to NOT drive the car until the temp gauge shows a change in temp (meaning to idle the car until the temp gauge shows some heat). Maybe that has something to do with some of these problems? And if the temp is bellow 50 then the one min of drive time is not enough time for it to warm (from what i can see on my dash)
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Old Mar 18, 2010, 11:13 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timo606 View Post
Im sure most of you know this but I will say it anyways. in the book for our cars it says to NOT drive the car until the temp gauge shows a change in temp (meaning to idle the car until the temp gauge shows some heat). Maybe that has something to do with some of these problems? And if the temp is bellow 50 then the one min of drive time is not enough time for it to warm (from what i can see on my dash)
In 2009 lancer owner’s manual, it says: “A longer warm up period will only consume extra fuel. The engine is warmed up enough for driving when the bar graph of the engine coolant temperature display starts to move.” (p. 3-38)

“When the ambient temperature is –4F (-20C) or lower on vehicules with CVT, or –22F (-30C) or lower on vehicles with Twin Clutch SST, it may not be possible to start from a standstill even with the selector lever (CVT) or the gearshift lever (Twin Clutch SST) in the “D” (DRIVE) position. This phenomenon occurs because the transaxle has not warmed up sufficiently; it does not indicate a problem. If this occurs, place the selector lever (CVT) or the gearshift lever (Twin Clutch SST) in the “P” (PARK) position and let the engine idle for at least 10 minutes. The transaxle will warm up, and you will be able to drive normally.” (p 3-41)

I think this may involve the second and third problem that I mentioned. but I do not think it concerns the main issue involved in this topic. My car failed to accelerate even in hot weather. Only the frequency differs between cold and hot ambient temperature.

It is important to know that idling does not completely burn the fuel and can damage certain parts of the engine as the cylinders and spark plugs and exhaust system. Moreover, this partial combustion produces emissions harmful to health and the environment while increasing fuel consumption and vehicle wear. Certain parts warm up only when the car is moving. To avoid hard starting, connect the heater two hours before departure at temperatures below -15 C is generally sufficient. At startup, except during very cold (from -10 degrees C), 30 seconds are enough to lubricate the engine

I must admit that the longer I waited to take off with my car was 3 min and the problem occurred at that time. Some cities prohibit running the engine at idle more than 3 min (example, Montreal in Quebec)

For montral, Some exceptions are permitted concerning, for example, emergency vehicles and taxis and in the following circumstances:

-When the outside temperature is below -10 C and it is necessary to warm the vehicle due to the presence of a person inside;
-When ice is present on the vehicle and it is necessary to warm it to make driving safer.

But anyway, this lack of acceleration is unacceptable. it reduces the possibility of emergency maneuver. It's dangerous and Mitsubishi should do something. Even my mazda 626 1999 who drink its oil at a high rate does not make me such a thing, even at -30 C.
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 10:44 PM   #24
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I think this is the issue here. Thanks for pointing out these parts of the manual to me. Maybe I should pick it up and read it more thoroughly.
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Old Apr 1, 2010, 05:26 PM   #25
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"The engine is warmed up enough for driving when the bar graph of the engine coolant temperature display starts to move. (p. 3-38)

I waited for the bar graph to move but, the problem occured once again... And the the outdoor temperature was above 0 C.

Waiting until the car warms up does not solve the problem.
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Old Jun 4, 2011, 08:57 AM   #26
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Same issue

Also Having the no throttle issue in manual mode.

2009 Lancer GTS CVT

Purchased the car in June 2008.

Happens in the cold and hot weather. Tempature outside does not make a difference. Very intermitant, unable to reproduce if I tried. Happens about once or twice a month... ever since I purchased the car. I'd really like to get this fixed.. but mitsubishi won't touch it unless they can reproduce...
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 03:10 PM   #27
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Any one find the fix for this issue other than replacing the whole tranny? I just bought used 2008 lancer. The car was setting for more than two years because if similar issue. I have changed the cvt fluid & filters. Stall have that stupid vibration & very very slow response when accelerating from zero.
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Old Mar 24, 2013, 11:22 AM   #28
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My 2010 Lancer GTS has this same acceleration problem.

Last edited by zbrand9351; Aug 25, 2013 at 10:01 AM.
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Old Mar 26, 2013, 01:44 AM   #29
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ok, its normal.... your transmission needs to warm up. First off...there are no "clutches" in a CVT, it is two variable pulleys. This controls the gearing ratio, via hydraulics. Now, if your TCM (transmission control module) senses that the trans. is not warm enough it will tell the EECU via CAN1 that the throttle must be limited until necessary parameters are met. So, let your car warm up, don't mash the throttle. Get a manual... or get a new dealer who actually know the car... Cause from what you guys are explaining, no one knows whats going on. In terms of not being able to work on the trans, its not that they cant work on it. They cannot get parts or service tools for it. I am heavy duty mech, and at a dealership we cannot work on the internals of a 15,000$ transmission. So consider yourselves lucky. Drive safe!

oh, btw,

Just because your car is warm, doesnt mean you trans is warm. you need to drive it a little before you can be a race car driver :P CVT's blow :P

Last edited by CamShaft; Mar 26, 2013 at 01:48 AM.
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Old Mar 26, 2013, 04:41 AM   #30
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I'm sure the cold doesn't help, but I also experience this lag time to time, more often in the summer on really hot days. And it seems to be a somewhat common problem. It really doesn't seem like any kind of mechanical failure. It's more like an occasional fluke/delay in communication between the electronics, and it corrects itself within a second or two.

I understand that one time you need immediate power and experience a delay you could get slammed by an 18 wheeler or something, but for the most part it hasn't caused even the slightest issue for me. If it's as rare as my experience, there is a very slim chance the dealer will ever reproduce the issue. You might as well just go about your life driving and maybe document the issue with the dealer in case something does break down in the future.
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Old Mar 26, 2013, 04:41 AM
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