Revving up and down on parked
Aug 18, 2016, 03:43 PM
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Revving up and down on parked
I have a 2012 Lancer ES CVT and I just hit 100K. I changed my spark plugs few days ago.
Last night after work I was warming up my car like usual and I drove it 5 mins(3 blocks away) to a gas station to get fuel. I pull up to the pump and put it in "P" and the car started revving up and down for as long as I left the engine on. I don't remember how much it revved up but when it was going down I also noticed my headlights dimmed/weaken for split sec and back to normal and this happens every time the revving was dropping. After i turned off the engine and pumped fuel, I turned it back on and it seemed to be normal again and I drove off to the gym and when I got to the gym I checked if it happen again but nope. Is it normal? Also I noticed on my dashboard the temperature bar seems like its higher than before(Im not sure, maybe its just me), the bar is near the center(i've been looking at it everytime i drive now). I always thought it was like 1/3 the way before. I also noticed while changing my spark plug that my coolant reservoir was below the "L" marking(even when the car is cooled down). Is it possible that my water pump may be failing(causing the revving and heating?).
Last night after work I was warming up my car like usual and I drove it 5 mins(3 blocks away) to a gas station to get fuel. I pull up to the pump and put it in "P" and the car started revving up and down for as long as I left the engine on. I don't remember how much it revved up but when it was going down I also noticed my headlights dimmed/weaken for split sec and back to normal and this happens every time the revving was dropping. After i turned off the engine and pumped fuel, I turned it back on and it seemed to be normal again and I drove off to the gym and when I got to the gym I checked if it happen again but nope. Is it normal? Also I noticed on my dashboard the temperature bar seems like its higher than before(Im not sure, maybe its just me), the bar is near the center(i've been looking at it everytime i drive now). I always thought it was like 1/3 the way before. I also noticed while changing my spark plug that my coolant reservoir was below the "L" marking(even when the car is cooled down). Is it possible that my water pump may be failing(causing the revving and heating?).
Aug 23, 2016, 09:06 AM
#2
The revving generally indicates a vacuum leak - but why would it go away? [puzzled]
When it is revving up/down - open the hood and listen for air hissing and tell us where it comes from.
The headlights dim because the alternator is being turned more slowly, putting out less electricity.
No, it is not the water pump. When the engine is cold - pull the radiator cap and inspect the coolant level.
When it is revving up/down - open the hood and listen for air hissing and tell us where it comes from.
The headlights dim because the alternator is being turned more slowly, putting out less electricity.
No, it is not the water pump. When the engine is cold - pull the radiator cap and inspect the coolant level.
Aug 23, 2016, 05:00 PM
#3
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
The revving generally indicates a vacuum leak - but why would it go away? [puzzled]
When it is revving up/down - open the hood and listen for air hissing and tell us where it comes from.
The headlights dim because the alternator is being turned more slowly, putting out less electricity.
No, it is not the water pump. When the engine is cold - pull the radiator cap and inspect the coolant level.
When it is revving up/down - open the hood and listen for air hissing and tell us where it comes from.
The headlights dim because the alternator is being turned more slowly, putting out less electricity.
No, it is not the water pump. When the engine is cold - pull the radiator cap and inspect the coolant level.
Aug 24, 2016, 07:44 PM
#5
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
At the reservoir its 2-3 inch below the marked L line. I'm thinking of topping it off but I don't know what coolant to add to it. Is there a exact type or can I add any?
Aug 25, 2016, 06:35 PM
#7
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
I mean buying the coolant is not a problem for me, its just which coolant?
Does it have to be the exact same brand/type?
Freezing isnt a problem but overheating is a huge problem.
Im always in the CITY of INDUSTRY area and the temps around here are 100F+.
I have to drive up there so most the time the car is running incline on the freeway.
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Aug 26, 2016, 08:28 AM
#8
Water (pure) is the best for heat transfer. 'Coolant' is actually a misnomer. It is a rust-inhibitor fluid.
So, yeah, 12 oz water for the over-flow bucket is fine. The radiator only draws from the overflow if the radiator level drops (and yours is full).
The manual includes exactly what coolant (I don't have access to one at the moment) to use.
So, yeah, 12 oz water for the over-flow bucket is fine. The radiator only draws from the overflow if the radiator level drops (and yours is full).
The manual includes exactly what coolant (I don't have access to one at the moment) to use.
Sep 11, 2016, 06:03 PM
#10
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
OK so lately when the car isn't warmed up enough and I drive it and when I brake to complete stop or have it on P it would rev the rpm up and down and sometimes under the 500 rpm. I record it on my phone but I'm not sure how to place it here. I have a bad feeling something is going to break soon. Any idea what's causing this?
Sep 11, 2016, 07:19 PM
#11
Evolved Member
Like posted above, have you checked for vac leaks? A coworker had the same idle issue when parked or stopped. Sure enough... vac leak. Found a hose disconnected at or near the valve cover iirc.
Sep 12, 2016, 05:02 AM
#13
Evolved Member
He said both hot and cold. Did it when parked or at a stop. Would drive fine though.
The valve cover is where you changed your spark plugs at. That's the cover. Anyway... point being start with checking all the lines to make sure nothing is disconnected or broken/cracked.
The valve cover is where you changed your spark plugs at. That's the cover. Anyway... point being start with checking all the lines to make sure nothing is disconnected or broken/cracked.