Krakker's "Big O" Outlander mods
Jul 26, 2014, 01:48 PM
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Krakker's "Big O" Outlander mods
Everyone knows and says that Mitsu has followed the funny new trend in adding mustaches to the front of their cars. Mitsu did the same to the larger SUV the Outlander. lol. Well, I'm NOT a big fan of chrome trim anyway, (only on a black car IMO) so I figured after 2 days of ownership, I'd better catch up and start modding.
The front mustache grill is really simple to remove. There's a bunch of small pushlock plugs that hold the front top tray, the air scoop and the mustache grill in place. Once you pull them out (I did it with just fingers but show a screwdriver) there are 3 white plastic push rivits that will pop out with a screw driver underneath them.
NOTE: there are 2 larger pushlock plugs that hold the air scoop and 2 at the top corners of the mustache grill.
Once the grill is off, there are just 2 Philips screws for each chrome trim piece on the back side. Once they are out, you need to start at one end and slowly pop the lock and push the trim piece out of the snaplock. Do this little by little till you can pull the whole piece out.
I used a scotchbrite pad to scuff up the chrome and then window cleaner to wipe them down. Place the trim pieces on some cardboard and use some Duplicolor adhesion promoter to spray them with first. (this is essential and can be found at any parts store) Next, I flashed on a light coat of Duplicolor Trim Paint. (flat black) Then held one of the lock tabs with long pliers so I could get some all around coverage of the black on the pieces. let dry a couple hours and you'll have a nice finished piece. Assemble in reverse order and you'll have a nicely detailed grill. Much better than plasti-dipping IMHO, and is a much better, professional finish. The wife likes Green, so I used some Rally Green hobby paint (for plastic R/C bodies) as a base coat on the diamond Triads and then misted them with some metallic Green. Turned out pretty good. We'll change the triads to Red when we give it to the daughter for college. Enjoy the pics.
The front mustache grill is really simple to remove. There's a bunch of small pushlock plugs that hold the front top tray, the air scoop and the mustache grill in place. Once you pull them out (I did it with just fingers but show a screwdriver) there are 3 white plastic push rivits that will pop out with a screw driver underneath them.
NOTE: there are 2 larger pushlock plugs that hold the air scoop and 2 at the top corners of the mustache grill.
Once the grill is off, there are just 2 Philips screws for each chrome trim piece on the back side. Once they are out, you need to start at one end and slowly pop the lock and push the trim piece out of the snaplock. Do this little by little till you can pull the whole piece out.
I used a scotchbrite pad to scuff up the chrome and then window cleaner to wipe them down. Place the trim pieces on some cardboard and use some Duplicolor adhesion promoter to spray them with first. (this is essential and can be found at any parts store) Next, I flashed on a light coat of Duplicolor Trim Paint. (flat black) Then held one of the lock tabs with long pliers so I could get some all around coverage of the black on the pieces. let dry a couple hours and you'll have a nice finished piece. Assemble in reverse order and you'll have a nicely detailed grill. Much better than plasti-dipping IMHO, and is a much better, professional finish. The wife likes Green, so I used some Rally Green hobby paint (for plastic R/C bodies) as a base coat on the diamond Triads and then misted them with some metallic Green. Turned out pretty good. We'll change the triads to Red when we give it to the daughter for college. Enjoy the pics.
Last edited by Krakker; Jul 26, 2014 at 05:28 PM.
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Airtrek14 (Feb 10, 2024)
Jul 26, 2014, 01:57 PM
#3
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Here's the front and backend after the plasti-dip treatment of the front grill area.
We debadged the rear accept for the Triads, there's a pocket for it to sit in, (like on the front) and it's got a plastic mold "bleack" in the top section, so we put the triads back on after painting them like the fronts.
We debadged the rear accept for the Triads, there's a pocket for it to sit in, (like on the front) and it's got a plastic mold "bleack" in the top section, so we put the triads back on after painting them like the fronts.
Last edited by Krakker; Jul 26, 2014 at 02:07 PM.
Jul 26, 2014, 05:43 PM
#4
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Some things I did find when attempting to transfer some of the OS parts over are that the strut bar and intake will not work. The intake should be no problem, but the MAF mounting screws are different and they changed the sensor shape in 2014. (I may have to get creative) as for the strut bar, I may end up welding and drilling some new mounts and then modifying the solid bar I took off the OS.
NOTE: buyer of intakes beware for anything 2014. If your MAF sensor is oval chances are it "WONT" work on the intakes I've seen out there that have the rectangular mounting surface. The bolt holes are not correct for them either.
Not sure if I can redrill a new hole and tap the current intake but I'll try and see If it's do-able. I'm wondering if the 2013s MAF sensor will still plug into the connector on the harness??? That would be a good option "IF" I could get one cheap.
NOTE: buyer of intakes beware for anything 2014. If your MAF sensor is oval chances are it "WONT" work on the intakes I've seen out there that have the rectangular mounting surface. The bolt holes are not correct for them either.
Not sure if I can redrill a new hole and tap the current intake but I'll try and see If it's do-able. I'm wondering if the 2013s MAF sensor will still plug into the connector on the harness??? That would be a good option "IF" I could get one cheap.
Jul 26, 2014, 06:28 PM
#5
Evolved Member
Sir, you certainly don't mess around. Already getting a few "appearance" mods done. Great start.
And, planning on cutting/drilling/welding your own brackets to the new O.lander. Nice!
All this while you're still recovering from foot surgery...
I'm Really going to have to speed up my pace on Mods!! I have no excuse. (well, other than the sweltering Texas heat and spending time with my baby girl
)
And, planning on cutting/drilling/welding your own brackets to the new O.lander. Nice!
All this while you're still recovering from foot surgery...
I'm Really going to have to speed up my pace on Mods!! I have no excuse. (well, other than the sweltering Texas heat and spending time with my baby girl
)
Last edited by mRVRsport; Jul 26, 2014 at 06:30 PM.
Aug 2, 2014, 05:43 PM
#6
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Going to do some more personalization here soon. I ordered up some pin stripe and decals from the bay, we'll see what I like better. I got some 1/8" black and some 1/2" Green that I'm going to run along the body line if the decal don't work out. But here's a shot of the stock photo. I ordered the grafix in a dark Green, so if it works out ok, I'll use the rest of what I ordered on the hood and rear.
There are some good designs to chose from for the side and the hood if someone wanted to get creative.
I also got some silver 4D carbon fiber vinyl for the dash and door areas where the window buttons are. It came with it on the door inserts and the front air ducts but the rest of the main dash and stuff is just "blah". We'll fix that.
There are some good designs to chose from for the side and the hood if someone wanted to get creative.
I also got some silver 4D carbon fiber vinyl for the dash and door areas where the window buttons are. It came with it on the door inserts and the front air ducts but the rest of the main dash and stuff is just "blah". We'll fix that.
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Aug 3, 2014, 01:05 PM
#8
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
CAI for the Outlander 2.4
Went to work on modding the Takeda intake today. This can be done for All 2014 Outlander Sports as well as the big "O" with the new style MAF mounting points.
The 2014's changed the shape of the MAF "BUT",,,,, if you are good with a drill and can hold a strait line and tap, you can still buy the CAI's that are on the market saying they fit up to the 2014's. (even tho they really "don't")
First off, the lower corner raised screw mount either needs milled, or filed slightly on the inside upper portion. The MAF seals with an O-ring in the same manner the 2010's-13 did. Once I put the MAF where it was square in the housing, I used a punch to mark the center of the hole, (you could use a drill that fills the hole and tap down on it to mark the center as well)
Next, I drilled the hole straight down but not through the tube using some cutting fluid on the bit (#30) and then use a 4mm tap as deep as I could get it to go. (I have stainless M3-M4 hardware from my R/C crawler building so having these tools and hardware was easy but you can get it all from a hardware store or hobby shop)
I used a bit for M3 screws since the next hole was close to the edge of the bulkhead with the MAF bolted in place and drilled through the plastic plate and into the bulkhead. I used stainless M3 screw to tap the hole with cutting oil. then it was on to assembly, and putting it into the Big O. Here's some pics of the work that can be done with a file, hand drill, a tap, and a vise. You CAN do it. !!!!!
Although it helps if you have a Smithy Lathe, Mill combo in your basement. lol
The 2014's changed the shape of the MAF "BUT",,,,, if you are good with a drill and can hold a strait line and tap, you can still buy the CAI's that are on the market saying they fit up to the 2014's. (even tho they really "don't")
First off, the lower corner raised screw mount either needs milled, or filed slightly on the inside upper portion. The MAF seals with an O-ring in the same manner the 2010's-13 did. Once I put the MAF where it was square in the housing, I used a punch to mark the center of the hole, (you could use a drill that fills the hole and tap down on it to mark the center as well)
Next, I drilled the hole straight down but not through the tube using some cutting fluid on the bit (#30) and then use a 4mm tap as deep as I could get it to go. (I have stainless M3-M4 hardware from my R/C crawler building so having these tools and hardware was easy but you can get it all from a hardware store or hobby shop)
I used a bit for M3 screws since the next hole was close to the edge of the bulkhead with the MAF bolted in place and drilled through the plastic plate and into the bulkhead. I used stainless M3 screw to tap the hole with cutting oil. then it was on to assembly, and putting it into the Big O. Here's some pics of the work that can be done with a file, hand drill, a tap, and a vise. You CAN do it. !!!!!
Although it helps if you have a Smithy Lathe, Mill combo in your basement. lol
Last edited by Krakker; Aug 3, 2014 at 01:14 PM.
Aug 3, 2014, 01:11 PM
#9
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
This was the Lancer Takeda intake that was in the 2013 Outlander Sport. I took it out when I traded it in on the full size Outlander. After modding the intake for the 2014 MAF sensor, it fits just like it did on the OS. Now it sounds different had some more grunt, and quicker throttle response and wouldn't you know it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, the wife now says it's too loud at low speed sounds funny.,,,,,,,,,
Good Grief.
FYI, for those looking for a better intake scoop, the Outlander is a good choice from what I can tell over the Rallyart scoop. and should be a simple mod.
Good Grief.
FYI, for those looking for a better intake scoop, the Outlander is a good choice from what I can tell over the Rallyart scoop. and should be a simple mod.
Last edited by Krakker; Aug 3, 2014 at 01:21 PM.
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Airtrek14 (Feb 10, 2024)
Aug 3, 2014, 06:51 PM
#10
Evolved Member
Went to work on modding the Takeda intake today. This can be done for All 2014 Outlander Sports as well as the big "O" with the new style MAF mounting points.
The 2014's changed the shape of the MAF "BUT",,,,, if you are good with a drill and can hold a strait line and tap, you can still buy the CAI's that are on the market saying they fit up to the 2014's. (even tho they really "don't")
First off, the lower corner raised screw mount either needs milled, or filed slightly on the inside upper portion. The MAF seals with an O-ring in the same manner the 2010's-13 did. Once I put the MAF where it was square in the housing, I used a punch to mark the center of the hole, (you could use a drill that fills the hole and tap down on it to mark the center as well)
Next, I drilled the hole straight down but not through the tube using some cutting fluid on the bit (#30) and then use a 4mm tap as deep as I could get it to go. (I have stainless M3-M4 hardware from my R/C crawler building so having these tools and hardware was easy but you can get it all from a hardware store or hobby shop)
I used a bit for M3 screws since the next hole was close to the edge of the bulkhead with the MAF bolted in place and drilled through the plastic plate and into the bulkhead. I used stainless M3 screw to tap the hole with cutting oil. then it was on to assembly, and putting it into the Big O. Here's some pics of the work that can be done with a file, hand drill, a tap, and a vise. You CAN do it. !!!!!
Although it helps if you have a Smithy Lathe, Mill combo in your basement. lol
The 2014's changed the shape of the MAF "BUT",,,,, if you are good with a drill and can hold a strait line and tap, you can still buy the CAI's that are on the market saying they fit up to the 2014's. (even tho they really "don't")
First off, the lower corner raised screw mount either needs milled, or filed slightly on the inside upper portion. The MAF seals with an O-ring in the same manner the 2010's-13 did. Once I put the MAF where it was square in the housing, I used a punch to mark the center of the hole, (you could use a drill that fills the hole and tap down on it to mark the center as well)
Next, I drilled the hole straight down but not through the tube using some cutting fluid on the bit (#30) and then use a 4mm tap as deep as I could get it to go. (I have stainless M3-M4 hardware from my R/C crawler building so having these tools and hardware was easy but you can get it all from a hardware store or hobby shop)
I used a bit for M3 screws since the next hole was close to the edge of the bulkhead with the MAF bolted in place and drilled through the plastic plate and into the bulkhead. I used stainless M3 screw to tap the hole with cutting oil. then it was on to assembly, and putting it into the Big O. Here's some pics of the work that can be done with a file, hand drill, a tap, and a vise. You CAN do it. !!!!!
Although it helps if you have a Smithy Lathe, Mill combo in your basement. lol
This was the Lancer Takeda intake that was in the 2013 Outlander Sport. I took it out when I traded it in on the full size Outlander. After modding the intake for the 2014 MAF sensor, it fits just like it did on the OS. Now it sounds different had some more grunt, and quicker throttle response and wouldn't you know it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, the wife now says it's too loud at low speed sounds funny.,,,,,,,,,
Good Grief.
FYI, for those looking for a better intake scoop, the Outlander is a good choice from what I can tell over the Rallyart scoop. and should be a simple mod.
Good Grief.
FYI, for those looking for a better intake scoop, the Outlander is a good choice from what I can tell over the Rallyart scoop. and should be a simple mod.
You are getting just a bit too extreme on the precision modding, I love it!
Great job! a
for the mod and another
to that Lathe of yours!Wives are so hard to please...
Aug 17, 2014, 11:00 AM
#11
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
finally got the striping decals in for the body. Cleaned the surface with glass cleaner before applying. put the black strip right on the body line from front to back then mocked up where the new green decal would go. I like it where it's at right between the black pin stripe and the window molding. All in all, I think it turned out OK for eyeballing it along as my girl helped me hold the decal and un tape the back side.
Gives a totally new look without being "over done". Wife loves the Green and had me Plasti dip the back chrome trim piece too. Much better without the chrome. I think I'll ask about tinting the rear lenses when the front windows get done too,,,, still too shinny for our tastes.
Wheels gettin' blacked out might be next. I think that would "finish off" the look.
Gives a totally new look without being "over done". Wife loves the Green and had me Plasti dip the back chrome trim piece too. Much better without the chrome. I think I'll ask about tinting the rear lenses when the front windows get done too,,,, still too shinny for our tastes.
Wheels gettin' blacked out might be next. I think that would "finish off" the look.
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Airtrek14 (Feb 10, 2024)
Aug 17, 2014, 11:06 AM
#12
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Took out the Takeda intake and put the stocker back on also today. Just wasn't worth it since she doesn't want me to tune it at this time. So,,,,, not wanting to be plain Jane, I took the time to tape off a few pieces, hit them with the Duplicolor adhesion promoter and spray'm with some Silver that matched the body color. I like the contrast.
Ened up doing the fuse box cover, intake scoop, PVC air baffle thingy, and the Tri-diamonds on the engine cover.
Ened up doing the fuse box cover, intake scoop, PVC air baffle thingy, and the Tri-diamonds on the engine cover.
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Airtrek14 (Feb 10, 2024)
Aug 17, 2014, 03:08 PM
#14
Evolved Member
Solid work OP,
Running a long decal down the body line and keeping it straight.. is tough, I know cause I've tried before. So you did a fantasy job.
Giving it some color for some of those plastic bits (under the hood) is great idea.
I guess should have used different color carbon-vinyl when I did my fusebox cover...
Running a long decal down the body line and keeping it straight.. is tough, I know cause I've tried before. So you did a fantasy job.
Giving it some color for some of those plastic bits (under the hood) is great idea.
I guess should have used different color carbon-vinyl when I did my fusebox cover...
Aug 17, 2014, 03:46 PM
#15
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Solid work OP,
Running a long decal down the body line and keeping it straight.. is tough, I know cause I've tried before. So you did a fantasy job.
Giving it some color for some of those plastic bits (under the hood) is great idea.
I guess should have used different color carbon-vinyl when I did my fusebox cover...
Running a long decal down the body line and keeping it straight.. is tough, I know cause I've tried before. So you did a fantasy job.
Giving it some color for some of those plastic bits (under the hood) is great idea.
I guess should have used different color carbon-vinyl when I did my fusebox cover...
Thanks guys. I like the way the graphic turned out VS. just the solid thicker Green stripe. I had looked at this one before and was going to do it on the OS. I think just cutting it down somewhere at a door seam would good depending on the color. She just likes Green so I thought why not personalize it.
That adhesion promoter is great stuff for covering up trim and what not on Chrome and plastic. I used it as a base before I did the rear trim as well.