got my 2015 project AWD summit (expo RVR)
Jun 10, 2015, 03:07 PM
#17
100% Subscribed!! Looking forward to this!
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"Let us help you build your JDM dream!"
www.bulletproofautomotive.com
The Real JDM - Interactive (blog)
Email: sales@bulletproofautomotive.com
Direct North American Dealers for Voltex, Mines, Varis, First Molding, HKS Kansai, Cusco, HKS, Advan, Volk, Ings+1, C-West, Work, and so much more...
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Sep 3, 2015, 11:11 AM
#21
94AWDcoupe,
Would you share some more information about the 147mm rods, as it looks wider then the manly's in the picture however its not named with any information.
Does it fit a 7 bolt or 6 bolt crank? Also where could I find some if interested in purchasing... pm or reply. Thanks and good luck with your unique project.
Would you share some more information about the 147mm rods, as it looks wider then the manly's in the picture however its not named with any information.
Does it fit a 7 bolt or 6 bolt crank? Also where could I find some if interested in purchasing... pm or reply. Thanks and good luck with your unique project.
Sep 3, 2015, 12:03 PM
#22
the rods are no name. got them on ebay. they are substantially larger in all key areas to eagles/manley/scat/etc. .. dont have any feedback on these particular rods. but have plenty of china made H beam experience. I have no problem trusting them for 600whp builds. beyond that I would spring for better rods for the piece of mind.
Nov 29, 2015, 10:03 AM
#24
got head ready. nicely ported on exhaust side. mild clean up on intake side. loaded with evo 8 hardware and evo 3 cams.
started assembly on block. got new balance shaft bearings pressed in. pretty intense job in itself. I made special tool to use on my press. hard to get them in and not distort them. then fitting evo 8 oil squirters. the bases have to be shaved or they will snap the housing and ruin the squirter. these were then re-pointed to give optimum squirt to underside of piston. i know a lot of people like to eliminate squirters on a rebuild. I saw yes if engine is going in drag car. but HECK no for a street car. they serve very important job of stabilizing crown temp. i dont build motors without them.
next up was fitting crankshaft. turns out this crank has a good bit of use on it. rods came up .002 mains were a tad over .003. thrust at .0055. while these clearances are fine for drag engine, i likely would have used HX bearings on rods to get them at .003 as well. But this is a street car that will see miles. So I ordered -.025mm mains. most people dont know these exist. these are stock bearings that are made tighter by .001. this will get my main clearance down to .002. better clearance for what I am doing here. I am a little weary running a non nitrided crank. but was just too lazy to send it off. this will be first 7 bolt in ten years I have built with stock non hardened crank. While i am pretty confident in my tuning skills to not run engine into detonation i am worried about my day ruined with crankwalk. So I bought a can of molykote off ebay to coat the thrust surface on the center main. I will likely use it on the piston skirts as well since I have it cant hurt. reading pdf files on this stuff is interesting. this stuff can be used to coat piston rings!. better seal, longer life, less friction. hmmmm
took me a while to decide how to get built motor in car with the least amount of risk. there is nothing worse for a new block then getting it in and it not start right up. so I considered option A: converting car to DOHC first. turbo conversion second, shortblock last after its running turbo. option B: install shortblock first. get it running in stock form. then convert to DOHC, then turbo. then there is option C: install built block, DOHC head at same time. but get it started on the original ECU, distributer and injectors. then convert to turbo after engine is in and broken in proper. So I am opting for option C. it seems like best option for me.
started assembly on block. got new balance shaft bearings pressed in. pretty intense job in itself. I made special tool to use on my press. hard to get them in and not distort them. then fitting evo 8 oil squirters. the bases have to be shaved or they will snap the housing and ruin the squirter. these were then re-pointed to give optimum squirt to underside of piston. i know a lot of people like to eliminate squirters on a rebuild. I saw yes if engine is going in drag car. but HECK no for a street car. they serve very important job of stabilizing crown temp. i dont build motors without them.
next up was fitting crankshaft. turns out this crank has a good bit of use on it. rods came up .002 mains were a tad over .003. thrust at .0055. while these clearances are fine for drag engine, i likely would have used HX bearings on rods to get them at .003 as well. But this is a street car that will see miles. So I ordered -.025mm mains. most people dont know these exist. these are stock bearings that are made tighter by .001. this will get my main clearance down to .002. better clearance for what I am doing here. I am a little weary running a non nitrided crank. but was just too lazy to send it off. this will be first 7 bolt in ten years I have built with stock non hardened crank. While i am pretty confident in my tuning skills to not run engine into detonation i am worried about my day ruined with crankwalk. So I bought a can of molykote off ebay to coat the thrust surface on the center main. I will likely use it on the piston skirts as well since I have it cant hurt. reading pdf files on this stuff is interesting. this stuff can be used to coat piston rings!. better seal, longer life, less friction. hmmmm
took me a while to decide how to get built motor in car with the least amount of risk. there is nothing worse for a new block then getting it in and it not start right up. so I considered option A: converting car to DOHC first. turbo conversion second, shortblock last after its running turbo. option B: install shortblock first. get it running in stock form. then convert to DOHC, then turbo. then there is option C: install built block, DOHC head at same time. but get it started on the original ECU, distributer and injectors. then convert to turbo after engine is in and broken in proper. So I am opting for option C. it seems like best option for me.
Dec 10, 2015, 10:25 AM
#28
I get to drive this thing all the time with it being bone stock power and modified suspension. This thing is fun even with low horsepower. I am going to talk him into bringing the car to a dyno just for laugh purposes. I am curious with how little power it actually makes.
I can't wait to actually drive this thing with some power! It is going to be nuts!
I can't wait to actually drive this thing with some power! It is going to be nuts!
Feb 1, 2016, 04:43 PM
#29
picked up some new Defi gauges for less than 100 each. couldnt pass that up. these are my favorite gauges. scored some more spare EFR turbos on the cheap. 250/500/950. 6758/6758/7163. one turbo came with speed sensor. and the 7163 has two dyno pulls on it and can almost pass for new. havent even seen another used one for sale. the inlet flange is slightly different. so it would be a little work to get it swapped in my kit I am building. I dont think I will need or want the extra power. so its on standby. since I got a speed sensor I looked around at any gauges available. could only find two. the garret gauge happens to match quite well the look of these defi gauges. so I think I will spring for that. these turbos are extra sensitive to over spinning. so this could pay for itself.
video of garrett gauge
picked up some Tomei poncams 260. I think these will be hot in this setup. I was looking for a mild cam that didnt sacrifice idle quality and worked well with stock/smallish turbos. I want the car to idle low and smooth, like stock. feedback is very positive. they spool turbo faster than stock cams (great for getting up on converter) have enormous midrange, pull hard to 7500 rpm, and dont need upgraded springs. cant find single user on DSM forums so I will be the guinea pig
video of garrett gauge
picked up some Tomei poncams 260. I think these will be hot in this setup. I was looking for a mild cam that didnt sacrifice idle quality and worked well with stock/smallish turbos. I want the car to idle low and smooth, like stock. feedback is very positive. they spool turbo faster than stock cams (great for getting up on converter) have enormous midrange, pull hard to 7500 rpm, and dont need upgraded springs. cant find single user on DSM forums so I will be the guinea pig
Feb 1, 2016, 04:48 PM
#30
new mod arrived . got the idea from EGLTAWLN on tuners. I pirated a couple pics of his car. to me its one of the few bumper swaps that just belongs. its a 97-2001 impreza. cheap at u-pull yard. I couldnt wait so i bought new off rock auto. was 210 shipped with the lights.
this swap is not for the weak hearted. its a good bit of work to make it fit good. but its the type of stuff i love. first job was replacing the right front fender. found a white fender and u-pull yard shortly after getting the car. but didnt want to pull the bumper just to install it. then i got side tracked and modified my grill . to me the multiple slats looked dated and it was really bothering me. I had some ides on how to improve the look and improve the flow at same time. this is what i came up with today. may change it later but I think it looks pretty good. i also think the car looks pretty good with the bumper in black but it wont stay that way.
To make rook for intercooler I did some work trimming backside of bumper. tin snip the large pieces off. then trim to size with 4" sander. then finish edges with edge of knife. still deciding what to do with tag bracket. really liking this bumper. stock bumper complete weighs 36 lbs. this cover weigh just 8 lbs. I think my intercooler weighs 16-18. so weight savings removing core and adding I/C should save 6-8lbs.
this swap is not for the weak hearted. its a good bit of work to make it fit good. but its the type of stuff i love. first job was replacing the right front fender. found a white fender and u-pull yard shortly after getting the car. but didnt want to pull the bumper just to install it. then i got side tracked and modified my grill . to me the multiple slats looked dated and it was really bothering me. I had some ides on how to improve the look and improve the flow at same time. this is what i came up with today. may change it later but I think it looks pretty good. i also think the car looks pretty good with the bumper in black but it wont stay that way.
To make rook for intercooler I did some work trimming backside of bumper. tin snip the large pieces off. then trim to size with 4" sander. then finish edges with edge of knife. still deciding what to do with tag bracket. really liking this bumper. stock bumper complete weighs 36 lbs. this cover weigh just 8 lbs. I think my intercooler weighs 16-18. so weight savings removing core and adding I/C should save 6-8lbs.
