bigben

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure if there are a lot of you out there who have purchased these, but I feel I need to point something out if you do get them. I do feel that they have helped out a lot with my blow-by problem, but because of the directions that came with the vents, my dipstick did pop out and made a little bit of an oil mess last night. Here are the instructions word for word:

MAP Crankcase Vents
Crank Vent replacements
Creates crankcase vacuum:
-better gas mileage
-more power
-quicker throttle response
-reduced oil consumption
-no more dip-stick pop out (I don't know about this because mine still popped out)
Instuctions:
-install large side towards the engine
-one at valve cover breather port
-one between PCV and intake manifold

I'll show you the direction of the airflow with either a "<<" or a ">>"

intake manifold << crank vent << PCV << valve cover >> crank vent >> hose that leads to the intake tube (under vacuum)
intake manifold >> crank vent -|- PCV -|- valve cover >> crank vent >> hose that leads to the intake tube (under boost)
-I checked both the crank vents and the PCV to see of they both work properly in the direction of how the air should be flowing during both instances, and they did.

So, my question is: Why did my dipstick pop out? Both the crank vent and the PCV are designed to close during boost, or they would become a huge boost leak. I took out the crank vent beside the PCV and hooked it up back to stock. Also, why would I need to install the crank vent inline with the PCV since they are both check valves? Why would you need 2 of the same thing side by side? I would greatly appreciate any input as to why my dipstick still popped out after correctly installing the parts. This is the first time it has ever popped out.

jdm96gsr

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking bout doing this mod myself, so you're saying you had dip stick pop out after you installed it, but never once before?

lcwjr

iTrader: (4)

You need the Crank Vent and the pcv valve because the Crank Vent alone will pass way too much air into the intake, and the motor will idle at about 2000 rpm. The pcv is needed to reduce the air flow. I tried two new oem pcv valves, and they both leaked at 10 psi. That's why I went to the Crank Vent. I can't answer why the dip stick blew out.

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

The dipstick should not be blowing out and idle should actually be a bit smoother. The easiest way to remember how to install them is fat end towards the valve cover.

bigben

iTrader: (4)

That's how I installed them. I'm almost positive that it popped out after an aggressive pull out on the interstate because when I finally got stopped I could smell a little bit of something hot. I should've checked under the hood then but I've never had the dipstick pop out before this so the thought never crossed my mind.

Also all this happened about a week after I initially installed them. When I first put them on, I did notice a smoother idle and a slightly higher gas mileage. I think I'll put that crank vent back on today and I'll also zip-tie the dipstick down.

bigben

iTrader: (4)

Yes, this is exactly what happened, and they were installed just like the instructions stated.

fugiwara

iTrader: (124)

i just delete my PCV and run a open tube to the ground and no more blow by oil in the IC, intake

bigben

iTrader: (4)

The PCV system has a function, crankcase pressure is a bad thing, especially on a boosted engine.

bigben

iTrader: (4)

Alrighty, I think I found the culprit. I'm pretty sure that the vacuum hose from the IM to the PCV was kinked because of the cramped room after the crank vent was installed. It only made sense to me that by that happening, the other crank vent couldn't expel all the blow-by itself, so it caused a back up of crank pressure, thus making the dip stick pop out. Just for the hell of it, I went ahead and zip-tied the dipstick down twice. I'll keep my eye on it every so often just to make sure the problem is fixed.

What I did to fix the problem was I unclipped the whole crank sensor connector off it's bracket (the one beside the FPR and moved it out of the way a little to make room for the crank vent and that vacuum line. It should be good to go now.

Just wanted everyone to know that I wasn't bashing the product at all, I was just concerned with what happened. I hope this helps you all out when you go to install it and you don't run into the same thing I did.

RJSP

I have a doubt with the "valve cover >> crank vent >> hose that leads to the intake tube" part of the system; as I understand it, fresh air is supposed to be sucked in through here and pulled by the intake manifold in vacum.

But now the check valve will only allow for vapors to be pulled out and no fresh air gets in, I understand this can increase the vacuum in the crankcase, but isnīt the fresh air needed for better oil properties etc.? OEM system allows for the fresh air under vacuum.

Cheers,

Ricardo

bigben

iTrader: (4)

Hmm, I don't have an answer to that one. You'll have to pm Kracka about that, it's his product.

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

I removed my PCV long ago.

MJ23FE

iTrader: (3)

What are the advantages of removing the PCV?

Thanks!

-Jalal

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

My thinking, although from a platform of ignorance, the main benefit for me is keeping my new Magnus V5 IM clean inside Sorry, don't mean to de-rail the thread subject, IMO it makes it easier just deleting the entire gd thing (I vent the intake side too) -


STM pcv delete fitting + Saikou Michi custom -AN catch can.

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

Glad the OP found the kinked hose though, the MAP/Kracka crankcase checkvalves look like they should work well. I was thinking you had them turned around backwards but a kinked hose would eff it up as well. Was also going to say though if your dipstick pops out you'll know it