i've searched all the 'how to' forums on this site including regular lancers and evo's. Anyone got info in this, i'm sure its easy, but i've never done it. Thanks.

 

I'll do my best to describe it. It's super-easy.

1. Lift and put car on stands. Remove wheel.
2. There are two bolts holding the caliper to the bracket. Turn the wheel if you need to make it easier to get to. Remove these bolts, remove the caliper, then use a piece of wire to hang the caliper out of the way. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake line. Pull out the pads.
3. Remove the caliper bracket by removing the two bolts holding it in.
4. From here you should be able to pull the rotor straight towards you. If needed, you can give it a few taps from behind with a soft mallet.

Installation is the reverse. If putting in new pads, you'll need a c-clamp or something to push the caliper piston back in.

 

I would also like to add a couple of tips to make things easier. When installing the padsa add grease to the back of the pads shield if needed(to eliminate vibration and noise).

When pulling the caliper use a big fat screw driver and stick it between the caliper and the vertical edge of the disc, then use it as fulcrum point to remove the caliper.


I am not sure if the Ralliart uses a single or dual piston caliper but if you can get a C clamp then you can use a mallet. Grab the T side with your palm then push with your body into the piston using your body weight to compress the piston. Position the caliper comfortably with a rag or cloth on the suspension tower and just push until the piston compresses.

This is a good chance to wash the calipers a bit with maybe soapy water and have all that dust remove.

Carlos

 

if you use the c-clamp put the brake pad between the clamp and the piston so it doesn't torque in the shaft.

if you don't have a soft mallet use a hefty stick/block of wood and jab the edge of the rotor to break it free. anything softer than metal will suffice for this really.

 

and if it is rusted on i believe (most other models of mitsus) there are 2 screw holes in the rotor that bolds can be threaded into and tightened down to force the rotor off the hub.

 

Otter,
thanks for the write up, I just inspected the job, and #2 of your instructions does not need to be done if you are not changing the brake pads(although i've already done this), so this step can be skipped. Yeah, there are two bolts that hold the entire caliper assembly on that can be removed to just change the rotors (looks that way anyways). An 11/16 socket fits to remove these, although my first attempt was unsucessful as these bolts are seized. Might try again tomorrow before work.

 

wd40 and a breaker bar will do the trick, then try a cheater bar if it doesnt, and if all else falis "get a bigger hammer"

 

There's an easier way than pounding on it to get a rusted rotor off. Those tiny threaded holes will just twist off the bolt you put in 'em if it's really stuck.

Once you remove the caliper, run a large bolt through the bracket the caliper bolt goes through, and thread the bolt into a nut on the other side of the bracket, so the threaded end of the bolt pushes up against the rotor when tightened. Should end up with something like this:

Bolt - bracket - nut - rotor.

Tighten the bolt while holding the nut with a wrench, and it'll push the rotor off the hub. If necessary, tighten in one place, then loosen the bolt, rotate the rotor a bit, and tighten again. Repeat as necessary. I've had rotors that came off in halves (sledgehammered) on one side of the car come off in just a few minutes on the other side using this trick.

 

lol the hammer thing is just an old mechanics joke. wheneve we used to get pissed and throwsomething out of the bay or kick something someone would say "when all else fail, get a bigger hammer" i didnt mean it literally lol.

 

One thing I would do after removing the wheel and before removing anything else would be to hose down the whole assembly with water.

Get that nasty break dust off before you start to do any work.

 

Yeah, *I* know that, but there are impressionable kids here. The last thing I'd want is to have one of them take you literally and pound the hell out of their car because of something they read on the internet.

Besides, isn't it, "when all else fails, break out the gas-axe"?

 

well i was thinking if the bigger hammer didn't work, i'd take it back to the dealership and claim it defective, or trade the car for a new one. (ok got that out of the way)
Right now, my main problem is getting the caliper assembly off. Two bolts hold the entire thing on from behind, I tried for a few minutes but was not sucessful, they are seized really good. I"ll try again Thursday as i'll have time in the morning. I've got some lube that hopefully will help, and then i'll see how well the rotors slide off or if i'll need ot use the advise above. Thanks for the help so far. will keep updated.

 

Remember, if your changing the pads and you push the pistons in. Be sure to pump the break pedal before you start moving or the first time you go to hit the brakes the pedal will go to the floor. I forgot to pump the pedal after doing pads on my old oldsmobile, almost went thru garage door. love e-brakes.

 

Give it a nice quick "snap" with a beaker bar or 3/4 rachet they should break loose.

 

decided to bump an old thread. I was swapping out my rotors and pads tonight following otter's method for the fronts.

doing the rears is easier HOWEVER getting the rotors off is a PITA if they're rusted on like mine. a cool trick i learned from searching through the evo forum is that if you thread in a 12mm bolt into one of the 2 small holes on the side of the rear rotors and you screw it in it'll pop the rotor off. NO NEED FOR THE MALLET! i was looking everywhere for one until i found that little tid bit and it worked in less then 30 seconds. Hope this helps some people. I dont know if someone touched on this before but knowing the exact bolt size helps alot