DIY Cold Air Intake
Aug 3, 2006, 09:31 AM
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DIY Cold Air Intake
materials: PVC and couplers I got from home depot.
the cone filter and size adapters (in a 2.5" to 3" kit) I got from autozone.
This takes some rigging up, but once you get everything set it works real well. I don't know about comparing it to a name brand product since I didn't bother, but I don't think they are 3 inches wide either.
I used 3" PVC piping. I cut the MAF sensor out of the stock airbox with a hack saw and used adapters from autozone to go from the 2.5" of the stock tube to the 3" PVC. I also bought two rubber PVC couplers, one 45 degree and one straight, to make the turn to the wheel well. I removed the inner splash guard and put the filter just on the outside of the ridge where the plastic guard attached. I then cut out beside the foglight to allow fresh air flow, the filter is directly behind this part of the foglight housing. I have since made a diffuser to redirect water coming from the road. Basically it's a piece of sheet metal two inches from the hole so when the water hits it it falls down instead of soaking the filter, air can still flow around to the filter. here are some pics on my website. PM me if you need any more help
I just PM'ed this to another member and since I had to take the time to write it up I figured I would post it here as well. I will update when I get the g/f's camera so I can get better pics, the ones on my website are mainly for show and should only give a basic idea of the setup in stage one.
the cone filter and size adapters (in a 2.5" to 3" kit) I got from autozone.
This takes some rigging up, but once you get everything set it works real well. I don't know about comparing it to a name brand product since I didn't bother, but I don't think they are 3 inches wide either.
I used 3" PVC piping. I cut the MAF sensor out of the stock airbox with a hack saw and used adapters from autozone to go from the 2.5" of the stock tube to the 3" PVC. I also bought two rubber PVC couplers, one 45 degree and one straight, to make the turn to the wheel well. I removed the inner splash guard and put the filter just on the outside of the ridge where the plastic guard attached. I then cut out beside the foglight to allow fresh air flow, the filter is directly behind this part of the foglight housing. I have since made a diffuser to redirect water coming from the road. Basically it's a piece of sheet metal two inches from the hole so when the water hits it it falls down instead of soaking the filter, air can still flow around to the filter. here are some pics on my website. PM me if you need any more help
I just PM'ed this to another member and since I had to take the time to write it up I figured I would post it here as well. I will update when I get the g/f's camera so I can get better pics, the ones on my website are mainly for show and should only give a basic idea of the setup in stage one.
Last edited by DangerousDan; Aug 10, 2006 at 10:09 PM.
Aug 9, 2006, 03:25 PM
#6
PVC pipe gives off harmfull gases!!!
uh...don't use PVC pipe in your engine bay please! It gives off hydrochloric acid in its gas form which can travel into your engine bay!
http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives...4422.Ch.r.html
Got this paragraph from http://www.epi.state.nc.us/epi/oii/hcl/
Its about half way down on the page.
Common Routes of Hydrochloric Acid Exposure
As the concentration of hydrochloric acid increases, the symptoms become more severe. Acute exposures to hydrochloric acid can cause immediate burning of the eyes, nose, throat and/ or respiratory system. Itchy eyes, coughing and a burning nose can help to warn people of potentially hazardous exposure levels. The very young, the very old, and people with health problems are at an increased risk from the health effects of hydrochloric acid exposure.
Chronic Health Effects of Repeated Exposure to Hydrochloric Acid
Erosion of the teeth, chronic bronchial irritation with cough and/or chronic shortness of breath may occur with repeated or long-term exposure to hydrochloric acid. Skin rashes may also occur with repeated exposures of dilute concentrations of hydrochloric acid.
Hope this little read helps out.
http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives...4422.Ch.r.html
Got this paragraph from http://www.epi.state.nc.us/epi/oii/hcl/
Its about half way down on the page.
Common Routes of Hydrochloric Acid Exposure
- Inhalation. The most common way for hydrochloric acid to enter the body is through the respiratory
system. Signs and symptoms of hydrochloric acid inhalation can include:- Coughing
- Choking
- Burning of the throat
- Contact with the Skin. Hydrochloric acid can irritate the skin and cause chemical burns ranging from mild to severe depending on the concentration of the hydrochloric acid solution. Concentrated vapor or solution may cause the victim to experience pain, redness of the skin, and blisters. Signs displayed by skin exposed to liquefied hydrochloric acid can include frostbite, tissue death, or severe burns with deep ulcerations.
- Contact with the Eyes. Hydrochloric acid, even with short-term exposure, can irritate the eyes and cause burning, swelling, tearing of the eyes, blurred vision, photophobia, sloughing of the surface cells of the eye, and may cause blindness.
- Ingestion. Immediate burning in the mouth and throat occur when hydrochloric acid is swallowed. Ingestion of concentrated solution can cause severe pain in the mouth, chest and abdomen, nausea and vomiting.
As the concentration of hydrochloric acid increases, the symptoms become more severe. Acute exposures to hydrochloric acid can cause immediate burning of the eyes, nose, throat and/ or respiratory system. Itchy eyes, coughing and a burning nose can help to warn people of potentially hazardous exposure levels. The very young, the very old, and people with health problems are at an increased risk from the health effects of hydrochloric acid exposure.
Chronic Health Effects of Repeated Exposure to Hydrochloric Acid
Erosion of the teeth, chronic bronchial irritation with cough and/or chronic shortness of breath may occur with repeated or long-term exposure to hydrochloric acid. Skin rashes may also occur with repeated exposures of dilute concentrations of hydrochloric acid.
Hope this little read helps out.
Aug 9, 2006, 08:13 PM
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Thanks for the information. but......
Typical PVC has a softening temperature of 181F, with a maximum service temperature of 140F. Plasticised PVC is good to 221F without physical stresses, but I don't think PVC pipe from Home Depot is plasticised. Typical PVC also has a heat deflection temperature of over 170F. Translated to English this all means unless the intake air temp is over 140F, or your engine bay is consistently above 170F+, you won't have reverse polymerization. The only other way to get HCl out of PVC is with fire, and thats a no-brainer if you ask me. There are lot's of things in the car that will kill you if it's on fire, excluding the fire itself.
Of course, if you have your head inside the engine bay with the car running you have problems and the HCl is the least of your worrys.
While your information is helpful, it may not apply to an engine bay. It also appears less than credible at first glance. The misspelling of polymerization prompted me to do my own research, which is where my numbers came from. If you disagree, feel free to post up with more information with links to back it up.
Source
TANGRAM TECHNOLOGY Ltd. - Consulting Engineers for Plastics Products
http://www.tangram.co.uk/TI-Polymer-PVC.html Aug. 9, 2006
Typical PVC has a softening temperature of 181F, with a maximum service temperature of 140F. Plasticised PVC is good to 221F without physical stresses, but I don't think PVC pipe from Home Depot is plasticised. Typical PVC also has a heat deflection temperature of over 170F. Translated to English this all means unless the intake air temp is over 140F, or your engine bay is consistently above 170F+, you won't have reverse polymerization. The only other way to get HCl out of PVC is with fire, and thats a no-brainer if you ask me. There are lot's of things in the car that will kill you if it's on fire, excluding the fire itself.
Of course, if you have your head inside the engine bay with the car running you have problems and the HCl is the least of your worrys.
While your information is helpful, it may not apply to an engine bay. It also appears less than credible at first glance. The misspelling of polymerization prompted me to do my own research, which is where my numbers came from. If you disagree, feel free to post up with more information with links to back it up.
Source
TANGRAM TECHNOLOGY Ltd. - Consulting Engineers for Plastics Products
http://www.tangram.co.uk/TI-Polymer-PVC.html Aug. 9, 2006
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Aug 11, 2006, 04:46 PM
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the header gets that hot, and if your engine bay was sealed then the ambient temperature would reach close to the same temperature. However, engine bays are designed to hold engines, which need ventilation. If you stand beside your car when the radiator fan is going you can feel how much hot air it is pushing out of the engine bay. Not to mention the fact that air itself does not retain heat well, or more accurately the speed of the molecules that make up hot air cause it to dissipate rapidly, as well as the fact that heat rises so any hot air in the engine bay is constantly trying to escape on it's own. There are lot's of things I can say here, but to put it simply a very hot engine bay it within tolerable limits. If it wasn't you would have problems other than pvc melting.
Combine all the factors together. Your header gets hotter than 200 degrees, probably much hotter. The heat must transfer from the header to the surrounding air, where it cools very rapidly, and then to the pvc which has a heat deflection temp. of 170+degrees. If the pvc was within an inch or so you may have a problem, but nothing except the heat shield(if you have one still) and the engine itself is within an inch of the header.
If you still have worries, put a remote temperature sensor in your engine bay, or even just put a meat thermometer in there and open the hood and check it out. I promise you will be surprised at the difference between the engine and the air temperature surrounding it. If you dont' have either of these devices put your hand near the battery and slowly move it towards the header. It gets exponentially hotter, meaning it gets exponentially cooler going the other direction.
Combine all the factors together. Your header gets hotter than 200 degrees, probably much hotter. The heat must transfer from the header to the surrounding air, where it cools very rapidly, and then to the pvc which has a heat deflection temp. of 170+degrees. If the pvc was within an inch or so you may have a problem, but nothing except the heat shield(if you have one still) and the engine itself is within an inch of the header.
If you still have worries, put a remote temperature sensor in your engine bay, or even just put a meat thermometer in there and open the hood and check it out. I promise you will be surprised at the difference between the engine and the air temperature surrounding it. If you dont' have either of these devices put your hand near the battery and slowly move it towards the header. It gets exponentially hotter, meaning it gets exponentially cooler going the other direction.
Oct 1, 2006, 01:27 PM
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Hey dan, what kinda paint did you use for the battery hold down and the terminal cover, with it being rubber and all... Just vinyl paint? And Where'd u get that cable end for your negative, audio shop?
Sep 27, 2007, 10:59 PM
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for the ppl who have done this are the benifts similar to a cold air or non existent ? any drawbacks??? does the intake move around or needed some kinda support? does ti sound nice ? thx
Mar 24, 2009, 02:03 PM
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I don't know if this was posted anywhere but, will a cold air intake for M/T fit into an A/T? If not, is there any other intake that will fit into an A/T? Maybe a short ram? If someone can elaborate for me.
