MAF read intake temps in florida can get up to 170 degress because of engine compartment heat. If you blow through the MAF the temp will be read after the intercooler. If your intercooler doesnt cool the air back down to 170 degrees or lower you need a better intercooler. So intake temps read by MAF will be about the same.

Oil on MAF come from engine crankcase being recirculated to intake pipe. One of the first mods to turbo car is to not recirculate crankcase blow by into intake, This keeps MAF and intercooler free of oil. Turbos do not add oil to air.

doesn't matter where MAF is placed. cfm into engine is cfm into the engine. the amount of air that goes through meter will be the same before and after turbo for any given HP level.

The only problem with pressuring the MAF is the BARO reading will be maxed from the increase in pressure.

 

That's how I am looking at it. the only things that are changed are pressure and velocity, not mass. either way the MAF sensor shouldn't top out(at least according to my research) until well after the little bit of HP I am going to put on the ground.

do you think the barometric readings will create a problem if I am shooting for a max of 8 psi with this setup?

 

I'll tell ya the MAF isn't supposed to be pressurized (it's just not designed for that application) if you pressurize it you will might end up having to purchase a new one , and those are not cheap...

The MAF of our cars only fluctuates in certain frequency which is limited by some CFM values, I know this cause I needed to calibrate it once I nstalled a smt-6 once the value of the MAF is topped then reading of the MAP will ontinue on .....

 

They will sometimes when the oil bearing fails ........ or when the turbo impeller hesitates because of backpressure of the throttle plate if not using a BOV.....

 

I am more concerned with turbulence than pressure at this point for the sensor, and distance from the throttle body is second. Apparently these are two important factors in a MAF driven fuel system, and I want to accomodate the car as much as possible here.

If the MAF is before the turbo the IAT's won't read accurately, and this is a big factor in fuel delivery; I don't want the fuel being controlled by the knock sensors.

If you vent to atmosphere the BOV has to be before the MAF, and I don't want to recirc for two reasons. The first is BOV reaction time, which takes stress off the turbo. The quicker it will blow off the better. The second is location. If I can have the MAF after the turbo I can leave it in the stock location. Of course I want the sound too, but that's not a determining factor.

Thanks for the help so far everyone, lot's of good information.

 

ok there is a guy in oz forum who already done this, he claims there is no issue putting maf after turbo, i think it is okey too!! well check out his thread or pm him. but this has been already cover long times ago
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ight=tsi+turbo

 

I figured as much, using google I was able to find a few threads here, thanks for the link I will check it out.

There is plenty of information on the internet about this, but most are not specific about the MAF type, or mention more than one type.

 

about the temperature, to keep it low, should go for the water/air setup offered by RPW, keeps constant ~35*C

 

Well I have used it like this for a very long time and haven't had problems yet. Probably once U get to a certain boost-temp level it might experience problems 18psi +plus but for now its more responsive close to the T-body and in my experience works better for my application.

 

sounds like a plan for someone in the desert, it's not going to be an issue where I am living.

 

exactly why I started this thread. I am learning about cars as I go, and the little things are pretty important for long term operation.

 

Ok new update, i went outside today to fiddle with this stupid flutter problem. First i checked all lines, and they were all fine, tightened everything, and listened for leaks, and it was all good. So then i said what the heck i will fool around a bit, so i pulled the recurculation tube off my blitz dd. Then i said well i want to see if the cylinder in the bov is working properly, so i pulled that little face plate off the blitz dd bov, and started it up to see if it opened when i let off the gas. Well it was wierd because it sounded LOUD and perfectm not like the flutter noise when the recurculation tube and bov face plate was on there, which was the wierd part becuase i did'nt plug the recurculation tube i just let it hang there. It did iddle rough so i desided to plug my recurculation tube, and bam it shut off WTF WTF!!!, so then i sdesided i wil take my K&N filter off, so i did. The recurculation tube was still pluged and bov still vented, and pppppssshhhhhhhh, again just a little bit softer since it was coming through the pipe insead of straight from the bov. Can anyone help me with this i cant for the love of god find out what the why it works like that, and it is killin me. So then i put the recurculation tube back on the bov, and my filter back on and bam flutter time once again, Someone pleeeaaassseee help!
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here is the full thread of mine

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...er-please.html