DIY Log manifold
Feb 26, 2011, 08:14 AM
#1
DIY Log manifold
Ok...so the cast manifold from ebay, doesn't fit...that brings me back to our original choices...RRM, RPW or custom (i think there are others)...however i decided to see if i could do it myself which is what i had been planning on doing all along, but got sidetracked with the promise of a cast manifold...anyways there are a lot of DIY kits out there, mostly for Honda...though i was not sure what grade or thickness of steel they were selling...I tried to source the steel on my own, and only found suppliers overseas who ship bulk orders...so i contacted Ziggy at RTM Racing and though he does not stock this type of product he was able find a supplier and for a few extra bucks send it my way...these are 3/16 thick buttweld fittings....so i have a lot of of wrok ahead of me, as you can see i have quite a bit of cutting and fitting to do before i even think about welding...wish me luck...
P.S. got the 4G69 flange from Road Race Engineering (not RRM) for about half the price ($35) that's listed on RRM...the buttweld fittings were $70 plus shipping
Homemade 4g69 turbo manifold for 2.4L Lancer Ralliart
P.S. got the 4G69 flange from Road Race Engineering (not RRM) for about half the price ($35) that's listed on RRM...the buttweld fittings were $70 plus shipping
Homemade 4g69 turbo manifold for 2.4L Lancer Ralliart
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Apr 12, 2014 at 08:23 PM. Reason: update image URL, added tags...i think
Feb 26, 2011, 06:20 PM
#5
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Good luck on the manifold build. It looks like you got a lot of cutting ahead of you. LMK when you want to get rid of that cast manifold, I could use a nice paperweight to look at and daydream about.
Feb 26, 2011, 09:46 PM
#6
the cast manifold is going for sale...i was going to register on club4G and try to sell it there, cause it's made for the eclipse, but i can't really sell there unless i'm active on the forum...if you want it PM me, then you'll have it if you ever decide to boost...i'm looking for 140$ plus shipping, cause that's about what i paid for it...STR (the guys who have it cast) sell it for 250$
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Feb 26, 2011 at 09:51 PM.
...great job...
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Mar 14, 2011, 01:25 PM
#8
i'll be starting my measuring and calculating the cuts required to make it all line up very shortly, so i'll have updates then, but the flange won't be going on till i have the snail in hand, to verify fitment...right now i'm working on other things like clutch, LSD and mounts...once i have it cut, and mig tacked i'll update you all on the process...i'll be having it tigged once it takes its final shape...
Mar 24, 2011, 05:36 PM
#9
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)This manifold was made by MAPerformance, here in Minnesota. If you look close at the flange, it was "home-made", and is pretty simple...doesn't have the articulation of the RRM one canswick has. However, the stock gasket mates up without any probelm, and I don't have any leaking around it.
Mar 25, 2011, 09:24 AM
#10
it's funny that the RRM flange is like 70$ but the same flange from RRE is 35$
this thing is being cut and welded some time in april when i have access to a shop, for a true DIY...i'm having a friend who's a welder do the welding, i'll just be overseeing/learning....
at first i'll just be building the log itself, and later the flange once i have a turbo to test fit...unless you can give me some angles and distances for the flange blackraven?
what snail you got bolted to that anyways?
this thing is being cut and welded some time in april when i have access to a shop, for a true DIY...i'm having a friend who's a welder do the welding, i'll just be overseeing/learning....
at first i'll just be building the log itself, and later the flange once i have a turbo to test fit...unless you can give me some angles and distances for the flange blackraven?
what snail you got bolted to that anyways?
Mar 25, 2011, 12:46 PM
#11
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It's a Mitsubishi 16G. I'll certainly help out if I can, let me know specifically what you're looking for, and I'll try to get some measurements for ya.
Mar 25, 2011, 07:21 PM
#12
the position of the turbo flange...like its lateral position of the flange, i can see it's offset a bit from the center of the second runner from the right...and the distance from the head, as well as any angles that were required for clearing the starter motor without running into the the rad fans...my down pipe will be different as i'm using a TD05 O2 housing, it should have similar clearance to yours, only with the internal gate...
and a few more
where's your MAF, and do you find the 16g laggy at all?? i was thinking of running a 14b which would be more of a quick spooling street turbo, which would be fun to drive, but with our low end torque i worry it might produce too much boost in the low end, leading to ridiculous traction issues...so i was thinking if the 16g was a bit laggy that would be better, especially being mated to a 2.4L...
and a few more
where's your MAF, and do you find the 16g laggy at all?? i was thinking of running a 14b which would be more of a quick spooling street turbo, which would be fun to drive, but with our low end torque i worry it might produce too much boost in the low end, leading to ridiculous traction issues...so i was thinking if the 16g was a bit laggy that would be better, especially being mated to a 2.4L...
Mar 25, 2011, 11:37 PM
#13
16g turbo is not laggy at all. My suspension and alignment guy does all sorts of Subaru's(Mitsu has a small scene here), and when he took me out for a spin after some suspension tuning he loved the car. Said the turbo had very little to none lag. And he was goin hard too lol
Mar 26, 2011, 08:28 AM
#14
how's the launch? i don't know if having too much boost pre-launch is going to cause traction issues...i have an LSD on the way, but i still worry about that....i'm not sure, but maybe a 14b would spool too quick? but at 7-9psi i would think a 14b would be more efficient as a 16g has much more headroom...
Mar 27, 2011, 01:37 PM
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14b is a great little turbo, the problem with them is that good specimen are getting next to impossible to find. All 16g's are purchased aftermarket, so by definition, they are newer and tend to be in better condition 
.
Spooling wise, 16G is 300-400rpm laggier, which isn't all that significant IMO.
.Spooling wise, 16G is 300-400rpm laggier, which isn't all that significant IMO.