RRM Clutch Line
RRM Clutch Line
I've read in pervious threads about replacing the stock clutch line with the RRM s/s line.
Will this get rid of the "bunny hopping" when the engine is cold? and what other benefits does it have?
Will this get rid of the "bunny hopping" when the engine is cold? and what other benefits does it have?
I'm not so sure about getting rid of the wheel hop but, a Zaklee Torque Damper should minimise the wheel hop greatly.
Probably best to ask ROCK regarding the clutchline.
Probably best to ask ROCK regarding the clutchline.
Abstracted from the vendor himself.
Your engine is suspended between two engine mounts, basically one on each fender wall. If you've ever seen a dyno pull, you'll know that during operation, the engine rocks backward when under power, and forwards when you get off the throttle under engine braking.
Drivetrain lash can be demonstrated easily this way: get your car in second gear at around 3000 rpms. Now alternately floor and fully release the gas pedal at a rate of three cycles per second. Bouncy, eh? That's drivetrain lash. A little piece of it is in the gears, and another little piece of it is in the A-arm bushings.
The majority of it is in the engine mounts. Way stiff polyurethane rally engine mounts are available, but they tend to tranmit lots of vibration to your body shell - not a great thing for a daily driver.
An drivetrain lash damper in essence adds a shock absorber to a point on your engine that is as far away as possible from the engine's axis of rotation. It limits the amount of rotation that the engine can do when you go from throttle on to throttle off. It makes the car feel "tight" when driving, mostly when transitioning from throttle on to throttle off, which is a good thing.
Full thread can be found here
Your engine is suspended between two engine mounts, basically one on each fender wall. If you've ever seen a dyno pull, you'll know that during operation, the engine rocks backward when under power, and forwards when you get off the throttle under engine braking.
Drivetrain lash can be demonstrated easily this way: get your car in second gear at around 3000 rpms. Now alternately floor and fully release the gas pedal at a rate of three cycles per second. Bouncy, eh? That's drivetrain lash. A little piece of it is in the gears, and another little piece of it is in the A-arm bushings.
The majority of it is in the engine mounts. Way stiff polyurethane rally engine mounts are available, but they tend to tranmit lots of vibration to your body shell - not a great thing for a daily driver.
An drivetrain lash damper in essence adds a shock absorber to a point on your engine that is as far away as possible from the engine's axis of rotation. It limits the amount of rotation that the engine can do when you go from throttle on to throttle off. It makes the car feel "tight" when driving, mostly when transitioning from throttle on to throttle off, which is a good thing.
Full thread can be found here
Alternatively, you can read all the reviews for the Zaklee Torque Damper here
However, after reading the last page, it seems as though Robert (vendor) is no longer stocking them! Sorry.
There is another option though, NorthStar Creations.
Reviews can be found here and here.
However, after reading the last page, it seems as though Robert (vendor) is no longer stocking them! Sorry.
There is another option though, NorthStar Creations.
Reviews can be found here and here.
Last edited by MITVRX; May 29, 2007 at 06:46 AM.
Trending Topics
i still have wheel hop with the dampener.. haha it sucks but i'll do motormounts someday...
on a lighter note i think a bumble bee on steroids just drove myself...(aka a mini bike thing at open throttle.. haha)
I will probably be doing the full upper and lower clutch lines when i do my clutch... later in teh fall maybe..
on a lighter note i think a bumble bee on steroids just drove myself...(aka a mini bike thing at open throttle.. haha)
I will probably be doing the full upper and lower clutch lines when i do my clutch... later in teh fall maybe..
I have the rrm solid mounts and the engine dampener kit , wheel hop is reduced down to a minimal but a little vibration can be felt from inside the cabin at low rpms (idle)
I changed both clutch lines and clutch is definitively harder
I changed both clutch lines and clutch is definitively harder
no engine lift was needed for me ,you could get a 2x4 and put it on the jack an the jack on the oil pan don't raise it ,just have there to cease any movement, the install was a bit of a PITA,but I don't know how helpful any of this really can be in that your car is completely different.I'd give ROB a call at RRM....
i still get hops even if i had engine dampener, but then it's due to the hot spot on the clutch/flywheel. it doesn't hop all the time, but usually when it get a bit warmer. from what i know, the engine will hop if your clutch and flywheel does not engage evenly. (i learned stick in my RA, so prolly that's why it's messed up). and if u get the engine mounts or engine dampener, you will feel more vibration inside the car during idle, or your RPM will drop during idle and occasionally cause staling.
p.s. i believe engine mounts > engine dampeners since the mounts are more evenly stiff rather than the dampener that holds only on 1 side.
p.s. i believe engine mounts > engine dampeners since the mounts are more evenly stiff rather than the dampener that holds only on 1 side.
BTW, RRM motor mounts are a great buy/upgrade in any event!



