cat back question
Well, bro, U dont beleive what are not claims, this were proven numbers...I just dont have the physical data to show you. Same dyno, different days... consistent HP, u get 2 runs I did them half an hour apart because I drove a long way and the car was still hot on the first run... second run was the same... couple of decimals higher no big deal.
It goes agaisnt physics, as you say... but these where my numbers...not much I can do about it...I cant talk to the dyno and say " BAD DYNO!!!, respect physics".
Anyways, no thread hi-jacking lets just help this friend with his need, because we are gonna be here for hours, for nothing... while the personj in need stays....in need
It goes agaisnt physics, as you say... but these where my numbers...not much I can do about it...I cant talk to the dyno and say " BAD DYNO!!!, respect physics".
Anyways, no thread hi-jacking lets just help this friend with his need, because we are gonna be here for hours, for nothing... while the personj in need stays....in need
you are right, this is off topic, but you need to understand that there is scientific reasoning behind your dyno numbers. different days mean different conditions. before you can claim a 10 lb drop in rotational mass doesn't create any torque gain in your car, or even as you claim a LOSS of torque, you need to analyze the possible reasons for the numbers. your numbers were different for many reasons, none of which can detract from an inertia change. your net gain was there, but it was offset by other factors. If you dyno on a cool day your numbers are much better than on a hot day. don't say you lost torque, and then say the car picks up better in lower gears, you are contradicting yourself.like I said man, if you really think you lost power when you put the pulley on the car then...
D
U
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Dude...lol, for the love of GOD!! Im just giving you the numbers, Im not trying to explain anything.. I know it contradicts itself, believe me, I know...but THOSE were the numbers..
When my tranny gets fixed this month(hopefully) I will take it to the dyno with the clutch flywheel combo to see if theres any difference. I will document it now that I have the ways to do it on the spot
When my tranny gets fixed this month(hopefully) I will take it to the dyno with the clutch flywheel combo to see if theres any difference. I will document it now that I have the ways to do it on the spot
well i bought the rrm header/downpipe and am waiting for that in the mail and to finish everything off i was going to buy a skunk2 muffler and have it welded on, im assuming the only reason you geta cat back is to up the diameter on the system but if the 2.25 inches is enough for a NA car then wouldnt a muffler do just fine
Dude...lol, for the love of GOD!! Im just giving you the numbers, Im not trying to explain anything.. I know it contradicts itself, believe me, I know...but THOSE were the numbers..
When my tranny gets fixed this month(hopefully) I will take it to the dyno with the clutch flywheel combo to see if theres any difference. I will document it now that I have the ways to do it on the spot
When my tranny gets fixed this month(hopefully) I will take it to the dyno with the clutch flywheel combo to see if theres any difference. I will document it now that I have the ways to do it on the spot
and in case they aren't: the issue brought up by kreepa is by no means a scientifically supported claim. The research was done, and properly I might add, by Joe's_evo8 a couple years ago. he dynoed the vehicle with the factory pulley, uninstalled it and put on the new pulley, and dynoed again. the net gains were 5-6 WHP and 9 WTQ. I don't remember the type of dyno, but I would assume it was an inertia dyno. Joe designed the pulley, and after having a few made decided it was better and easier for everyone if RRM took over his pulley. that's also why some people can say they have joe's pulley

not sure what you are asking, dude, but the stock pipe size is 2" IIRC. 2.25 is an upgrade. the cat back is not the weak part of the exhaust. the only way to get cheap reliable HP is to research and do custom work. bolt ons are expensive, but that's also why the guys in PR have faster cars (that and spare engine availability
) They don't just pick up the phone and order stuff to make the car go faster
and for the record, anyone watching this little internet debate, I don't have a problem with kreepa, only his un-clarified statement about losing TQ with the pulley. I have no doubt his dynos showed those numbers(just for different reasons than initially stated), but misinformation upsets me, especially when I have been getting at least a PM each day from new members asking for clarification of this or that, or even like the one I got today that I can't figure out:
help
does that one actually work and what is diff from that one and the one in the book....is there anyone you know of that has one that works no bs
does that one actually work and what is diff from that one and the one in the book....is there anyone you know of that has one that works no bs
I don't even know what the hell he is talking about
do you guys?
haha MITVRX... so true
But yes many have said the UDP is the best bang for the buck.
For the OP:
You'll loose some low end tq and gain up high with your new setup. I opted for the SRI, and the RRM CBE to balance it out a bit, obviously i don't have dyno numbers because I'm too cheap to bring it to the dyno. But I definitely noticed some loss in low end but when i floor it up top on the highway it definitely goes.
I'll be getting a piggyback in, and the UDP to help compensate a bit more too. Good luck with your setup.
But yes many have said the UDP is the best bang for the buck.
For the OP:
You'll loose some low end tq and gain up high with your new setup. I opted for the SRI, and the RRM CBE to balance it out a bit, obviously i don't have dyno numbers because I'm too cheap to bring it to the dyno. But I definitely noticed some loss in low end but when i floor it up top on the highway it definitely goes.
I'll be getting a piggyback in, and the UDP to help compensate a bit more too. Good luck with your setup.
just a Q to do with OP sorta
im looking at getting RPW 4-1 41mm headers, HFC and CBE,
i already have SRI and UDP, will i loose any more low end, if so, would it be better getting 2" instead of 2.25"
(BTW this is for 4sp AUTO)
im looking at getting RPW 4-1 41mm headers, HFC and CBE,
i already have SRI and UDP, will i loose any more low end, if so, would it be better getting 2" instead of 2.25"
(BTW this is for 4sp AUTO)


