ok so i have a sri, cbe, and suppose i get the udp and piggy. how much horsepower.. both wheel and crank i will have?

 

probably 165

 

is that to the wheels? or crank

 

well with 162 at the crank stock....its probably wheel hp

 

true I have a hard time converting from wheel to crank.. lets say i do have 165 to the wheels how much do u think it will be crank? does anyone else have problems with this? or am i just dumb

 

i believe its 18% loss from crank to wheels with our cars stock

 

RRM has dyno sheets with those mods minus the UDP at around 160~, give or take 5-7 horses. As far as at the crank, I couldn't say. I personally believe that mitsu underrated our cars to begin with. The sentra se-R spec V on paper makes more at the crank, but at least according to an SCC article, the R/A put down more to the wheels. By my crappy logic that suggests to me that our cars are approx 175~ chp, or nissan inflated their numbers.

If you stand to make approx 30 extra horses with the mods you are planning, I suppose you can also just add that 30 to whatever mitsu rated your car at to get an approximate guess as to what the car is making at the crank. In otherwords, simply stated:

~192 hp ATC, - after faster car envy and fisherman's measurements kick in, you're at nearly 220 hp ATC!!!!

 

I thought it was more like 10-15% loss from crank to wheels?

 

Lots of variables can change these numbers. As a rule of thumb, figure between 15-20% for FWD cars with a manual transmission, add another 10% to that if you're driving a car with an automatic transmission. I've heard our drivetrain loss was much less, the dyno numbers seem to suggest that may be the case.

 

I drive an automatic 05 Ralliart with an SRI, and rrm ucp. It seems the car feels sluggish out of the 60ft at the drags, more so than when it was stock. I haven't reset the computer yet. Does this make a big diff and does anyone know how well neutral dropping it would work or is that a quick trip to the junk yard? Muffler removal is the next step.

 

My understanding of things is that neutral dropping it is *very* hard on your transmission. Instead, hit the breaks, and while keeping the breaks depressed tap the gas to load it up and then launch that way. This, of course, is just what I have heard.

 

works for me!!

 

I have tried brake torquing and revved the engine as high as 2500rpm but there was no difference in performance between that and just mashing the gas and going. Kind of frustrated so exhaust mods seem like next best thing. Anyone know wether rrm piggyback for autos really increases perf? Thanks

 

^will let u know soon, ordereed mine and they sent it off yesterday
atm i only have SRI and pulley

looking at header back next with a tune

 

Brake boost, never over 3500 rpm.... neutral drops work way better, but can kiss your tranny good bye pretty fast.

Back on Topic, you can make around 175 - 180 hp @the wheel on bolt ons...all depends on simple variables... but if its breathing mods and a tune, it should be around there

If you go ported IM, cam, a piggy tune for those mods youll be looking at 200 +

Proven, you can make 170 with Cai, header and pulley..prolly a bit more