Ok as some of you know my tming belt snapped awhile ago bent all intake valves etc etc. After tryin all the work ourselves and running into problems left and right we sent it to the mechanic. We sent it back due to the car not idling after about 45 seconds. ell the mechanic discovered the balance shaft was off on the timing and that the cam had got pretty much destroyed due to use putting the rockers on wrong. Sad face.

Anyway the mechanic just calles, said after putting in new cam and everything the car sounds a million times better. But STILL wont idle. Hes not sure why. This only started after the timing belt snapped. anyone know anything that may help? The car is throwing no codes or anything.

 

Also I just recalled the "Idler" was not replaced. Is it possible when the timing belt snapped it harmmed this and this is causing it to not idle?

 

Any ideas anyone?

 

I'm confused. Your mechanic seems pretty dumb to me. How does it "sound" better if it's not idleing? That just doesnt make any sense to me. Do you mean that the idle fluctuates or it just constantly revs high or turns on and cuts off? What do you mean that it wont idle? Show us a video or a better description to help us out better with this.

 

Ok heres what was going on, the cars balance shft was off so would cause vibration. The valve lash was way off causing tapping, not to mention when we installed the rollers wrong it had cause the cam to pretty much melt. So he got all the new parts on, valve lash done, and all timing perfect. So no bad sounds coming from motor.

When you start the car and its first started it will idle at around 1000-1300 RPM at first. that was always normal with my car. Then after a couple min the idle would drop down to the normal 700 rpm. But when it comes time to return to normal Idle range, the motor dies. The mechanic is thinking the ECU for some reason wont stabilize the idle when it goes into open loop. Strange thing it the car is not throwing any codes what so ever.

 

Also it WILL say running if you hold the gas above the normal idle range.

 

Sounds like the ECU is trying to learn and stalling out during the process. Is there a CEL?

 

Sorry to bash your mechanic. But what otter said. It sounds as if your ecu isnt learning all the way. I would say go get another ecu but that is fairly expensive. I don't think the ecu is giving the car a chance to throw any cel's at all. I know when I had my ecu relearn i would have to let it run without the a/c on for 30 mins and then drive for an hour and then let it idle with the a/c on. If I had the a/c on during the first process it would shut off.

does anyone have the stock mapping for this guys car. What year is your ralliart? I'm sure someone has the map. Then you can give it to your mechanic to flash on to your ecu. But with as much problems as your having it sounds best to get another 4g69 motor and play with this one to see what happened or what's causing the shut off.

Oh do you have any mod's. Like CAI and exhaust. I know those shouldnt cause a car to shut off during learning but it sounds as if your car is not sucking in enough air and locks up due to poor intake. Check your intake manifold for leaks or something.

 

My mechanics original thought was that the ECU needed to be flashed. He had said sometimes that if the cars set awhile they can sometimes lose their memory. I called road race and asked brian if it was possible and he had said no so we wrote it off. So they did all the motor work to make sure it wasnt that.

Unfortunatly I do not have money for a new motor or ecu. the car has

Cold Air Intake(AEM)
RRM Headers/Downpipe
Custom Cat Back
Timing Box(timing box is not pluged in while we are doing the work or trying to get it to run)
RRM Piggyback.

its a 2005 model.

 

And to answer you otter there is no CEL. Thats why its so weird.

 

There's no flashing needed, the ECU just goes through a learning process. I'm tempted to say that, if there's no CEL and nothing obviously wrong, give it a few attempts to let it idle for about 10 minutes (if you can get it to go that long) then take it for a drive. When I have my battery dc'd for awhile, the engine will sometimes stall once or twice before it relearns.

 

I recently did a head gasket on a 94 gti, after getting the car timed again it would stall out after a minute or two with no codes. Turned out it was because the air filter wasn't on... after all that work. pissy vw's haha. I know vw's aren't mitsu's but it could be something as small as that maybe. . . ? remote possibility ha. I would think like otter said, if you can manage to get it to run for 10 minutes (let alone a whole minute) and can take it for a quick boot you should be in the clear.. nothing seems evidently wrong with the computer if the car does run (even for that short time) with a normal start up and isn't throwing codes but it also might not be running long enough for your car to have the opportunity to throw a CEL in the first place...

Err, take out the piggyback, plug it in and flash with a stock map? Maybe the car will run from there, you can always re install the piggyback. Maybe the piggyback needs to be re-tuned.

If it does turn out to be the ecu I sent you a pm, let me know if that helps you out in any way.

 

Problem is I cant get it to run for more than 60 seconds. I went ahead and ordered a new ECU thank to a GREAT deal that nerdbot tipped me off to. Thanks man!

Anyway its an 06 ecu, is there much difference between the 05 and 06 ecu?

Only reason we havnt disconnected the piggy yet is because we soldered it in and its a pain lol.

 

There is a difference in the ECUs in regards to the maps.

 

I know the mivec engages a little later if im correct but otherwise its generally the same no?