ok so yesterday ironically, on the way home from M.O.D, i stopped at a couple places and both stops the car would not start, it wouldnt do anything, wouldnt crank no lights nothing. then it would randomly start, we thought the battery was going out.

This morning it would try to turn over then the battery would conk out. When i got a charger on it then finally got it going i had a few codes this time, P0340, the cam sensor, one for fuel level sensor circuit malfunction and then random evap codes.

We swapped out the battery and the battery does not die right away now(obvious had bad battery but not the real issue) and it still wont start. though i did get it to kick on twice it died seconds later. Now the camshaft position sensor code is mainly the only code that pops up(randomly the fuel level one will but no evaps).

Im thinking the sensor went out but want to ask you guys opinions before i order a sensor and have that not be the issue.

 

The cam posiiton sensor is significantly easier to replace thanthe crank posiiton sensor. Replace it and see.

 

Alternator?

 

Check all grounds - to alternator, to engine, to body. Clean alternator pos and neg terminals.

 

I have a cam sensor on order at oriely, will be in later today, ill check all those later when i get to the car, the grounds all looked to be fine , and if my alternator was going wouldnt i had had issues driving or my battery light pop on?when i got it started the first time yesterday the car drove fine

 

how far did you drive, you can drive for quite some time on battery power alone, on some vehicles, and if the alternator connection is intermittent, then it could cause a similar issue.

I had a problem like that once in my truck, what it ended up being was inside my starter was a loose contact shorting to the case of the starter, so it would kill my battery, but because it was flopping around, sometimes it would short and sometimes it wouldn't, and run just fine, i went through 2 batteries and 2 solenoids before i figured it out. A digital multimeter helps.

 

I drove for a good hour an a half. Roughly 115 miles

 

I'm in agreement with Cranswick, my brother's spec-v had a similar problem. His alternator was arcing on to his header and various other engine components, went through two batteries before the scorch marks on the bottom of the hood etc became visible.

It left him stranded a few times and made his car run poorly, what felt like misfiring was actually a break in the circuit causing the car to "pause" when running (ecu gave him a handful of different codes, one of them was related to the coilpacks being fried and not functional, and another for cylinder misfiring related to the coil packs, etc). Killed the alternator and drained the battery entirely. Jumping it would get it going again, but it would randomly die out while driving and wouldn't even crank most times.

 

Problem solved. Somehow my middle plug on the ecu itself unplugged just enough to not contact. Not sure how but once plugged in fired right up.

 

I knew it was electrical, nice to know it was such an easy fix...so was the battery even dying?

 

Yes the battery was a piece of crap. Tying would have a severe amount of corrosion at all times even within a day of cleaning it

 

mine sucks too, i think i'm going to give the mini battery a shot. just to make some room for piping etc.

 

i wanted the mini battery but couldnt wait on ordering one lol

 

For you Canadians, about the mini battery, here is the best price - with free shipping - I have ever seen for an Odyssey PC680:
http://saskbattery.com/

btw, I saw in Walmart an Energizer battery type AGM similar to the Odyssey PC680 for about $115. You'd have to research to check amperage specs though, and if the terminal kit contains car battery posts.

 

I have an AC Delco in mine