Drop in K&N Filter
to again answer the classic noob question!
i have had ALL THREE KINDS of intake in my OZ.
1. THE PANEL FILTER (aka K&N). i highly reccomend for its low price and its ability to completely maintain your warranty. you can find it for only about 60 bucks online if you look. i haven't used the ralliart panel, but i think its overpriced (like all their stuff) and won't last nearly as long.
2. THE SRI (aka short ram). this can also been done cheaply (ebay like 30 bucks) but has a SERIOUS drawback. HEATSOAK! sure, once you're rolling this is probably just as good as a CAI due to the volume and temperature of air being about equal at that point, but from a standstill... LOOK OUT! HEAT BOGGING! especially here in florida in the summer. from a stoplight, the engine would bog BAD if i floored it. HOWEVER it did sound great, and had kindofa "turbo" kick-in feel from first once it overcame the hot air.
3. THE CAI (aka cold air intake). if you have the money (don't pay more than 200), this is your best option for the most power. i reccomend AEM since it is a QUALITY and well established name brand, and it is VERY LIGHT! it was lighter than the stock air box. "but what about hydrolock, or rainy days, or water...?!" ENOUGH ALREADY! look, i drove through about 6 inches of standing water by accident off an exit during a freaking MONSOON in florida and threw water up 10 feet on both sides. i gasped with horror as i waited for the engine to choke and die... IT DIDN'T! my advice though: KEEP THE UNDERBODY PANELS AND FAKE FRONT VENTS ON! i didn't have a bypass valve, and was saved because even when splashing, i was shielded. unless you are driving across a stream, you're fine.
i have had ALL THREE KINDS of intake in my OZ.
1. THE PANEL FILTER (aka K&N). i highly reccomend for its low price and its ability to completely maintain your warranty. you can find it for only about 60 bucks online if you look. i haven't used the ralliart panel, but i think its overpriced (like all their stuff) and won't last nearly as long.
2. THE SRI (aka short ram). this can also been done cheaply (ebay like 30 bucks) but has a SERIOUS drawback. HEATSOAK! sure, once you're rolling this is probably just as good as a CAI due to the volume and temperature of air being about equal at that point, but from a standstill... LOOK OUT! HEAT BOGGING! especially here in florida in the summer. from a stoplight, the engine would bog BAD if i floored it. HOWEVER it did sound great, and had kindofa "turbo" kick-in feel from first once it overcame the hot air.
3. THE CAI (aka cold air intake). if you have the money (don't pay more than 200), this is your best option for the most power. i reccomend AEM since it is a QUALITY and well established name brand, and it is VERY LIGHT! it was lighter than the stock air box. "but what about hydrolock, or rainy days, or water...?!" ENOUGH ALREADY! look, i drove through about 6 inches of standing water by accident off an exit during a freaking MONSOON in florida and threw water up 10 feet on both sides. i gasped with horror as i waited for the engine to choke and die... IT DIDN'T! my advice though: KEEP THE UNDERBODY PANELS AND FAKE FRONT VENTS ON! i didn't have a bypass valve, and was saved because even when splashing, i was shielded. unless you are driving across a stream, you're fine.
just got my k&n panel filter installed
not a "kick in the pants" difference.. it's very suttle (sp?)
when up top (4750rpm +) the engines pulls considerable better
-joe
not a "kick in the pants" difference.. it's very suttle (sp?)
when up top (4750rpm +) the engines pulls considerable better
-joe
Ok, so I touched the piping for my CAI after a long drive and it was hot to the touch, not scolding hot, but still hot. But I also touched my strut tower brace, which is above and behind the motor and it was even hotter than the CAI pipe, so I dont think it really matters where you locate the pipes they'll still get hot. I might use more heat resistant material on the pipes if I ever have the motivation to take it all out and put it all back in again 
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Originally Posted by Deltarider99
I saw that Ralliart makes a drop in air filter. I'm wondering, do all Lancers have the same air filter size, EVO included?
i didnt feel like going through the whole thread..
Evolved Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 575
Likes: 1
From: Fairview Heights, Illinois
story of going to discount auto parts <------------------
employee goes " hi how may i help you"
me "yeah im lookin for a K&N air filter for a 2004 lancer ralliart 2.4 L "
employee " alright just a second"
**typing a bit**
employee " yeah we have to order that... and it would be $69.98"
me " discount auto parts? are you going to give me a discount? "
employee " i dont really know why they're so expensive... but shet.. i dont use it. so i dont really give a ***.."
me " ....ill be back "
$69.98 at discount auto parts.. DISCOUNT AUTO PARTS.
employee goes " hi how may i help you"
me "yeah im lookin for a K&N air filter for a 2004 lancer ralliart 2.4 L "
employee " alright just a second"
**typing a bit**
employee " yeah we have to order that... and it would be $69.98"
me " discount auto parts? are you going to give me a discount? "
employee " i dont really know why they're so expensive... but shet.. i dont use it. so i dont really give a ***.."
me " ....ill be back "
$69.98 at discount auto parts.. DISCOUNT AUTO PARTS.
I've dug up what I think is the best price for the K&N 33-2105 :
http://evoconnection.com/catalog/pro...products_id=43
I wonder who these guys are though...
http://evoconnection.com/catalog/pro...products_id=43
I wonder who these guys are though...
Last edited by WoRkZ; May 7, 2004 at 09:37 PM.
Originally Posted by sillypuddy
i got mine for $95 CAD
-joe
-joe
Was that at Canadian Tires? Any other suggestion on where to look for it besides online... I'm still not comfortable ordering online for car parts...