that's exactly what i want to do with my intake but i'm still reconsidering as i don't want to hack off my stock air box. i know you bought the adapter tubes and it looks awesome

hopefully we figure out what's wrong with it ASAP so you can enjoy the full potential of your DIY mod!

cheers bro!

 

Hmm.. I'd suspend the tube a bit instead of letting it hang there. I used zip ties and hung it from the strut bar. Also some sort of heat shield will help, and I cant tell from the picture but I'd have the stock snorkel on there to funnel cooler outside air onto the filter. Not as cold as a CAI but it does make a difference. I know Ive popped my hood after driving and the difference between the space inside my heat shield feels 30-40 degrees cooler than the space outside it.

Everything else looks fine though. I might fab up the stuff I mentioned above then reset the ECU and try it again.

EDIT:: added picture for reference.

 

thanks for the advice i was planning to work into stuff as i went i defiantly wanted to heat shield it and i was working on some kinda bracket but zip-ties sounds good also

just got done driving on really long roads that don't have red lights about 30 minutes put 20 miles on it, and it did really good. no check engine, i didn't feel any power block or anything, i could tell the computer was adjusting after the few red lights i had to go through but after 20 miles it was feeling and sounding really good. I'm hoping it keeps it up knock on wood, but so far so good.

i think i didn't let the battery stay disconnected long enough to reset fuel trims yesterday i disconnected it then hooked it right back up not thinking about residual energy maybe in the system. i left it unhooked overnight and let it idle about 20 minutes before i drove it.

i did hear a weird noise coming from the engine bay when sitting still or barley moving but i am almost 100% sure its the filter knocking against the old mount for the stock airbox.

 

what is that being used to connect the MAF housing to the stock intake elbow? i looks wrinkly, like tape or something, that has to have a solid seal, if it's leaking it will draw air from the joint, which is behind the MAF, so your engine is getting un-metered air, which will throw your AFR off, and the ECU may throw MAF related trouble codes...

 

It's tape but its sealed up pretty good. I had to put the mass air flow sensor tube over the stock part right there and there was no other way to get them to stay together. They were snug as it was and I just took Teflon tape and made them seal and duct taped it really good. Like I yanked it and it wasn't going no where. I'm sure no air is getting through but maybe something like this could make me sure?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-76mm-Rubbe...51fe55&vxp=mtr

Also just got another check engine light at 30 miles. But the cars running good, no loss in power but no gain, I'm thinking its a to lean code but ima get it checked out later today in an hour or so.
If its to lean is it gonna hurt the car? I thought we already ran pretty rich so shouldn't it be fine? It's driving good but I also hate having that light on cause then you don't know if something really is wrong...

 

Also just added black zip ties to keep it up,

 

if it's lean, you could run the risk of getting knock, that can be VERY bad...a silicone coupler won't do you any good, because you need something solid on both sides to clamp to...

Also short ram intakes suck, and they don't produce any noticeable power gain if any at all, in fact they are worse than the stock intake because all it's doing is heat soaking and drawing in hot air from under the hood...When i suggested the MAF housing, i assumed it was for a custom aluminum cold air intake...as a short ram intake, like i said,m it's worse than the stock intake...

 

Well I still am adding on to it and might do a custom aluminum intake I'm not sure about cold air but I'd defiantly get it farther away from the motor and a cold air source like the snorkel. But I'm just trying to get this to work for now without throwing a code.

 

Stop at the local high school that has an auto shop and ask them to check the codes. The one I use has a $3500 scanner and anyone can get their codes checked and cleared for free, takes like 1 minute.

ha ha just don't let them put air in your tires. They did my Subie and their stupid Crappy Tire gauge that looks like a little tire was reading 35 psi when the pressure was actually 70 psi!!! I discovered this later at home. Lucky no one was killed. I think they're still using that gauge.

 

Went to pepboys and they checked it for free it was a to lean code. How do I go about fixing this?

 

if it just started happening as soon as the intake was put it, it's definately the intake. It's either leaking or the MAF housing diameter is in fact too large. This can be corrected through tuning, but if it's just leaking then the only way to be sure, is make damn sure no air is getting in after the MAF...unless the MAF was damaged somehow...they are VERY fragile

 

^^^THIS^^^

i was thinking of doing a DIY SRI as well but then i asked Garrett first and he told me the exact same thing. he has done his research so i say listen to him lol.

but then again if you want to keep the SRI then you gotta make sure it's not damaging your car. my friend has an Acura RSX with an SRI and he doesn't notice any kind of difference. i think he went back to stock after a few months and sold his SRI on Kijiji.

if you really want something worth it, i say check out the DIY CAI on the How-To section of EvoM. i think it's the one where you gotta get a mini battery kit and you put the CAI where your fog light is supposed to be. it sounds like a pretty cool project. if only i knew what i was doing and if i had some space, i would try it out

btw can you be more specific in regards to the code that you pulled? is it only throwing ONE code?

 

Only one code, he didn't give me the number I should've asked he just said its one code and it's a fuel to lean code. I already went back to the stock air box last night I'm giving up hope in it there was no power gains anyways so no need to risk killing your motor for a little sound.

Now it's making think twice about other motor upgrades I was considering like under drive pulley.

 

good man

in my opinion (i think Garrett feels the same way too) RalliartN's "big intake mod" would be an amazing project if you're willing to spend some time on it. it's cheap and VERY effective according to his research and conclusions. this DIY guide is also VERY detailed so i know for a fact that you won't miss a thing. when spring/summer comes around, i'm going to Trenton and see if Garrett and Nick can help me out with this mod. we are all here to support you if you have any concerns whatsoever regarding anything so keep us posted!

here is the link to the mod i've been blabbering about:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...take-pipe.html

enjoy

MITSU4LIFE

 

could you get a caliper diameter measurement of the Evo X MAF housing vs. the stock MAF housing? that will tell if it it's more likely a leak/sealing isue, or MAF scaling issue because of a larger diamter MAF housing.

This is a solid MOD...it gives you maximum cold air intake, but is unable to injest water because it's drawing air from 2 separate locations, so it's safe and effective. That and a good tune will give you a nice bump in performance. My best bone stock 1/4 mile pass was 16.2 seconds. with short ram intake and axle back exhaust was 15.8, with LSD and a tune i got 15.3 @ 91mph. now i know it doesn't seem like a lot, but say a tune gets you 10hp, that won't translate to much in the 1/4 mile...but even going to a turbo setup my best time was 14.6 @ 98mph, so only .7 seconds and 7mph faster with an extra 60hp, and my 60 ft. times are the same, before they were slower cause the car had less power, now they are the same cause i get ridiculous wheel spin. but .5 seconds in the 1/4 mile at 100mph could be 1-2 car lengths...