Hard to shift in to second gear?
Dec 4, 2011, 02:15 PM
#1
Hard to shift in to second gear?
Hey everyone! This is my first post on here and sadly it isn't a happy one 
Well, anyway, I have an 04 RA and when I pull of the line hard in first gear I literally cant put it into second gear like there's something blocking me. And the only way I get it in is if I let my RPM's drop which defeats the whole purpose of me doing a WOT. When I'm at a stand still it shifts in to all the gears perfectly, while the car is running and not running. Soooo any inputs? Thanks a lot dudes! And this is a great site!
Well, anyway, I have an 04 RA and when I pull of the line hard in first gear I literally cant put it into second gear like there's something blocking me. And the only way I get it in is if I let my RPM's drop which defeats the whole purpose of me doing a WOT. When I'm at a stand still it shifts in to all the gears perfectly, while the car is running and not running. Soooo any inputs? Thanks a lot dudes! And this is a great site!
Dec 4, 2011, 03:51 PM
#4
all other gears shift ok at high RPM and WOT?
if so i doubt it's the clutch...what about 4th? i know it legally difficult to check shifting into fourth at redline, but it uses the same cable in the same direction...my guess would be worn synchros, like every other thread like this one, the first step would be to flush the gear oil, and refill with a lightweight full synthetic...pennzoil synchromesh is a good one...you'll want to check your cables, and cable ends firstly since they are on the outside.
to gorugo13 i'll double check for these cars, but usually there is like a detent type mechanism, that holds the shift fork/or synchro sleeve in place, untill you forcefully remove it, they wear out as well...i might be a part of the shift fork as well...i'll have to look deep into this, there are many parts to the synchro, mainly the hub and sleeve may cause this...but something has to keep the shift fork in place, but i don't remember if it's in the control housing, on the fork itself or on on the shifter rail.
if so i doubt it's the clutch...what about 4th? i know it legally difficult to check shifting into fourth at redline, but it uses the same cable in the same direction...my guess would be worn synchros, like every other thread like this one, the first step would be to flush the gear oil, and refill with a lightweight full synthetic...pennzoil synchromesh is a good one...you'll want to check your cables, and cable ends firstly since they are on the outside.
to gorugo13 i'll double check for these cars, but usually there is like a detent type mechanism, that holds the shift fork/or synchro sleeve in place, untill you forcefully remove it, they wear out as well...i might be a part of the shift fork as well...i'll have to look deep into this, there are many parts to the synchro, mainly the hub and sleeve may cause this...but something has to keep the shift fork in place, but i don't remember if it's in the control housing, on the fork itself or on on the shifter rail.
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Dec 4, 2011 at 04:17 PM.
Dec 4, 2011, 05:48 PM
#5
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To OP...have you missed the gear change making the second gear grind? Did you buy the car used?
My 1st to 2nd gear change does that at WOT sometimes. 1st kinda pops out and 2nd gear feels notchy. This is something felt even from zero miles. My transmission is not damaged and its had excellent maintenance...mitsus 1st to 2nd suck 
Dec 4, 2011, 05:54 PM
#6
Has the car done this before? I would check the clutch as stated before or make sure the shifter base is lined up correctly. If its not your tranny wont shift properly and grinding will start to happen. Have you done anything in the tranny area that has made the problem occur?
Dec 4, 2011, 09:47 PM
#7
Cursedsm: I haven't done any work to the car that in depth just simple things like SRI etc. And it started doing it a month after I bought it
Mivec: I did buy it used :/ also explain your first question again? Sorry lol
Cranswick: It is legally difficult but I've done it and it shifts perfectly
Mivec: I did buy it used :/ also explain your first question again? Sorry lol
Cranswick: It is legally difficult but I've done it and it shifts perfectly
Last edited by MarkChamorro; Dec 4, 2011 at 09:52 PM.
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Dec 11, 2011, 04:34 PM
#10
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to anyone reading this, my TOB squeaked and low and behold its fu*ked, also im almost certain that my 2nd gear synchro is screwed as well it grinded it once and it slowly got worse and worse now its like everyone says feels like hitting a wall unless im at rev matching for upshift or down, ill let you all know for sure when i crank open the tranny in a few weeks time
Dec 11, 2011, 07:10 PM
#11
rob, you have access to a bearing puller and press for the tranny rebuild? follow the manual closely when doing this. also, have a look at the ring, sleeve and hub for the synchronizer. tolerance specs should be in the book as well...and don't forget the differential shim, when you're putting it back together.
Dec 11, 2011, 08:12 PM
#12
I'm going with a sychro. As said above the clutch would not make it bad in only one gear and for whatever reason, our synchros suck. I had to replace my 2nd and 3rd gear synchros about 5000 kms ago. I was getting a grinding going from 2nd to 3rd and it was powertrain warranty which meant no cost. If you got warranty, goto the dealer and see what they say; the only thing is, depending on the issue, it may not be covered, also you may have to pay for a diagnostic too.
For me it started the same way as yours is now, not getting in to gear. I got so pissed at it that I jammed it into third and wrecked my sync. After that, even on a double clutch in low rpm, it would grind.
For me it started the same way as yours is now, not getting in to gear. I got so pissed at it that I jammed it into third and wrecked my sync. After that, even on a double clutch in low rpm, it would grind.
Dec 11, 2011, 08:43 PM
#13
I was told by three different dealers that synchros were "wear" items much like brake pads, and that they were not covered by the warranty, if they are worn, they have to be found defective, and to determine this, they must tear the transmission down, and god knows how long they will say it took, they will charge you for their time, then if they find it's not "defective" and it is merely "worn" that it will not be covered, and they now have to replace, reassemble, and reinstall, or simply hand you back the pieces of your transmission, if you are unwilling to pay them to put it back together...that and they quoted me over $2,000 if i were to have to pay for the work...i repaired the problem for about $200. I just thought i could save myself the hassle since i still had warranty. I was wrong.
So basically at all 3 dealerships, gave me the same run around story, "well, we have to open it up to see, and if it's synchros, it's not covered"...so i talked the head manager of said dealerships and told them to shove it up their ***...what the **** is a warranty for, and why do they care, it's not their money, it doesn't come out of their pocket...unless their christmas bonuses are accumulated from extra money they made bending loyal customers over...
My warranty is up now, but i don't care, cause those *******s will never touch my car...
So basically at all 3 dealerships, gave me the same run around story, "well, we have to open it up to see, and if it's synchros, it's not covered"...so i talked the head manager of said dealerships and told them to shove it up their ***...what the **** is a warranty for, and why do they care, it's not their money, it doesn't come out of their pocket...unless their christmas bonuses are accumulated from extra money they made bending loyal customers over...
My warranty is up now, but i don't care, cause those *******s will never touch my car...
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Dec 11, 2011 at 08:48 PM.
Dec 12, 2011, 05:03 AM
#14
Dude, that is rotten. I got a ACT HDSS Clutch [same as you iirc], which is supposed to VOID my powertrain warranty; they looked over that, did the syncs and all time I was driving around in a 2011 Outlander V6. I was due for my trans fluid change as well so I got that for free with the warranty work. It is retarded how some dealers can F over loyal customers and the others will do anything.
I should note that they did tell me that there is the possibility of having to pay for it if they found it to be something else, which they never so.
I should note that they did tell me that there is the possibility of having to pay for it if they found it to be something else, which they never so.
Dec 12, 2011, 08:56 AM
#15
i couldn't afford the possibilty of having to transport the car and disassembled transmission back to my house, after paying for them to remove and disassemble it...As it's no problem to do it myself, but i was only home on weekends and travelling 300km for work through the week because of the military, so i was hoping for a simple solution...cause i could only work at it on weekends...2 weeks later my timing belt went, so i did it all in one shot.