TB Swap
 

Hey guys,

Quick question. I'm going to upgrade my TB. I know we can use the TB from the GT eclipse. Will the TB from the Endeavor with the 3.8l also be the same TB? Or from the Gallant that has the same 3.8l engine?

So after I find out if we can use that, it would be nice since the ones from the endeavor and galant are cheaper than the eclipse lol. But would I need to buy a gasket for the 3.8l TB or for my stock size? I'm guessing for the 3.8l.

The Endeavor and Galant TBs will fit but they are smaller than the GT by 2mm. The Galant Ralliart is the same as the Eclipse GT TB...65mm

any of those tb's fit the 04 ra?

i see his id says its a 06 and i dont know if theres a diff...

Awesome, thanks Ralliartize It :)

@nekkidlad, yes these will also fit your 04. There were some changes for the 06 but I think just slight cosmetic and ecu adjustments.

Yeah the tb swap will work on any 04-06 ralliart...

i guess theres some thing i should ask tho..i frogot tot last post...haha

what years and cars tbs?
and just any v6, or specific ones?

if any1 has like some kinda list or sumn they can put up or sumn...
or make one....for other owners too..

i thought about getting the larger tb b4 but the only place i found was almost like $400...plus u had to send in a core...

Bump..?

any TB from the 6g75 motor will work

2003–present Mitsubishi Pajero (aka Montero/Shogun)
2004–present Mitsubishi Endeavor
2004–2009 Mitsubishi Galant
2006–present Mitsubishi Eclipse
2005–2008 Mitsubishi 380


for any1 else that may be ineterested i looked up what vehocles and years have the 6g75 tb for a possible swap...dont know if they;re all the same size but they're there..

Everything but the Eclipse Gt is the same size. The GT is 65 mm and the remaining are 63mm. The Intake Manifold throttle body bore is 62mm. so Gettign one from the Endeavor would just be fine. If you're confident you can always put a dremel to the opening to make it 1mm larger.

do u have to switch out the electricals of it n such or do they all have the same actuators n sensors such too?

(in case u havet realized yet i like to know as much as i can about it b4 i take it on..lol)

(plus it helps any1 else who may read this..)

I believe all you need to disconnect that is electronical is the Throttle position sensor. Just disconnect the cable, then swap the TB and plug the cable into the new TPS.

Yeah it's 4 bolts and one connection.... Takes about 20 minutes to swap.

What gains/advantages will you see from this mod?

is it a mod worth doing????

You will prob gain a little power and that seats of the pants rush. Your car will have a deeper growl. But in order to gain max power form it your car would need a solid tune. You'd have to compensate for all that additional air outside normal ECU adjustment. With a tune you may gain 5-7 whp. I'd by any of them except the one from the Eclipse GT. Too much money and limited avaiability.

It's worth it just stay on eBay even a junk yard, mine was 100 bucks shipped.

i understand the concept behind a larger tb, BUT the way i see it is that even though you may have a larger tb, your maf tube is still only 2.5''... therfore it's not really letting in any more air than the 2.5'' tube can accomodate... am i wrong in the way i'm thinking?? your tb can only suck in the amount of air your maf tube (thats placed before it) can flow....right??

just a thought...please correct me if im wrong...

It's more about flow/volume like the same reason to get a ported intake manifold. But regardless of where or why there is more power, it does work I have it and love it, not to mention around a dozen eclipse owners. And if they notice the hp it has to be real as their cars are 500 pounds more than ours....

How does your car run with it? is your ecu flashed lancerralliart? I heard our car goes into limp mode with it

The car runs great not a problem in the world, I also have the tb coolant bypass , so that helps as well.

So I'd say the 65mm tb and the RRM intake manifold would be a good combo to match the short ram intake? Thus removing any restrictions with the air coming in.

Eric

I think RRM only port matches the IM ports. The inlet port for the TB on the IM will still be 3mm small. Just buy the on Endeavor TB which is 63mm and you'll be fine. Save yourself some bucks as well.

Ok so I found this one for sale its from the Endeavor...but it looks different than ours/GT's So how would this bolt up?

http://www.pamsauto.com/flashdata/pi...1024&ID=626174

Agreed as that's the combo I have :)

As for the rrm p&p intake manifold, it's ported about 3-4 inches through the runners.

And darewood that will bolt up, they aren't showing you the whole thing in that pic. There are 2 more holes up top. I'll post up a pic.... ;)

Here's a pic of mine from a 2008 gt eclipse, I painted it red to match my rrm intake manifold ;)
http://i872.photobucket.com/albums/a...t/f7a6c47e.jpg

and here's a pic of the old stocker from my 2005 ralliart
http://i872.photobucket.com/albums/a...t/81c6790f.jpg

omg thank you! I'm going to get this now :D Well I'm going to try and make an offer first haha. And I will be painting mine as well ;) I have my intake and engine painted red. Also my interior dash is painted red. Red on grey=sex

Expect to get them to drop it about 5 bucks on the make offer haha. I bought a stock one the other day and made offer from same seller they would only drop 5.

Yea...I was able to get a seller with a GT to drop their price 20$ But the endeavor one only 5. I'll go with the endeavor.

But my last question...What kind of gasket is needed? can I use the one for the stock or do I need one for the endeavor?

Stock 4g69 fits fine...

sorry just wanted to make sure. I wasn't sure the gaskets would be different or not.

so bumping an old thread. for those that have had this for a while, has it caused anyone to throw lean codes? how about during the winter/colder temperatures? any issues so far?

+1
i'm thinking of moving to a 63mm to finish off my rebuild...

mine's coming in this week so before i put it on and sell my old tb i just want to be sure i wont have to switch back. i got a 4b11 guy buying it of me {thumbup}

Ive had my eclipse gt tb on all winter. No codes.

No info on the lean code. CEL has been on due to my header/downpipe.

I have the 63mm and have had no issues. The only bump I had was when I first put it on, it kept turning off after a few seconds. It sounded fine, it would just turn off. If I would rev it, it would stay on..so I decided to take a drive in it and kept revving it while in neutral to keep it on at the stop signs and it learned to breathe just fine.

I'm guessing it wasn't a straight swap for me like others have said because of my current mods? I don't really know, in either case, it's been an awesome upgrade. RPMs at idle are fine. On cold starts it revs a bit higher but when it's warmed up it's fine.

I haven't had any problems with my gt tb, although it hasn't gotten to cold here either. I think it got down to the mid 30s for a week :lol: it's like 90 and beach worthy at the moment.

anyone know if its cause of mods that would cause this? tw3nty0n3 did you unplug your batt and reset your ecu before this happened?

I've got the Endeavor 63mm, put it on back in january when it was in storage. I drove it like once a week during the winter and it ran fine. Even when relearning never sounded like it was going to stall. When it sits for like 2 days and then i start it, it idles a tiny bit high, but only for a minute or two and haven't thrown any codes. Kind of want to try the GT 65mm and see if there's any difference, but so far its one of the best mods i've done, sounds great, and feels great.

Yes, unplugged battery the entire time I was doing the install. I made sure everything was hooked up properly after the 3rd time it shut off. What made me decide to take it for a drive was the fact that it stayed on if I revved it even a little.

I haven't thrown a code for being lean yet, just the code for having no cat. But it ran fine all winter long!

Did you get the 65mm since you have the PnP IM?

only 63mm. the IM is only ported on the engine side not on the TB side so its still stock size

maybe your car stalling out has something to do with the fact that you DID unhook the battery and let the memory erase..and it had to relearn with all the base values, wich obviously arent setup for the larger TB....untill it learns "hey...im getting more air...lemme add fuel...and stay that way since that's the way ill run"..?

did every1 else unhook their battery during their install or no?...jw...
(personally i only have a SRI as mod - wich came w/ the car when i bought it -so its just a thought..)

I unhooked my battery and took out the older one and installed the new one. Hooked the battery back up, and let it idle for 15 minutes-ish and never had it stall once.

That definitely could be it. I remember reading over on club4g that unplugging the battery to reset it was a must which is why I made sure I did it that way.

My car does have a hard time relearning when resetting the ecu before I even had the tb. It would stall when making a turn and coming to a stop at the same time if it was still in learning mode. Takes about 250 miles to get that to go away.

I haven't had a single issue with mine. I do tend to get a whistle noise at a certain pressure of the gas pedal, but it doesn't bug me. No codes and has run fine for 3+ months. Here is a current list of my engine mods...

RRM SRI
RRM Timming Control Box
RRM UD Pulley
RRM Piggyback
PPI Ported Intake Manifold
63mm TB w/GT Fabrications Thermal Gasket
Grounding Kit & Voltage Stabilizer

When the SIR intake, TB, intake manifold, UD pulley, timming control box, and piggyback...I always disconnected the battery for the re-learn.

Thanks,
Eric

maybe its the combination your of mods vs his mods...?
according to the mods list on both your sigs hes got mostly exhaust mods...and the UDP...where u have the piggyback AND the timing box, along with the P&P IM...i bet if you didnt have the piggy back ud probably have trouble idling for a while as it learns what to do with all that extra air..

relearning shouldnt take more than about 10-15 miles or so....or ussually its good to go if u let it idle for about 15 mins...(generally speaking across all car brands that is...at least in my experience)
do u have the piggyback..?...
if u dont maybe the piggyback tune has a bit more ability to compensate..?..it IS basically a tune in a box...

piggyback only works at WOT so it shouldn't matter at idle to my knowledge. i dont think the timing box would cause it to stall. it would just cause his car to knock like crazy i would think if anything

No piggy/timing box here. Some smog shops told me they won't do a smog check unless I drove at least 150 miles after resetting the ECU. That's why I figured it takes that long to re-learn. That and the fact that I usually notice the stalling goes away after 100+ miles.

I have a Delta cam going in soon, after that I will be going for the hackish reflash. Hopefully that solves the stalling issue, sucks to be dreading resetting my ECU lol.

But back on topic, it works!! No issues here and I kinda dig the hissing noise it makes.

I don't have a piggy. I have a SRI, Catback, Timing Box, and then I put my throttle body on and had no issues. I haven't put my UDP on yet, I'm waiting to do my timing belt at the same time. So with that said, we almost have the same setup, minus the header and UDP as of now. So im not sure why his was doing that.

+1, When i raced an 04 eclipse gt, afterwards, he goes not fair your turbo! and I said you wanna check under the hood, if I am you can have my car lol, he was very surprised when there was no turbo.

Yeah I've always like the whistling sound. I've heard it on a car without the ported intake manifold, mine is a bit more pronounced with it. Once I install the ported and polished head it should bump
it up a bit more.

so i just got my TB today. thing is the dirtiest damn thing i have ever seen. any tips on what/how to clean it? what SHOULDN'T i hit w/ water on this thing and what is okay to blast with cleaner?

I just used a toothbrush with warm water and just scrubbed for awhile. I didn't put the whole thing under water tho, I just filled a glass with hot water and dipped the brush in, then scrubbed.

pretty much the same thing I did except I had to use a brass brush for some parts.

Seafoam Deep Creep, a nice set of cleaning brushes and some time. Let the Deep Creep sit on the carbon areas. I also taped up the plug just to be safe.

I've had the 63mm TB on my ride for about 2 months now. No problems at all. I also put a CAI on at the same time. The response on the new TB is definitely is quicker. My whole set up is pretty nice to drive and I really like driving my car. Nothing over the top just a few tweaks and it makes all the difference in the world.

Drive Train mods;
RRM UDP
RRM Timing Box
AEM CAI
Blox solid Roll Stop
63mm TB

Suspension;
Eibach Pro Kit springs
Drag wheels 17"

I bought this TB cleaner from the company that makes the maf cleaner. Ill just spray it on tmrw and see what happens after I scrub it. I think I got a old toothbrush laying around somewhere

Couldn't find the Deep Creep at autozone

so i sprayed it down with the cleaner which did a pretty alright job. after the install and learning period either the car definitely is faster or its just my butt dyno but i feel like it really did something

I bought an Endeavor TB also. It should arrive this week :updown:

I dont know if this is the case for everyone, however when I installed my TB the coolant hoses weren't long enough to reach to the new connection points. I had to go out and buy a little extra hosing, connectors, and clamps.

too bad chicago gets too cold for me to run the coolant bypass without fearing it freezing over during the winter

Still waiting for my polished/bored/coated tb to come in the mail..:confused: I'd like to see or feel this difference...

I wouldn't dare run with the coolant bypass here either.

what rpm do you guys usually hear the whistle? mine still sounds like stock til i go into WOT which is when i hear the whistle in the upper RPM range

My hoses all reached, they were basically in the same spot as the old ones? And I hear the whistling down low in like 1st through 3rd and pretty much all gears high in the rpm's

yeah my hoses didn't reach. well they BARELY reached with stretching a little bit. I had to loosen up the hoses on the engine to move them up a bit but even that it wasnt on there too much. to be safe i just bought more hose

my whistling i can barely hear it but then again my car is loud as hell so i cant hear anything in my engine bay when driving

Could be because your automatic?

that could be a possibility.

i didnt think that would've mattered though since its more about vacuum pressure than anything else? being AT kind of has its downsides to modding/power

my car makes a hissing, suction sound at high RPM that's from the intake i'm pretty sure...i think i might pick up a 63mm throttle body...

i cant think how having the coolant bypass the TB is going to have some major bad effect in the car...its for emissions(as far as im aware..)...the coolant heats up the TB and therefore the air..(even if just slightly...)
colder air = more power...

think about when u start up the car on a cold(freezing cold) day...its no different than that...just permanently..

just my thought..correct me if im wrong..

the coolant also is an antifreeze that keeps your TB from freezing over in ridiculously cold temperatures

in regards to the whistling / hissing sound.. i can make it do it at any gear at any rpms. it's dependent on how much throttle i'm giving it. usually it's at around 40-50% throttle, anything more or lower than that it goes away. i do hear it between shifts though since i let off the throttle and get back on it while shifting.

i tried recording it once, too much wind noise.

ahh.. yeah i feather the throttle to maybe not even 1/4 way in an attempt to keep my mpgs high lol. i think i'd probably hear it around 4k rpm?

that sounds about right, around 4k... i actually use that sound to shift when i'm racing...

when people say down low in the rpm scale im assuming they're talking about 2-3k is when they hear it.

i definately don't hear it down that low...

No major effects probably but I take it you've never driven your RA for months at a time when it's averaging -40C :crap: I'd imagine the throttle body would freeze itself shut fairly quick.. The theory behind the bypass sounds alright (more so if the intake manifold has a thermal gasket paired with the bypass, I still see heat soak/transfer to the TB as a likely issue), these bypasses aren't very popular here cause it's not worth the little effort it can take to forget it later on.

Could be a good idea for those whose car will never see below 32F, but I'd rather much sooner pack the jumper cables and tow rope when winterizing :mitsu:

okay now i really want to get this hissing on video. i can do it in ALL rpm ranges, it's not a matter of what rpm you're at, it's a matter of how far down your pushing your throttle/how open the TB is.

if anyone has any ideas on how to record this on video but also eliminate wind noise, let me know.

the anti freeze part of the coolant is for the water in the system so it wont freeze and crack your block...its much better (cooling-wise) to run straight water in your car than to run water and coolant..(but then u dont get lubrication from the coolant thru the system for the water pump etc..)

i guess after a while without heating theu the TB it'd eventually start to bind or something from all the air going thru cooling it down more...im sure it wouldnt freeze seized tho..it all gets about as cold at about the same time..

and as for the -40C part(i looked it upon google it's -40F also..) as far as im aware ive have not done it for a extended period of time...but again...personally i dont see a HUGE problem there..if it does freeze just pull over somewhere, shut the car off and let it "heat soak" up for a while..then keep driving..(unless of course you're racing or something...then ur in trouble..)

I'm a little confused by your statement. The wider open the throttle the higher the RPM climbs unless its between gear switches but even then the car doesnt stay down low long enough to even get the whistle


that's assuming you already have the car started. if its below freezing and there's no heat off the engine and there's no antifreeze in the system than you're pretty much screwed as im pretty sure that your TB will be frozen and you wont even be able to keep the car running long enough for it to heat up

true that is assuming that its already running...as for on startup on freezing cold..its going to be the same temp wether you have the tb or no in it...it only protects the water from freezing...it doesnt matter wether you have coolant in the TB or not...after it gets cold..its the same wether you have coolant in there on not...it just gets colder once you start then engine with the air soaking up any heat it may get from being attached to the intake...wich if uve ever touched your intake...it gets pretty damn hot no matter how much air is flying thru it..(try doing a few runs and then run out pop your hood and grab on to your intake somewhere...also prepare to scream..then try the same w/ your TB)...correct me if im wrong but i dont remember there being coolant in the intake...and basically ur just making the intake a bit bigger/longer/heavier(or w/e u wanna call it) when u attach to TB on it..and i have yet to hear any1 worry about their intake freezing SPECIALLY when ported/polished/gasket matched for that extra flow...(granted theres no moving parts tho...)

personaly i'd still say its not a problem...and if u have that thermal gasket..(or a wood gasket/spacer if ur "old skool")...then maybe there would be some issue..but id still say in the ok range

hmm, i see what you mean, good point.

i would really need to get this on video then. i hear it between all my shifts and can make it whistle at any speed simply by hitting the right amount of throttle.

I usually have my windows down about halfway, so I may hear it more. It is most prominent from 2.5k rpms to 3k rpms with about half throttle. My buddy took a video of me do a quick pull next to him in his srt-4, and what I thought was his BOV after watching the vid, he said that was my car cus he was neutral cruising. I'm trying to figure out how to get the vid from him on facebook but its not working

To each their own I guess, some people will never realize that a frozen throttle body is a reality, personally would never do it while living here in regards to other safety purposes.. on the other hand we do see an upswing in the summer to fairly sweltering heat but that's only around for maybe 2 months, with 5 months of (that bastard) old man winter it would be a PITA either way to keep swapping hoses etc haha.

Not that I'm trying to discourage this the bypass or anything, those in warm(er) climates may see the benefit. Those coolant lines serve a purpose where I live so the whole idea of tying them off confuses me. When I first read this I thought "Why in the hell would you want to do that..." :lol:

^eh I tried to explain it... oh well lol

I would agree I can get it to whistle at any speed simply by hitting the right amount of throttle, I would say less than 50 percent. My wife was asking about it thinking something was wrong with my car. I told her it was just the intake sucking air, don't worry about it. I was thinking it was just the 63mm TB I picked up, but I'm starting to think there are other reasons for the whistle?

Eric

hmm... maybe you can hear the whistle cause you have a stock exhaust system at least one that isn't listed in your mods. anyway i used to be able to hear my intake before i got the headers and back modded but no longer until i got the TB. maybe thats why i cant hear it without giving it a lil more than 50%

Yeah when I got my fist mod back in spring of 2005 (:lol:) it was the injen cai , I remember hearing it chirp all of the time. Once I did the downpipe , resonator, and muffler I could barely hear it. Then I added the ported intake manifold and 65mm tb , the chirping turned into a distinct whistling. Once the cam and competion p&p head go on I'm 99% sure it will becoome even more pronouced. Just saying .....:mitsu:

I can try and take a vid so you guys can hear what it sounds like on a car with full bolt on mods and a performance cam.

That would be awesome. Mayber lanzerralliart can put one up to? I like that mod list {thumbup}

I failed with my video, too much wind noise. Good luck capturing this.

yeah im interested in the video too. i have a full bolt on setup but still not hearing it as profoundly as you guys say it is

I've tried before but with my iPhone and the window down you only hear the wind moving :(

human ears > iPhone

I just did the TB swap today and the change is very...VERY noticeable. The whistling noise can be heard through all gears when pressing the throttle(Depending on the throttle you give).

The car revs differently:
-revs slightly faster
-the CAI has a much more meaner sound
-"whistling" starts near the 2600rpm depending on the gear.


I also installed the UDP again after trying out the new TB. I had forgot how it felt to go WOT on the first two gears with the UDP. Right now im very pleased with the 63mm TB.

I will be installing a cam gear soon and will probably do some dyno runs. Maybe I can switch TB's while doing some runs and check for the slight change and then set the cam gear.

how does the UDP feel with the TB? I still have to put my UDP on lol.

wish i knew what it felt like to change gears and notice any differences. downfall of autos...

Well the UDP helps rev quicker and the throttle response is much better. I had changed the clutch to an ACT 50/50 and now after the UDP and TB the car goes nuts on 1-2 gear change the dash board just feels like its going to break because of the wheel hop :D

Then now it's time to invest in some devcon flexane and a weekend of down time to make some solid motor mounts:mitsu:

or buy roblaza's blox mount {thumbup}

Yeah the front will help but the rear is always the one that fails.

I have a BLOX motor mount coming this way as we speak :D