What's **** ?

Is that brail. Are you blind too? Is that one of your three languages? I’m sorry, I’d never pick on a blind guy.

That reminds me, Ray was a good movie.

 

^lol....i guess the word censors are getting smart

 

Guys seriously this is getting out of hand. Just chill out use the forum for what it's for information. I don't care who started it just let it go.

 

^ nah we should be cool....

 

um probably longer than you, but I don't fill up my post count with bs like you.


So true man, I sure as hell wouldn't be able to tell anything about you by reading any of your posts huh? Tool.


Damn your right, I should lighten up, you've got to be the funniest chick on here. hah heh....

^ WTF Only advise is to stop buying that crack from the dude on the corner, pay a little more money and get some better quality Sh**


Sorry couldn't resist, but aside from all the ******.... Manny your car looks bad ***! and Props to RRM for making a sweet kit!

 

You actually took the time to make that long retort? This isn't even worth the wear and tear on my keyboard.

 

Great man!!! that looks like kicking hundred asses!!!

but why the side piping is visible?? you have to cut the plastic on the foglamps???
is there a way to avoid this??

 

no not really

 

just curious, but whats with the header design? the welds look great, but the design looks kinda funky to me. its a tubular header (SS, i assume?) but its designed almost like a log-type cast header in the way the runs are connected (like essential speed's). Why is the wastegate feeding only off the rightmost runner and why did you make the left runner so much longer? you would have saved alot of engine space, cash and risk if this were just a cast header (not that i would perfer that, but just an observation).

but since you went /w a tubular deesign, where/how is the turbine bracketed, or is it not bracketd at all? with all the surface area producing head and the welds, i hope it is bracketed so there isnt a risk of cracking or anything. also, how thick is the header piping?

Will all the headers be of this design, or are they still being toyed with? In most circumstances, I would perfer a more equal-length header /w a centered WG feed. The kti works great from what manny and those who got to see it first hand have said, but its still young. you guys have a great track records, so i dont doubt ur judgement, buti just wana try to learn for myself incase im missing anything. im not trying to 'point anything out', as im such a newb its not even funny, so dont take me the wrong way =)

btw, its a G t28, right? does that have ceramic or steel fins? liquid or ball bearings? sorry, for all the lame q's, but im sure someone else will ask l8r if i dont =)

 

^its a 16g turbo...

 

The runner design was chosen to better compliment the MIVEC... this motor doesn't work exactly like the non-mivec motors. There are some things that caused issues with the header design you were talking about. This design promotes quick spool with mivec.

I won't get to in depth but i'll say that the longer runner on that cylinder is for a reason. Also the wastegate being located where it is, is for a reason. The wastegate actually can make this motor bog if placed into a different spot. We don't know if this has to do with the MIVEC but we think it does since the header design caused issues as well.

Ever take a look at your stock header... wonder why mitsu twisted it up the way they did instead of running it strait and into a 4-1 collector. The MIVEC in this motor has changed the game a lot. I can't go indepth as RRM has put a lot into their R&D and i'm sure they are probably not happy i've said what i've said thus far.

OH Well... it would come out later anyway right?? Seriously the MIVEC changes a lot of things. This is the final draft and the turbo used is a BIG 16G straight out of the box.

 

Also RRM is backing the header so if there is ever an issue with it cracking or breaking call them up and they'll replace it. This only works for normal wear and tear... if you modify something or break something during install then of course you'll have to pay.

 

manny, are you running 6psi or 8psi?

 

i think it's 6-7psi

 

thx boe! wish you could tell me more, but i can only get so much of a free ride =) im still just getting a handle on this stuff and most of the info i can find pertains to vtec designs, which while similar are a totally different beast. if u get the green light on spilling the bean with any more of the design details, please do, but im sure u guys wana keep it a secret until others start producing diff kits so we can see the ups and downs first hand.

i dunno if there is anything behind this or not, but whats the difference in the turbo and NA downpipe? The kit comes /w the DP, right? i could have sworn it was listed in the original thread, but some here said it was no. If it is, is it just different so that the flange is lower to make more room for the turbo to sit between the pipe and header? still 2.25", right? will this be true for the stage2 and later revision? Looks like we may be getting to the point (as far as power goes) where a 2.5 might benifit. with the turbo providing enough backpressure iself, maybe even 3" wouldnt hurt once we get about 350hp at the crank. im just going of what ive seen on other cars, and thats key =) they are different! (or maybe i should say WE are different)