Just got back from running my first dyno. Now, before we get to the numbers, this was not an "ordinary" dyno. It is supposedly more accurate, and thus gives lower numbers, than other types of dynos. For more info on the dyno itself go to http://www.dyno-comp.com, which is where I got this done.

For this test I had stock wheels with Toyo tires, Injen CAI, Magnaflow muffler, running 91 octane. There was no temp on the dyno sheet, but it was about 75-80 degrees out with less than 15% humidity.

Max HP: 131.7 at 5500 RPM

Interesting... eh?

 

All dynos are different as they say. Are you going back after the piggyback is installed - I'd be curious to see the change.

 

what type of dyno is that? never saw it. they seem to be heavy on the defensive as to why their dyno sux, though =) If i were to make a judgement, I would guess that this shop spent way too much money on a suposedly 'better' dyno that gives readings that are much lower than the accepted industry standards, and tries to cover their *** by saying they are 'more accurate'. might be more concistant between runs, but i dont think thats accurate against industry standards. if it were they wouldnt have to justify why their numbers are lower than everyone else's. dyno isnt made to boost egos. its made to help tune, so it may be better at that (for concistancy).

 

why do you run 91 octane with a stock set up? i always thought that was more harmful than helpful unless you were set up for it

 

He's getting ready to install the RRM Piggyback , I presume.

 

running 91 would do nothing but lower gas mileage wihtout any tuning, it is real low tho....like oddly low....thats would mean thatyour no pushinh more than 155 to the crank with the 15% drivetrain loss....and mitsu cant publish that a car has so much HP tp the crank with out it being correct... i would say soemthings wrong with that dyno

 

Well, the 91 just takes more effort to burn, if I understand it correctly. Even so... 131? Anyway, I wasn't expecting much after reading some other threads... but 131? LOL.

And yeah, I'll be taking it back after the piggy is on.

They also ran a broadband. At 3500 the fuel ratio fell from 12:1 down to 10:1, then popped back up to 12:1 at 4250. MIVEC kicking in?

 

The owner estimated 25% drivetrain loss. Says it mimmicks real-world driving conditions.

Not that it means much, but they deal with mostly high-end cars: Porsche, Ferrari, etc.

 

25% did you tell then your not AWD?....real world drivning conditons?....isnt that why the they inputs temp and humidity?....i dunno sounds fishy

 

Ask them to reread the manual for the dyno and toy with it till they figure out how to use it.

 

He said they put a load on the engine that puts pressure on it, which other dynos don't do. After the piggy I might get it dynoed somwhere else... which will give innacurrate numbers for the increase in HP due to the piggy.... but might give a more standard dyno reading. I can't afford to get this thing dynoed at every shop in Phoenix and compare results though.

 

The best thing to do, then, is to get a GTech and see what real "real world" driving gives you in terms of numbers. My PDA dyno, with all of the temp/humid/elevation/tire size/Cd/frontal area info gives #s on a real road that are about 1% lower than a dynojet.... so I can't see why they'd need to justify this "highly superior" dyno Except as you say, they mainly deal with super-high-end cars. You know how those guys are- they're always looking for "the best" (especially something that will tell them why it's the best) and second, they're always looking for an excuse (that dyno I tested on says it gives lower numbers than any other dyno because it more accurately represents real world driving conditions. don't talk to me about your artifically inflated, inferior dyno numbers! )

As always, they're tools to tell you how much chage has taken place, not an absolute power number. Take it to 3 other dynos, you'll get 3 othe results. I guess you can shop around until you get the one you want

Oh, FWIW the mustang dyno also adds load, and seems to read about 4-5% lower than a "no load" dynojet

 

it's a dynodynamics dyno

 

Just find another local dyno... then install the piggy after 1 or 2 runs... should still be accurate then!

 

Could it have something to do with elevation or heat/humidity?

If I remember right, the other guy who had really low dyno numbers was also in Arizona.

EDIT: Sorry, he's from Colorado.