Mine have done that since the day I bought the car but only when I actually apply the brakes in reverse like rolling back out of my driveway. It doesn't do it EVERY time but....80% of the time.

I'm probably just too damn hard on my brakes...I'll have to consider either getting the rotors that RRM sells or saving some money and getting some rims and the big brake kit as I do plan on turboing eventually. It just sucks because that'll set me back from getting the mounts, DP and UDP I was getting ready to purchase.

Are those RRM power rotors (The OEM replacement ones) pretty good?

 

yes it is just plain old surface rust on yourt rotor from the mornings dew, nothing to worry about. i see it every day on every car on my lot.

 

The RRM rotors are probably the best stock-sized rotors out for our cars right now. However, they're probably overkill for most people, and are more ideal for people who do a lot of AutoX. If you pretty much stick to street driving, and want to upgrade to something better from stock, take a look at R1's rotors. They offer a nice middleground between stock and RRM's.

 

Don't think I have to worry too much about overkill.

Thanks very much for the advice. I'll be saving for the rotors now...being able to stop is more important than being able to go fast (unfortunately).

 

I had no idea, that is actually a plus. How does this system work and how is heat transfer from the drum to the disc handled? I am not trying to start an argument but I work in metal fabrication. If the two pieces heat when you are using the brakes and the parking brake pads touch one of the heated parts then you are still going to cause the metal to cool inconsistently. When metal cools at different rates it changes shape, this is how you create a bend in very thick steel. You cool one side faster than the other and it bends toward the side you are cooling. So, not to make this too long, even though it doesn't rest on the braking part of the disc it can still cause the disc to warp. I hope I didn't just type this for no reason if the disc and drum aren't connected thermally

 

I had to brake hard a couple weeks ago, doing around the limit (60km/h) at night on a fairly quiet Great Eastern Highway across from Burswood Casino (this will mean nothing to someone who hasn't been to Perth, West Aust.) and this complete and utter retard decides he is going to cross the road. He was really really lucky RA's can stop better than, say trucks, lotsa cars etc. because otherwise he would have been splattered and I'd be filling out all kinds of paperwork. I mean honestly, there was no traffic in front of me or behind me as far as the eye could see - and this dumb@$$ dressed in head-to-toe black (nearly invisible at midnight there) decides the time is right to cross a couple lanes and step in front of a car... a bright yellow car with the fogs on for the heck of it. The RA stopped really well, but the brakes didn't sound right. Highly likely as its the first serious sudden stop I've made in a car with ABS etc. No steering vibration, but the car itself felt kinda bumpy, tyre pressures in the front weren't as high as they should be, but not really low.
I was lucky. My theory was he lost big at that bloody casino and was feeling a might suicidal. Doubled back and tried to find him to see if he was okay but no sign of him.
If I was in my old Magna... well I hate to think

 

does anyone have a humming noise coming from your brakes when your rolling backward and braking? its usually only when its been sitting for awile, but i dont like it. it doesnt sound good.

 

yeah, brake dust or rust buildup. doesn't do it when they are warm. It's "normal" from what I understand and will probably go away if you upgrade to better than oem brakes.

 

That was the ABS system kicking in. It sounds bad, but it's perfectly normal.

 

Yeah I'd never known this either... othewise I would have been home 10 minutes earlier today cuz I cruised around to cool my rotors after hard braking... anybody know how the drum-in-disc system works?

 

The "drum" is machined into the hat of the rotor. Here's a really huge picture, since I'm too lazy to resize:

Image changed to attachment, was annoyingly big. -Otter

The difference is the fact that the parking brake shoes are not hot like the rear brake pads would be after a hard stop. Actually, the rear pads might not even be that hot, it's the fronts that do most of the braking.

Cruising around for a few minutes after hard braking isn't a bad idea, though. It gives your brakes time to cool so this wouldn't possibly be an issue.

 

I was hoping that was the case, cheers Myszkewicz!

 

Hmm that's a pretty good diagram... where'd you get all those diagrams on your server? I'm still reading about drum-in-disc set-ups, this is interesting stuff.

 

It's in the mitsu manuel, and from the looks of it they are seperated by the hub, which means that the parking brake has no effect on the disc itself. Thanks myszkewicz, that answers my questions.

And I agree, you should still cruise around to let your brakes cool after hard stopping. Moving air is the only way to cool them efficiently.

 

Thanks, Otter.