For 1300 you wont get 14.9's out of your car. You need to look into a higher stall converter and valve body for your transmisison for one. That will allow you to launch much better than you could otherwise. Without some kind of FI i see it being very hard to get into the 14's. Besides intake, exhaust, some ecu tuning and motor work there isnt much else you can do, and to do these things is going to take more than 1300. You have to look at lobor costs too, unless you plan on doing all this tranny and motor work yourself.

 

God, I am so sick of answering this. Read the post again. I am not expecting 14.9 out of $1300.

 

Ok, allow me to re-phrase. I dont think your going to get 14.9 n/a at all without stripping the car down and making it a 'race car" i think mid to high 15's is more of a reasonable goal.

 

ok we get the piont , your trying to reach atleast a 14.9 or lower and you have 1300 to get you started, you can go with the list of mods you already posted, they will help but not quite ther yet or you could get down and dirty and do what the guys said and start working on that coverter of yours , i think you would bennefit more from that in the long run and put you a lot closer to completing your goal.

 

This would defeat the purpose of what I want to do. I want to maintain the livability and stock appearance of my car, so no carbon fiber, no wings, no interior stripping. But the more I research this, the more it looks like you're absolutely correct.

Since I can't find quarter mile times for the automatic sedan, I researched them for the sportback. Motor Trend came up with a 1/4 mile of 16.56 on the sportback RA. Taking into consideration the commonly accepted principle of every 100lbs equals .1 seconds off the time, and the difference in weight between the sportback (3050) and an automatic RA (2882) is 168lbs, that would equal a stock time around 16.39, which is right in line with the only post I found on these forums quoting a 1/4 mile on the RA Auto.

What I need to find out is what kind of time gains I should expect from my SRI, and the additional parts. When I run the track, I'll probably revert my car back to stock for a couple of runs, then reinstall the SRI and see what kind of difference it makes, but if anybody has any quotable figures, that would help.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/announcement.php?f=93

Read the rules. You're partially right however. I didn't mean to proclaim it 'my topic', that's bad phrasing.

I know that a manual with equal HP is probably going to beat an automatic, everybody knows that. That's why I'm looking to mod up my HP, so I can get ahead of these guys.

What I don't know is where you and that other poster got the idea that automatic transmissions are fragile pieces of equipment designed to take absolutely no abuse, or where you or anybody else got the idea that I'm trying to build a race car. This is simply and universally wrong. Adding 50 or 60 HP to my car is not going to destroy my transmission unless I ride it like a lunatic every single time I drive it.

I think most people's concept of speed in these forums is severely skewed. A 14.9 second quarter mile is by no means fast. Anybody with an manual RA or Sentra Spec V, an intake and some driver skill can reach 15.1-15.2. Edmunds got a Civic SI to get 15.1, bone stock; a V6 mustang runs mid 15s, so does a new honda accord V6. Hell, a Toyota 4Runner V6 will run the quarter in just under 16. Now, if I were taking a 1993 honda Accord and trying to do the same thing, Getting into the 14s is a big deal for them, their cars stock spec gets them mid to high 17s. Getting into the 13s is fast. At 13s, you're keeping up with Mustang GTs, a late model GM F-Body with a good driver and a V8, SRT-4s, an EVO, an M3, and so on. One second on a quarter-mile track is a hell of a lot of distance.

I really don't want to change the appearance of my car, especially by adding stuff that might give people the impression that my car is faster. I might do an underbody light kit, or a set of those halo headlamps, but that's about it. I also said before specifically that if I wanted a stick, I would have bought one when I got the car, but to answer the question, I believe swapping an auto for a stick was reasearched in another thread to the tune of around $3000; 500-1000 for a used tranny from a scrapper, 1k-1500 for a rebuild, and another 1k to acquire and install the neccessary components to convert it over. At that kind of money, I can just eat my negative equity and pick up a 5 speed if I wanted it.

 

ok, now that we are back on topic and everyone understands the goal here....

There are a few free mods you can do if you aren't mechanically challenged, such as the port and polish for the manifold and throttle body which should go along with some nice breathing equipment. If you can afford it see what RRM is coming out with for the entire exhaust system, engine back. I just put some engine mounts in too and they help the car hook up better without stressing the drivetrain from engine movement, two big plusses for your car.

If everyone was just a little curteous this would be a whole lot nicer place to visit. Please keep your attitudes in the off topic forums or at home. Thanks.

 

and I personally don't think that if this is your daily driver you should be worried about 1/4 mile times, I would be more interested in how it handled with the power it has. Even minor suspension mods can mean the difference between getting home and creaming some little johnny red-ball chasing kid on the way home from work. just mo

 

If everyone could please stick to topic. Thanks.

Anyway, someone on this board who could help this guy out would be the guy that posted the black Sportback in the Lancer Registry that I always see on the bottom right of the evom home page. I think he is located in Canada. He's got a car with every possible mod added on including a killer hood that I'd also like to have. Since he's driving a Sportback he's got to have an auto so he should be a good source of info. (found him in registry - madhowler)

My own .02 for helping an auto would be pulley, maybe the axleback for looks, and a set of lighter wheels and tires. It's difficult to say how something like RRMs' new header would feel on an auto. TireRack is a board sponsor and they have a few wheels that are pretty light for the price.

You'll never hit the 14's with your car without something like nitrous and a lot of abuse. But, it's still one of the best choices that you could have made with an automatic tranny. My first Ralliart was auto and my current one is a stick. I love both of them.

-Later

 

This is what i would do. Buy the pulley, piggyback, and downpipe and see what you run with that and then decide if its worth spending more than money to go faster.

 

That's a good plan too. One thing about keeping your stock wheels is that people don't think you've done anything special to your car. It's nice to drive a sleeper.

 

Check out machiii.net. You can get a set of Rota Slipstreams that weigh 13.5 lbs each for about $500. 00. They don't look too wild so they won't draw much attention, also at 13.5 lbs each I believe you'd be reducing your unsprung weight by apprx. 10 lbs per wheel (handling will improve) and since weight is down your WHP should improve for same reason the lightweight pulley improves WHP (probably more so).
I'd probably also do the Road///Race piggyback, low restiction cat and muffler. K&N type low restriction air filter. I personally think SRI's can reduce bottom end power (effects launching) and underhood heatsoak which would lower power around town.
If you do go to the strip run the highest octane fuel you can get, run with an almost empty tank. Put your tire pressure to the max ( I don't suspect wheelspin will be a problem, a little might even help). Take everything out of your trunk you can.
Good luck

 

God i can't believe people are actually helping. Two pages ago and i would have thought everyone hated auto ralliarts. My friend i would reccomend the rrm piggy, pulley, and a good header. The piggy is a good way to tune the exisisitng mods and futrue mods you plan to do to get the most horsepower you possibly can. BTW myfakeevo when that crab dies in your *** and you're feeling better you can join the forum again.

 

1. No crab in his ***, he made a very good point.
2. He wasn't the one slinging insults and making douche bottle comments... surprised a mod didn't kill the thread right away on that one, that was in very poor taste.
3. I don't think anyone really hates auto RA's, but they are kinda like finding a cooler on a hot day, its covered in Corona stickers, BUT when you open it - the ice has melted and its full of diet pepsi.

 

No, he didn't make a very good point. He railed on my choice of an automatic. What kind of point is that? Explain to me how telling me that I made a mistake in choosing an automatic and telling me that I was stupid for trying to mod it is a good point? Or maybe you can explain to me why making the smart-*** sticker comment is going to help me decide whether I should mod? And if you go and take another look at the post you're refrencing, I took out the vulgar part of that post because I didn't want this thread locked.

Here's an idea, you're not helping either. You really aren't. You've said the same stuff fake evo said without the insults. Get lost.

To everybody who's contributing information, I greatly appriciate it.

-*edit*- To the guy that found the Rotas for $500 for a set. This actually helps quite a bit. I was looking at spending my money on either the mods or a set of WedsSport TC005s, which weigh in at 12.7 (I think), but cost about $1100. I'd much rather have a set of these; not too flashy, and still losing 10lbs per wheel. I still need a set of tires, and I don't like Mach III's selection, but this might be better anyway becuase I can always turn around and resell the rims if I don't like what I'm getting, or put them on a different car if I decide to get something else.

 

I'd go as lightweight as possible on stock looking stuff if that's what your looking for
Lighter seats, Wheels, wtc. Get the axleback exhaust, P&P, header, pulley, Piggy ECU, etc. it might get you in the low 15s but i don' think you'll get sub 15 without a major power adder.

Try to get rid of as much weight as you can without going barebones, Keeping it as luxurious as you want it. An LSD would help with traction...