After working on my motor mount i put everything back together. Batter
SRI and everything else. So i decided to start my car up and it wouldn't keep an idle. Now due to my Piggy Back i know that happens and after a couple REVS, its all good
So now it can idle fine. The Second i turn on my AC My car dies, so figure, driving in AZ with 103 degree with no AC is CRAZZZZZZZYYY so now when i drive i have to keep on the gas. SO i went and had my alternator and battery checked and everything was good. SO my only option is for you guys to help me out.

So why is my car dying when i turn the AC on...Now i did not try the AC when i connected my piggy back.

So my first guess is, there is a problem with my piggy. Now i knwo the piggy works for a fact. so any ideas?????????????????????????

Let me know PLease....

MyRoN

 

Sounds like, for some reason, the ECU isn't increasing the RPMs when the AC engages like it's supposed to. You could disconnect your piggy and see if that does anything, but that shouldn't affect it.

 

It should not affect it,
I even disconnected the ECU for about 10 minutes

I dunno im lost. and sure don't have the money to talk it to the Dealer.

 

OKay so here is what happens now. I start it up and it diles perfect for about 10 seconds and then it drops down and seems like its gasping for breath....
any ideas....

 

Let it gasp for air. It's during that time that the ECU will adjust the idle. If you had a datalogger, you could watch your "target idle speed" change when you turn on your AC. If the engine doesn't get very close to that target idle, the ECU tries adjusting for it.

 

If i let it idle, half the time, it stalls.

 

First check the batt. condition , check the voltage.
Check the engine grounds , maybe when you remove the motor mounts you mess
with one of them.

 

Battery is good, Alternator is good.

i'm like running out of options.

 

have you tried removing the piggyback? It doesn't matter if you don't think it's the piggy, that doesn't mean it isn't. I had to learn that lesson the hard way. I would check your map first, just to make sure it hasn't changed. If you have any cells that aren't right around 10 your car will run funny, or not at all as in your case. I can't think of any mods that would put you more than 1.0 away from 10 on the map.

Check your SRI and make sure your MAF is clean. If it's choking it very well may be choking!

it's possible, however unlikely, that you crimped something or severed an electrical line when you were working on installing the mounts. check under the car and around the engine bay for any lines that could have been in your way. A good way to do this is to start at one corner of the engine bay and follow everything in that corner until it ends or you can't see it, and then move to the next corner and repeat.

 

Now i'm a bit confused when you talking about cells that arent rigt around 10...
What does that mean.

I will check everything again. but now u got me thinking about my map..where would i find that

thanks

 

10 is the "zero" on the map, it translates to no adjustment to the MAF signal going to the ECU. If you have any values less than 9 or greater than 11 I would be very concerned. You have to have a laptop and a serial cable (or serial to usb if you have a newer laptop) to connect to the piggyback. You also need the R4 software that RRM sells with the piggyback.

 

yeah it sounds like a piggyback problem