Ok, I definitely screwed this one up fuggin aluminum head I tightened an oil pressure sensor down too much and cracked the head where the sensor mounts. It's what I get for getting impatient and in a hurry. I either have to buy a head, or have this welded to fix it. Tried JB-Weld as a temporary fix, but it looks like I will be out of Mivec for awhile. the good news is if I get a head, port, polish, and rebuild it within 8000 miles I can just add it to the labor for the timing belt the bad news is if I go over 3500 RPM's my car leaks oil What a dumbass.

any news on the valve seats migue? and didn't you need to get rid of a spare head and camshaft?

a list, please help me build it because this will be the second major project this year I undertake with no prior experience.

So far, mostly thanks to migueralliarts thread:

Intake Manifold gasket
head gasket
exhaust manifold gasket
valve stem guides
valve seats
head studs
exhaust manifold studs(might as well)

things to consider:
can we upgrade to a higher quality/stronger valve?
how about upgraded rods?

Since the camshaft should be included with the head, what is a good shop in the US I can send it to to have it reground? I am sure I don't have anything local to me, and I am sure some of you guys know better shops in your areas.

for anyone who isn't already aware: you have to take your time while working on your car. I cost myself a minimum of 400 here, mainly because I would rather build a head up than pay someone 100 to fix this one, but I wouldn't have to spend any if I had used my brain a little more the other night. also, aluminum, of any alloy, is very weak

 

PM me for more info D@N

 

cool man, pm one sent already

 

BUMMER MAN!! Sorry to hear this Dan!!!

FYI: Aluminum can be made stonger than steel, such as 6061 (ie; aircraft).. 7005 is spacecraft quality... when I was with ALCOA (Aluminum Company of America) we were building car frames for the Plymouth Prowler entirely out of aluminum... 30% stronger structurally on designed use, however it's more mallible. For instance, a head on crash would bend the frame instead of break it. Made it difficult for repair, but also softened the crash!

If I weren't reliant on my car as much, I'd have the head off already, and probably do what Migueralliart's doing.. Keep us updated on your progress. Your living up to your name!

Do you have a photo of the damage, or is the cam still at your pop's? Were you using a torque wrench, or was it just off-the-cuff?

 

no pics yet, I keep leaving my camera at my dads house. off-the-cuff. it never really got tight, or I would have stopped. it's definitely my fault, but I blame the damn aluminum head friggin sensors look tapered too, still not sure, but it looks like it.

cracked the head where the sensor screws into it. tried jbweld, three times three different ways, the first time worked the best but I wanted it better in hindsight, I shouldn't have even touched that sensor, or the rear sensor for that matter, because I found the perfect place at the oil filter. I even looked ALL OVER for another place to draw oil before I messed with it at all, I just looked from a different angle the last time.

 

bought the cylinder head and camshaft today for 240 shipped from TX. (land of steers and bretthejet )

I also bought the intake manifold from migueralliart today thanks man

Will be port matching and working on the parts I can reach with various die grinder and dremel tool attachments. I even have a flexible 2' extension for my dremel

I am also in the process of porting the turbo exhaust inlet and port matching the exhaust manifold to the manifold gasket.

 

Hey D@n no worries that should be in the mail by friday .... I hope this week I am not so busy @ work with ****ing Boeings hehehe LoL
Lame Airplanes I should be working with mitsubishi, in fact they are starting to build airplanes too dammn can you imagine an EVO airplane nice!!

 

Dont forget that Japan had some of the leading edge fighters during the war!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of...,_World_War_II

EDIT: Many of the engines WERE made by MITSUBISHI!

 

that sucks, hope you get her up and running soon.

 

 

I'm so glad I decided not to use a tee on that sensor . I probably would have had the same thing happen to me.

 

yeah, that sensor only gets oil over 3500 rpms anyway

did you see where I ended up getting my oil from Adam?

 

Dan, sorry to hear about your misfortune. I am also attempting to follow the cylinder head project steps, and have purchased a cylinder head. I really don't have any experience doing anything like this either, and I have some questions:

Were you
did you find any answers regarding upgraded valves or rods?


Here's the dumb one:

what part of the process were you involved in when you had this happen? Had you already ported your existing head and were reattaching it? Because I have purchased a second head, I plan on getting all the work to the head and camshaft done and then dropping it on, any tips to avoid your mishap while I go this route?

 

I was messing with the oil pressure sensors, I did not have the head off the car. It is drivable, and only leaks oil above 3500 rpm.

I have not received the head yet, and therefore don't have anything in hand to get specs for a vendor.

I have also looked around a little for cam places, and have not found a place capable on my own. migueralliart has a place for the head and cam, but the cam is not done yet, and it is for his NA application anyway. Web cams (http://www.webcamshafts.com/) has been suggested by a couple of different sources, though I have not contacted them yet.

The head is another story all together. I have purchased an intake manifold as well, and will be porting both as much as I can manage myself. I am port matching the exhaust manifold, it is tubular and trying to port it would just weaken the welds. I am also porting the turbo exhaust inlet. When I disassemble the head I will determine how much of the assembly I want to attempt myself, if any. I plan on having mitsu put the head on for me, since it will be in for a timing belt anyway in 7000 miles.

I am definitely doing ARP headstuds, and am looking into a thicker head gasket, which will both allow me to run a little more boost. Anything else I do to the head or parts, such as dry film lubricant or ceramic coating, is yet to be determined. that depends on how much this all ends up costing me.

I am kind of worried about the valves being pushed open from the amount of boost, but don't know the valve spring rates or those of aftermarket springs so my opinion is based on the fact that the car is NA and I am shooting for 15 psi max that's quite a bit of boost to put on a NA car.

with the cam, IM port, head port and polish, turbo port, arp headstuds, headgasket, 3" intake and exhaust piping, and 15 psi of boost I should be well into the 300WHP range.

I am mildly concerned about the bottem end, but think I will experience issues elsewhere before I hit that power level.

some of the other concerns I have are fuel delivery, the turbo, the maf, and plugs. I already have the evo 8 fuel rail, and a walbro is pretty cheap to get as are the tools to fab fuel lines. plugs aren't cheap, but it's a yes or no type thing I am considering going with the SMT-7, as it has a good deal of programmable inputs and outputs to emulate all kinds of sensors. I should be able to adjust the mivec switchover, tune for more power due to the expanded tuning maps available(timing, injector cycle, fuel.) It can log, control electronic boost controllers, run nos applications, pretty much anything. If the turbo doesn't cooperate for some reason, the would suck. it wouldn't be the end of the world though

sorry for the long post, it's been awhile since I updated everything for ya