Piggy back install RRM
Piggy back install RRM
hey,
got my RRM NA piggy back today, came in a huge azz box with a lil box inside it with the piggy and other stuff aswell.
another great product i have from RRM, tho when i took it for a spin there wasnt really a noticable difference, maybe need more time to learn, but one thing im looking forward to is better fuel economy.
relatively easy install, probably around the same level as a UDP install, and also coz im in australia i think a few things we around backwards? go figure.
you just have to follow the instructions carefully(i made a photo copy just in case, lol), and double/triple check your wires before you cut/splice any as there is no, and i mean NO room for error. you only get about 10cm of wire on the ECU side which is enough but had to filter out the ones you need amoung litterally 100 others.
how i did it was, you take the glovebox off, and undo the 3 bolts holding it in as said per RRM, but then it got confusing (maybe coz AU model)
but what i did was took off the sort of splash guard thing and shown in the picture underneth the footwell area

and then pushed the ECU down and let it go free, wire it up and test it before putting it back, then put it back together and voila

also, i didnt get my software disc, and also where do u connect a laptop to it? there seems to be no connections? do i need to open it up?
-Steven
got my RRM NA piggy back today, came in a huge azz box with a lil box inside it with the piggy and other stuff aswell.
another great product i have from RRM, tho when i took it for a spin there wasnt really a noticable difference, maybe need more time to learn, but one thing im looking forward to is better fuel economy.
relatively easy install, probably around the same level as a UDP install, and also coz im in australia i think a few things we around backwards? go figure.
you just have to follow the instructions carefully(i made a photo copy just in case, lol), and double/triple check your wires before you cut/splice any as there is no, and i mean NO room for error. you only get about 10cm of wire on the ECU side which is enough but had to filter out the ones you need amoung litterally 100 others.
how i did it was, you take the glovebox off, and undo the 3 bolts holding it in as said per RRM, but then it got confusing (maybe coz AU model)
but what i did was took off the sort of splash guard thing and shown in the picture underneth the footwell area

and then pushed the ECU down and let it go free, wire it up and test it before putting it back, then put it back together and voila

also, i didnt get my software disc, and also where do u connect a laptop to it? there seems to be no connections? do i need to open it up?
-Steven
^yeah, im not expecting a kick in the azz turbo/nos type difference,
just saying didnt feel much
is this the type of gain i should expect with headers back, the gain is there but not really noticeable?
just saying didnt feel much
is this the type of gain i should expect with headers back, the gain is there but not really noticeable?
somebody correct me if im wrong but i believe to get the best out of it you should have it dyno'd especially if you have mods and then have them tune it. you should notice a difference after that, it also will vary from car to car depending on the mods you have.
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you should have gotten the CD from RRM, they are including it with the piggyback now. I missed that question before, sorry about that. I would call Rob and let him know it was missing.
yes, you can take it to a dyno and have it tuned. they will put a wideband o2 sensor on it for you and run on the dyno. do some research on dynos before you have a car tuned on one though. buying a wideband and tuning the vehicle from a data log taken from real driving conditions is the most accurate way to tune the car.
yes, you can take it to a dyno and have it tuned. they will put a wideband o2 sensor on it for you and run on the dyno. do some research on dynos before you have a car tuned on one though. buying a wideband and tuning the vehicle from a data log taken from real driving conditions is the most accurate way to tune the car.
Don't be disheartened by the install steve, let the rrm ecu work its thing for a few days. The rrm ecu will respond much better with the header and any other bolt on's you put on after a tune!
2.25" is an awesome choice for your setup.
Once you get a tune on the RRM ECU, you'll expect the car to be running nice across the whole rev-range due to a linear power curve depending on your tune.
With the headers you will notice a noticeable increase. Especially the way at mid-top end as you already know. Also, when you rev the engine, you'll hear this deep-sucking sound.
As for the cd, ask Rob anyway!
Once you get a tune on the RRM ECU, you'll expect the car to be running nice across the whole rev-range due to a linear power curve depending on your tune.
With the headers you will notice a noticeable increase. Especially the way at mid-top end as you already know. Also, when you rev the engine, you'll hear this deep-sucking sound.
As for the cd, ask Rob anyway!
ok emailed rob and they are gonna fix the cd up for me
already noticing a difference, much smoother thru the rev range and also picks up speed alot quicker - wasnt watching speedo and ended up in the 110 range on a 70 road eeeeeepppppp, jumped on the brakes lol
also ive pretty much maintained similar driving style, and the fuel needle hasnt dropped as much, which is always good, but ill update after i do a few tanks
already noticing a difference, much smoother thru the rev range and also picks up speed alot quicker - wasnt watching speedo and ended up in the 110 range on a 70 road eeeeeepppppp, jumped on the brakes lol
also ive pretty much maintained similar driving style, and the fuel needle hasnt dropped as much, which is always good, but ill update after i do a few tanks



