View Poll Results: should i take the car to another shop or try to do this my damn self?
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clucth master cylinder anyone!!!
clucth master cylinder anyone!!!
So i was driving to work one sunday and i pulled up to a light and pressed the clutch to down shift and i noticed that the pressure in the clutch didnt come back so at that point i was like WTF! and so i gave it a few pumps and the pressure came back so i kept driving and all the way to work the pressure in the clucth would go and come. Well i made it to work and i made it back home but as soon as i got home i lost all pressure and it didnt come back.
So this was sunday and monday the car sat in the drive way, then tuesday it got towed to the dealership where they gave me the runaround and said that it was the clutch master cylinder and that they couldnt get the part in till about 2 weeks! Well i had no choice but to leave the car there and the next day i called every auto shop, checked every website and nothing no one carried the part. So i made a last effort and called this other mitsu dealership and they said that there was one CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER IN UTAH THAT they could order for me and possibly arrive in texas in 3 days. So i paid an extra $60.00 to have them so called "over night" the part but i still ended up waiting like a week.
So at that point i was getting the part through one mitsu dealer while my car was at another who said that it would have taken them 2 weeks to get the same part, so when the part finally came i was at work at the time so i had a friend of mine pick it up for me and when i got outta work i had a tow truck meet me at the dealership where my car was and i totally surprised that service ******* who really seemed not to care about my situation!
Well i walked into his office and he was like whats up and i said well im here to get my car, he says what do u mean? i say i got the part and im here to get my car, im gona have someone else put it on for me. so hes totally freaked out for once the customer actually has control over the situation! so he says well how the hell did u pull that one off and i told him that i spent more time looking and calling around for the part at work than i did actually work. So he walks me in to the parts managers office and says " how is it that an outsider was able to get the part in faster than a dealership? The damn manager didnt even have an answer, he was like well he probably called the mitsu company direct, i was like dude u have no clue!
Well as u all know that one way or another the dealership is gona rip you off!!! they didnt even do a damn thing to my car but yet he was still able to charge me $45.00 for labor that they didnt even put a finger on my car! First he told me that it was for check out and then he said that it was for the technicans time on the car.
Well i had my car towed to my friends dads house and from there it was towed to his friends shop.well he put the part on but i dont think that he put it on right, cuz its hard to get into gears sometimes. And sometimes when im parked i cant get into reverse. SO NOW I NEED SOME HELP ON WHAT TO DO?!!! ANYONE PLEASE!!!!
So this was sunday and monday the car sat in the drive way, then tuesday it got towed to the dealership where they gave me the runaround and said that it was the clutch master cylinder and that they couldnt get the part in till about 2 weeks! Well i had no choice but to leave the car there and the next day i called every auto shop, checked every website and nothing no one carried the part. So i made a last effort and called this other mitsu dealership and they said that there was one CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER IN UTAH THAT they could order for me and possibly arrive in texas in 3 days. So i paid an extra $60.00 to have them so called "over night" the part but i still ended up waiting like a week.
So at that point i was getting the part through one mitsu dealer while my car was at another who said that it would have taken them 2 weeks to get the same part, so when the part finally came i was at work at the time so i had a friend of mine pick it up for me and when i got outta work i had a tow truck meet me at the dealership where my car was and i totally surprised that service ******* who really seemed not to care about my situation!
Well i walked into his office and he was like whats up and i said well im here to get my car, he says what do u mean? i say i got the part and im here to get my car, im gona have someone else put it on for me. so hes totally freaked out for once the customer actually has control over the situation! so he says well how the hell did u pull that one off and i told him that i spent more time looking and calling around for the part at work than i did actually work. So he walks me in to the parts managers office and says " how is it that an outsider was able to get the part in faster than a dealership? The damn manager didnt even have an answer, he was like well he probably called the mitsu company direct, i was like dude u have no clue!
Well as u all know that one way or another the dealership is gona rip you off!!! they didnt even do a damn thing to my car but yet he was still able to charge me $45.00 for labor that they didnt even put a finger on my car! First he told me that it was for check out and then he said that it was for the technicans time on the car.
Well i had my car towed to my friends dads house and from there it was towed to his friends shop.well he put the part on but i dont think that he put it on right, cuz its hard to get into gears sometimes. And sometimes when im parked i cant get into reverse. SO NOW I NEED SOME HELP ON WHAT TO DO?!!! ANYONE PLEASE!!!!
Last edited by Myszkewicz; Sep 8, 2007 at 05:05 AM.
I stopped reading about halfway through. Using paragraphs would be helpful to making that readable. Dealerships don't keep anything on hand except for super common parts (brakes, wiper blades, oil filters, etc.) It's quite normal for it to take a week+ for stuff to arrive.
Did read the last sentence, though. You probably need to rebleed the clutchline.
Did read the last sentence, though. You probably need to rebleed the clutchline.
Mine blew out about 2 months ago... same symptoms as yours. It only took RRM 1-day to get my part! 
Anyway, they said it was a major b!tch to replace due to it's placement against the firewall. I don't have the time or patience for stuff like that, and have no problem paying a shop to do it for me.
I forgot what my point was!!! Oh yeah... as long as the new cylinder is functioning correctly it could only be either air bubbles in your clutchline (most likely) or you need to re-adjust your clutch pedal (doubtful, but worth looking into).
I've read many threads on here over the years and it seems to be more difficult than usual to get all the air out of the lines. Follow Otter's advice and get two people, preferably one who knows what he's doing, and bleed the lines again.

Anyway, they said it was a major b!tch to replace due to it's placement against the firewall. I don't have the time or patience for stuff like that, and have no problem paying a shop to do it for me.
I forgot what my point was!!! Oh yeah... as long as the new cylinder is functioning correctly it could only be either air bubbles in your clutchline (most likely) or you need to re-adjust your clutch pedal (doubtful, but worth looking into).
I've read many threads on here over the years and it seems to be more difficult than usual to get all the air out of the lines. Follow Otter's advice and get two people, preferably one who knows what he's doing, and bleed the lines again.
Original post sanitized. I understand you're upset, but if you keep on like that, you won't last long here.
I wonder if the "clutch restrictor" is trapping air? It was one of the first things I removed from my car, and I've never had problems bleeding air out of my clutch line, even when I replaced the upper half of the line.
I wonder if the "clutch restrictor" is trapping air? It was one of the first things I removed from my car, and I've never had problems bleeding air out of my clutch line, even when I replaced the upper half of the line.
Hey man, that sucks about your clutch...
If you are a semi-mechanical person, you can pull off bleeding your clutch by yourself with a bleeder. They sell clutch / brake bleeders for around 40 dollars. Though I haven't done it on a RA / Lancer, I have a feeling it's setup the same. There is either a bleeder (like your brakes) on the master or slave cylinder. You open up the Brake Fluid Resevoir and top it off. Go down and hook up your brake bleeder to the bleeder valve. Open it (usually a 10mm or 8mm wrench). Then start pumping. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT PUMP OUT TOO MUCH FLUID OUT OF THE RESEVOIR OR YOU WILL HAVE TO START OVER!. Just keep pumping and filling until NO MORE air bubbles come through the lines.
If this doesn't help you will have to look into your slave cylinder and throwout bearing. These go deeper into the clutch and on most newer vehicles means pulling the clutch apart. But definitely bleed the bastard first. It's hard as hell to bleed a clutch sometimes.
Also you mind sharing how you got the part so quickly?
If you are a semi-mechanical person, you can pull off bleeding your clutch by yourself with a bleeder. They sell clutch / brake bleeders for around 40 dollars. Though I haven't done it on a RA / Lancer, I have a feeling it's setup the same. There is either a bleeder (like your brakes) on the master or slave cylinder. You open up the Brake Fluid Resevoir and top it off. Go down and hook up your brake bleeder to the bleeder valve. Open it (usually a 10mm or 8mm wrench). Then start pumping. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT PUMP OUT TOO MUCH FLUID OUT OF THE RESEVOIR OR YOU WILL HAVE TO START OVER!. Just keep pumping and filling until NO MORE air bubbles come through the lines.
If this doesn't help you will have to look into your slave cylinder and throwout bearing. These go deeper into the clutch and on most newer vehicles means pulling the clutch apart. But definitely bleed the bastard first. It's hard as hell to bleed a clutch sometimes.
Also you mind sharing how you got the part so quickly?
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... Oh well here goes
Start by loosening the fitting that goes from the master's line to the slave... It should look kind of redish in color, remember, just make it loose so it wont become a trouble later, leave it on.
Climb into the car and remove the clutch pedal assembly, there are like to blots on the master that you need to remove in order to take the pedal out. With the pedal out, youll see that the master is mounted in a circular, brass plate, in place with a couple of nuts. Take the plate out, and the master dangles. Go outside, in the engine bay, remove the first pin that hold the line in place, so it dangles more and you can pull it from the inside of the car. Get in the car again, pull the line in a little and watch out for the sharp edges of the firewall and start taking out the red bolt I mentioned earlier(I aint really red, it just has some red loctite on it).......
...CAUTION, as you take the red bolt out, notice that there are 2 thin washers, be careful not to drop them behind the carpet, unless you want to undress the car to find a washer. Keep the 2 washer in a safe place cuz they get lost real easily
Now replace the master...BUT BEFORE you do reverse engineering to get it in, measure if the adjustment is the same, that will save you doing it later. See that the little prong where the pin goes is at the same length the stock one had. Now do the steps in reverse and pretty much you got it...
The hard part come in bleeding the clutch, You'll have to bleed it with the fitting in the master AND the clutch cylinder... start with the master's one first, once you get fluid to that, start doing both, alternating between masters and slave
Be sure to ask a buddy with good patience, gets a bit of pumping to get it going
If I missed a step or soemthing someone shed some light...I just came out work and my mind is a bit weary
Start by loosening the fitting that goes from the master's line to the slave... It should look kind of redish in color, remember, just make it loose so it wont become a trouble later, leave it on.
Climb into the car and remove the clutch pedal assembly, there are like to blots on the master that you need to remove in order to take the pedal out. With the pedal out, youll see that the master is mounted in a circular, brass plate, in place with a couple of nuts. Take the plate out, and the master dangles. Go outside, in the engine bay, remove the first pin that hold the line in place, so it dangles more and you can pull it from the inside of the car. Get in the car again, pull the line in a little and watch out for the sharp edges of the firewall and start taking out the red bolt I mentioned earlier(I aint really red, it just has some red loctite on it).......
...CAUTION, as you take the red bolt out, notice that there are 2 thin washers, be careful not to drop them behind the carpet, unless you want to undress the car to find a washer. Keep the 2 washer in a safe place cuz they get lost real easily
Now replace the master...BUT BEFORE you do reverse engineering to get it in, measure if the adjustment is the same, that will save you doing it later. See that the little prong where the pin goes is at the same length the stock one had. Now do the steps in reverse and pretty much you got it...
The hard part come in bleeding the clutch, You'll have to bleed it with the fitting in the master AND the clutch cylinder... start with the master's one first, once you get fluid to that, start doing both, alternating between masters and slave
Be sure to ask a buddy with good patience, gets a bit of pumping to get it going
If I missed a step or soemthing someone shed some light...I just came out work and my mind is a bit weary
Last edited by KreepaEvoX; Sep 8, 2007 at 02:50 PM. Reason: grammar
well looks like mines went out this morning. Since its a sunday there aren't any places to turn to so I'ma have to wait. The only problem is I'm due to drive the car to Montreal Canada (from boston, ma) this thursday so I hope I can overnight the part one time and get it installed. It'll also give me a reason to replace that upper clutch cable and pull out the restrictor valve.
umm make sure urs didnt do what mine did there are 2 chamebers in the rez one that draws for the clutch and one fro brakes my clutch secton became empty do to a bad slave gasket ( long story but gained info) i put the insides of a b serires civic clutch slave into it to fix that beign it was a sunday or saterday, ether way if this is ur problem fix that first then fill the rez FULL FULL and youll see were the bubbles come from and start to fill the empty part...... hope that helps there is a thred i made on here i think in the general section on the whole process ended up costing like 16bucks causei had to but the whole clutch slave to get the insides cause they didnt have the slave kit.
here ya go found it for ya just in case.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=348941'
lol just noticed u made a post in there to so you should be familier with it already!
here ya go found it for ya just in case.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=348941'
lol just noticed u made a post in there to so you should be familier with it already!
Last edited by RalliDew; Jul 13, 2008 at 11:39 AM.
yea i read that thread, I think what I'm going to do is just replace the unit as a whole with an oem part. I know the leak is near the gasket, here are some photo's of the damage.


I can't quite tell where its leaking, but I'm thinking it leaking from the seal around the plate with the 4 bolts on it.


I can't quite tell where its leaking, but I'm thinking it leaking from the seal around the plate with the 4 bolts on it.
umm make sure urs didnt do what mine did there are 2 chamebers in the rez one that draws for the clutch and one fro brakes my clutch secton became empty do to a bad slave gasket ( long story but gained info) i put the insides of a b serires civic clutch slave into it to fix that beign it was a sunday or saterday, ether way if this is ur problem fix that first then fill the rez FULL FULL and youll see were the bubbles come from and start to fill the empty part...... hope that helps there is a thred i made on here i think in the general section on the whole process ended up costing like 16bucks causei had to but the whole clutch slave to get the insides cause they didnt have the slave kit.
here ya go found it for ya just in case.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=348941'
lol just noticed u made a post in there to so you should be familier with it already!
here ya go found it for ya just in case.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=348941'
lol just noticed u made a post in there to so you should be familier with it already!
Bruce988jl, I do not envy you the job of having to swap out your master cylinder. It's in a real tight spot. Yours looks like it's leaking past the seals inside it. Is there fluid running down the firewall inside the car?
I had to try three or four times to get the banjo bolt and both copper crush washers on when I changed my upper hydraulic line. Either the inner washer would fall off, or I'd drop the whole mess trying to get my hand in that tiny spot. I think I eventually got it by using a very long pair of needle nose pliers to get it down into place, and then sneaking my hand in there to start tightening it.
I had to try three or four times to get the banjo bolt and both copper crush washers on when I changed my upper hydraulic line. Either the inner washer would fall off, or I'd drop the whole mess trying to get my hand in that tiny spot. I think I eventually got it by using a very long pair of needle nose pliers to get it down into place, and then sneaking my hand in there to start tightening it.
Bruce988jl, I do not envy you the job of having to swap out your master cylinder. It's in a real tight spot. Yours looks like it's leaking past the seals inside it. Is there fluid running down the firewall inside the car?
I had to try three or four times to get the banjo bolt and both copper crush washers on when I changed my upper hydraulic line. Either the inner washer would fall off, or I'd drop the whole mess trying to get my hand in that tiny spot. I think I eventually got it by using a very long pair of needle nose pliers to get it down into place, and then sneaking my hand in there to start tightening it.
I had to try three or four times to get the banjo bolt and both copper crush washers on when I changed my upper hydraulic line. Either the inner washer would fall off, or I'd drop the whole mess trying to get my hand in that tiny spot. I think I eventually got it by using a very long pair of needle nose pliers to get it down into place, and then sneaking my hand in there to start tightening it.
















