is running more amps than stock threw an alternator bad for the electrical system?

 

Window motors use a lot of power.

Stock alternators usually have power to spare, however, if you do exceed the capacity of the stock alternator, then yes, that's bad. You'll end up prematurely killing the alternator.

 

I've noticed that my lights dim if I have my headlights, foglights, rear defogger, and HVAC fan on as I'm pulling up to a stop sign.

I'm ready for winter to be over.

 

i ment is having a 120amp or 130amp alternator bad for the vehicle electrical system? being the stock alternator is 110amp

 

the potential output is not necessarily the output.

 

Exactly. The alternator's regulator only puts out enough power to meet the demand and maintain the required 14.4 volts.

 

uh huh, so how do i know what i need to upgrade to alternator to?

 

Find yourself a reputable alternator shop, or audio shop, who can discuss it with you and help you out.

 

well of course, but i'd hate to have them say well it'll get this much and have it not be enuf.. but i'm sure they could figure it out...

but more power from the alternator isn't bad for the rest of the vehicles electrical system?

 

You might've missed that post.

Also, you probably don't need that much more power, since your system isn't that big. Chances are the place will just build it to get as much power as they safely can. IIRC, ours can put out as much as 180 amps when rebuilt.

 

its not big now,

but i'm gettin more powerfull subs soon and the draw will be around 1500-2000 RMS for just the subs

and thinkin about droping one of those train horn kits in lol...

 

you have to add the amperages for all the devices and get an alternator that exceeds that sum. since you can't possibly know the current draw of the entire car I would say mitsu probably built around a 10% margin into the alternator, and make sure you give yourself 10% too.

that means with your ~100amp alternator your current draw would be around 80 amps. your new amplifier draws around 20 amps so now you need an alternator with an output of 120amps minimum to maintain ~10% margin with your new equipment. **figures are for reference only.

EDIT: it would make sense that the alternator can only produce so much power until it is turning at peak efficiency, just like a turbo. if you are running the UDP it brings your effective RPM range down, so make sure you size the pulley appropriately when you have it rebuilt

wattage won't make a difference, btw, it's the current draw (amperage) that makes the difference. different classes of amps have different power consumptions. class D uses much more power than class A for instance, the internal circuitry is designed around the expected frequency range the amp will have to work with.

 

so by amp draw, basically add up the fuses that are in each?

 

no, your devices are power rated to consume so much power under normal operating conditions, or peak rated. you fuse are always higher than your normal rating or they would blow when you run your devices. your 10 amp radio fuse is protecting a radio that consumes only 5 amps, for instance. over 10 amps and the radio could be damaged so they put the fuse at 10 amps. this is all a generalization, but it will suffice to accomplish your goal. if you decide to rewire your entire car then you need to know more information about the electronics.

 

indeed, not really looking to rewire... just looking for a headlight pulse fix