HELP! Broken head bolt
HELP! Broken head bolt
I actually broke a valve cover bolt a while back, but it was while reinstalling the valve cover, so I put off fixing it til later. Welp... its later
I ended up over torquing it and snapped the extractor right off the bolt. Unfortunately, it didn't spat clean at the top. Instead, the shaft snapped about 1/2 way down the threads, so I cant clamp on the shaft with a vice and turn it out
I know you can use left-hand twists and a center punch to try and get it out, but the break isnt very clean, and I don't think it'll be easy to get a good center punch to start. I'll have to buy the left-hand twist kit to try this, but thats something I should have anyway, so no big deal.
For the valve cover bolts, would a forced extraction be easier when the engine is hot. I know this will cause the aluminum valv cover to expand, but what will it do to the bolt?
The metal used in the valve cover bolts seems pretty soft. I'd have to be pretty artistic about it, but do you think its possible to use a small drill bit or even a dremel to work away at the bolt shaft til it basically crumbles, then just suck the fragments out, without hurting the threads?
I'd really like to avoid re-drilling and tapping!
I ended up over torquing it and snapped the extractor right off the bolt. Unfortunately, it didn't spat clean at the top. Instead, the shaft snapped about 1/2 way down the threads, so I cant clamp on the shaft with a vice and turn it out

I know you can use left-hand twists and a center punch to try and get it out, but the break isnt very clean, and I don't think it'll be easy to get a good center punch to start. I'll have to buy the left-hand twist kit to try this, but thats something I should have anyway, so no big deal.
For the valve cover bolts, would a forced extraction be easier when the engine is hot. I know this will cause the aluminum valv cover to expand, but what will it do to the bolt?
The metal used in the valve cover bolts seems pretty soft. I'd have to be pretty artistic about it, but do you think its possible to use a small drill bit or even a dremel to work away at the bolt shaft til it basically crumbles, then just suck the fragments out, without hurting the threads?
I'd really like to avoid re-drilling and tapping!
Last edited by blk-majik; Feb 21, 2008 at 08:29 AM.
Wait, you mean a valve cover bolt, right? That's a helluva lot different than a head bolt. I've broken one of these off myself. What worked for me is to drill through the center of the bolt with a very small carbide bit, then use an extractor (left hand twist) to get it out. Depending on which one you broke, it'll be tricky to get in there. If you need to, soak the thing in PB Blaster for a couple hours, too, to loosen it up.
yea, valve cover. not idea why i said head cover, big difference!. this is what i get for posting as I am rolling out of bed 
I'll give it a shot. Worst case, I'll try to be a JB weld artist and see if I can attacch a small rod to get some leverage on
btw, its the rear center one =/ Oddly enough, I was actually using a torque wrench when it broke, and it read about 6lbs at the time. ugh

I'll give it a shot. Worst case, I'll try to be a JB weld artist and see if I can attacch a small rod to get some leverage on
btw, its the rear center one =/ Oddly enough, I was actually using a torque wrench when it broke, and it read about 6lbs at the time. ugh
damn man, never thought those bolts would be that weak
extractor kit is the best solution, won't damage threads (shouldn't.) I just tighten until I see the gasket get a little pressure on it, maybe a good method for you from now on
extractor kit is the best solution, won't damage threads (shouldn't.) I just tighten until I see the gasket get a little pressure on it, maybe a good method for you from now on








IIRC, the service manual calls for those to be tightened to around 8-ish ft/lbs, but they break long before that.

