according to that code, the throttle actuator or it's circuit has gone bad.
the 04-06 ralliarts have electronic throttles, so the throttle pedal connects to a sensor which detects how much throttle is being applied, and then sends a signal to the actuator motor on the throttle body to open up the throttle a certain amount.

the reason why you have to floor it to get it moving is because the throttle plate isn't opening as much as it should when the pedal is floored

I think the reason why when you turn everything off for 5 minutes and then turn it back on again is because the ECU goes in to open loop mode (where is uses a pre-loaded fuel map meant to run the car when the oxygen sensors are too cold to operate correctly) but when the oxygen sensors are heated up to the proper operating temperature, the ECU kicks in to closed loop which uses the oxygen sensor to detect the Air Fuel Ratio and adjusts the amount of fuel injected as needed.

so what I am thinking is that is may very well be your piggyback. check the connections to the piggyback and ecu harness, and then flash your piggyback with the stock map and see where it goes from there. it may be a combination of things where your AFR is messed along with a malfunctioning throttle

good luck!

 

did you ever resolve your problem?

edit:moved to next post

 

I have another code, p0222"Throttle position sensor (sub) circuit low input", with your p0638"Throttle actuator control motor circuit range/performance problem". The only thing I have not looked at is the wiring, will do that tomorrow. similar symptoms as well. this time the car died, and would not start for a few minutes afterward. I reset the ECU to try and get it home, the car started and died after a short time. after dicking around with it for a few minutes I was able to drive home, ~2-3 miles. I've previously had codes p0106"Manifold absolute pressure circuit range/performance problem"and p2138"Accelerator pedal position sensor (main and sub) range/performance problem", which are diagnostically related, and was waiting to try Otter's cruise control test to find out for sure. connector and harness look great, and I tend to wash the engine bay with a soapy brush and low pressure water

APP sensor:
terminal 1 grounded ~1.9 ohms
pins 1,2 4.27ohms
7,8 4.12ohms
2,3 0% 3.82ohms 100% .23ohms
6,8 0% 3.75ohms 100% .26ohms

TPS sensor:
terminal 3 grounded ~1.8ohms
at garage temperature pins 1,2 resistance is 2.4ohms

all within range still intermittent as far as I am concerned, although I'm afraid to drive it now today's occurrence may have been induced by a 20-30 second high rpm, high load, high heat condition prior to the symptoms. not the case on previous occurrences. throttle plate seems to move fine, both with my hand and with the accelerator pedal.

 

Sounds like some mice moved in From what you describe, seems almost like something in the TB went bad, the CC thing should either eliminate that or lead you in that direction.

 

I replaced the throttle position sensor and nothing was fixed. So I decided to drive around for a while and shift below 3500 rpm and car worked fine so i was thinking it is something with the mivec. That is as far as I have gotten

 

yeah, but I don't want to break down on the side of the road I guess I will have to though, or just replace both.

I know it's not that thanks for your reply though

 

If you end up replacing parts to see if it fixes it, I'd definitely do the APP first, since it's a part that seems to break for a lot of people, whereas I haven't heard of a TB failing yet.

 

mitsu failed on the electric TB imo thats the dumbest thing ever and sooo pointless cause they still need a Throttle cable to get the TB motor to even work... , hope u get u car fixed its proly somthing dumb...

 

10-4, I really think it's the APP but after yesterdays surprise I'm less convinced. I'm gonna drive it on Saturday, hopefully I can make it somewhere safe again if it decides to **** with me...

 

IMO, it's a great design. It allows the ECU to override user input (to save the engine if something goes wrong) and it's the reason why the car has such smooth cruise control, which I use nearly daily.

 

it has it's positives and negatives. ideally it is the better system for power and safety. this is not an ideal world.

 

of course, car is driving fine now. no related DTC's, just the o2 sensor heater(I don't keep the "home made" heater plugged in) code I've had since last year. I hate doing it but I will just have to drive it until it happens again I guess. I hate electronics...

 

Ditto
My car hasn't had a single problem since i got her back from the body shop.

 

Wile thats so true otter somthing as simple as pushing the pedal to open the buttlerfly has been botched into one more electronic thing to break and when it does the rest of the car is usless. but yes i love my Cruise Control.

 

have to wait and see what happens next, I guess. This is a pretty good thread on here with some links to purchase the APP. You can get the part number in this thread too. I found the throttle body/TPS for 600 something on one of the sites in that thread. I sure hope the APP is bad if I have a choice