Over the years I've practically tested 50 different intakes on about as many cars. Some do have a legit power gain over others. Don't just look at peak horsepower as some will gain more torque than others which on a race car can be helpful. Take the cheapest crappiest one and compared to the best and most expensive you probably have a few peak hp and a few ft/lb of torque.

Also, cold air or short ram does not typically make a difference since at 50mph you don't really have any hot under the hood air. Beware of intakes that change the diameter of the mass air because they tend to progressively run your car leaner and leaner as you add more mods.

-Michael

 

You're right, at least a previous run on the dyno is needed to have a baseline to compare to the newer run but doesn't 20hp sound right to you with those bolts on?

 

I don't remember the exact numbers but we managed to get a really healthy gain with a piggyback, cam, intake and exhaust. I posted dyno sheets about a year ago. 176whp rings a bell but I am becoming senile in my old age and that may not be the correct number.

-Michael

 

What kind of whp would you expect with an sri, header/downpipe, exhaust, udp, piggy all from RRM then?

 

raikiri get a CAI, SRI sucks and i would recomend a 2.5 inch exaust.

 

I have an auto and my exhaust is already 2.5 IIRC

 

I've been browsing CAI's for the past few days now and I'm stuck between the Fujita CAI and Injen's CAI. Are there any major differences between them besides the price? I've found a Fujita CAI on ebay for pretty cheap.

 

it's a pipe with a couple bends The cone will make the most difference in terms of performance. Other than that, look at what seems to have the strongest mounting points and best construction.

I've had an RRM intake on my car since early 2004, so I guess it's pretty good

Don't worry to much about comparing dynos. The variances between different dynos, smoothing filters, locations, baselines etc is greater than the difference between any two intakes.